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I purchased a Homescape house in Cary about 2 years ago. We now have 2 windows that are leaking below them badly. I called the builder several times and after about 2 weeks, the builder finally got Builders First Source(the installer) to come out and look at it. They were able to reproduce the water leak but said it wasn't the windows that were leaking. They didn't explain what the cause was. They said they would notify the builder.
My builder, Homescape, came and looked at them and said that every year I need to re-caulk every joint between my Hardiplank siding boards. This seemed crazy as they would need re-painted every time as well. I called Hardiplank and they said this is definitely not true and usually the flashing is the problem. I called a hardiplank installer to inspect and he informed me that the flashing installed is just bent sheet metal at a 90 degree angle over the window trim. He said there is supposed to a pvc material that is angled to deflect the water over the window. He said all of the flashing is wrong. He said the caulking is not the problem between the joints. He said every home in America would leak if those seams were the problem.
I've called the builder back to figure out what to do next but they won't return my calls. I have a NC six year warranty but apparently that only covers masonry or framing. Ughh!
Can anyone suggest what I should do next? Who can I call for help? Can the flashing issue be fixed with caulking? I've had a few painters out that seem to think so. I'm lost for what my next step should be. I never expected to get this kind of service from my builder though either.
I hope you had a buyer's agent! If so, call that agent. Builders hate it when we call to complain!
Hardi plank does recommend that you use that flashing, as you were told. If no flashing was used, then the butt joints need to be caulked. I run into this alot with my home inspector. Did you get the home inspected before closing? If so, the inspector should have noted this and if you did, I'd call him and ask him his opinion.
In the past, I have had homes inspected that were 3 years old and if the builder didn't do something that they SHOULD have done, the builder will come back, at no charge, and do the repairs. I have had Centex, KB Homes and Pulte all do this.
Vicki
Quote:
Originally Posted by epastoor
I purchased a Homescape house in Cary about 2 years ago. We now have 2 windows that are leaking below them badly. I called the builder several times and after about 2 weeks, the builder finally got Builders First Source(the installer) to come out and look at it. They were able to reproduce the water leak but said it wasn't the windows that were leaking. They didn't explain what the cause was. They said they would notify the builder.
My builder, Homescape, came and looked at them and said that every year I need to re-caulk every joint between my Hardiplank siding boards. This seemed crazy as they would need re-painted every time as well. I called Hardiplank and they said this is definitely not true and usually the flashing is the problem. I called a hardiplank installer to inspect and he informed me that the flashing installed is just bent sheet metal at a 90 degree angle over the window trim. He said there is supposed to a pvc material that is angled to deflect the water over the window. He said all of the flashing is wrong. He said the caulking is not the problem between the joints. He said every home in America would leak if those seams were the problem.
I've called the builder back to figure out what to do next but they won't return my calls. I have a NC six year warranty but apparently that only covers masonry or framing. Ughh!
Can anyone suggest what I should do next? Who can I call for help? Can the flashing issue be fixed with caulking? I've had a few painters out that seem to think so. I'm lost for what my next step should be. I never expected to get this kind of service from my builder though either.
The builder probably had a 1 year warranty on the home...and depending on how they are doing they may not be very responsive.
So you are probably stuck between 2 different sub contractors blaming each other (window installer and siding installer).
If Builder First Source installed the windows, they really should have used a plastic sticky membrane flashing around the edges of where the window meets the sheathing. So, while they are saying the window is working fine (for which they are responsible for the manufactorer warranty) the installation is really to blame.
Then the siding company should have installed a pvc drip edge over the top of the window...all though not all track builders use drip edges.
There are varing levels of flashing around windows...so while it is easy for one guy to say 'this is all wrong' the fact is that different builders do it differently. However, given your situation it sounds like there was something done wrong.
I think you will probably get the run around, so I would call a good handyman or small siding repair company and have them fix the 2 windows before you get wood rot or mold. Just hope the others hold up!
Without seeing it it is hard to know for sure, but if they left something recommended out and it is causing a problem now, that is a latent defect and the builder should fix it.
If they really will not, there is a homeowners recovery fund that the contractors licensing board administers and you might get some help from that. North Carolina Licensing Board for General Contractors . Even threatening to go to them should get the builder to shape up.
ALso, if this is something left out it is likely to be every window, so I would ask them to have the window rep and the Hardie rep there at the same time to inspect a few and if it is found to be a problem, I would insist they fix all the windows or give you a certain amount of money to cover future repairs.
No caulking is recommended at butt joints, although it is very common here.
And with a good weather wrap installation under the siding, a little water should shed, not find its way into the house.
Rather than goober it up, I would be tempted to tear it apart.
Agree 100%, do not caulk the butt-joints, that is a temporary solution at best. You really need to find out where the water is going in (probably missing or improperly installed flashing). If you can't get satisfaction from your builder, I bet you can find someone to fix this for you without too much expense.
I am not familar with Homescape. Not that I should be, but they don't seem to be a longtime local co(?). Unless they used to go by another name. I am leery of companies that do not have a long-time local presence. This isn't a gt but you'd hope they care about their reputation in the community.
If I read your post correctly, you said that you've had the home for approx 2 yrs and that water leaks in under the window? I'm sorry, but I find this outrageous! New homes are pricey here, I'd certainly expect to NOT have this kind of problem after just 2 yrs.
It looks like you've rec'd some great advice here from folks in the know - I am not But, I would consider bringing in the WTVD Troubleshooter. I know it sounds hokey, but they are effective.
If you can document that you've tried to resolve this as noted above, I would contact the builder one last time but do so in writing outlining your issues and asking for a response by a specific, reasonable date. if they don't respond, I'd then go to the Troubleshooter to see if you can shame them into taking ownership. You might consider complaining to the BBB is they are a member agency.
You have been misinformed.
1) A moisture protection barrier (like TyVek) is now required on ALL structures with siding. This prevents water intrusion. 2) This membrane MUST be taped using the approved tape (sold under the TyVek brand and others) at all seams of the house wrap and at all corner boards and trim pieces. 3) An inspection is then required when all window, door, and other penetration flashing has been installed prior to the installation of the siding. 4) In our climate, Hardie recommends butt joint flashing (a small piece of roofing felt) behind EACH butt joint of the siding and minimal siding contact at butt joints (leaving an expansion gap about the width of a sawblade). 5) On 9 out of 10 siding projects, we apply a 60 year 100% acrylic sealant (about $3 per tube) to siding butt joints. An occasional customer insists that the butt joints not be caulked. We have them sign a release, and leave these joints open against our recommendation. (Re-caulking every year is not required with a quality sealant.)
Call the builder, who MUST be a licensed general contractor, and insist that THEY solve this problem. You don't want to talk to any subs or manufacturer's reps. As licensed contractors, we are responsible for EVERYTHING that is done on any contracted project regardless of who was hired to perform the work.
Quality and craftsmanship have not gone out of style; its just that some builders have gone out of business due to a slowed economy and poor craftsmanship.
You have been misinformed.
1) A moisture protection barrier (like TyVek) is now required on ALL structures with siding. This prevents water intrusion. 2) This membrane MUST be taped using the approved tape (sold under the TyVek brand and others) at all seams of the house wrap and at all corner boards and trim pieces. 3) An inspection is then required when all window, door, and other penetration flashing has been installed prior to the installation of the siding. 4) In our climate, Hardie recommends butt joint flashing (a small piece of roofing felt) behind EACH butt joint of the siding and minimal siding contact at butt joints (leaving an expansion gap about the width of a sawblade). 5) On 9 out of 10 siding projects, we apply a 60 year 100% acrylic sealant (about $3 per tube) to siding butt joints. An occasional customer insists that the butt joints not be caulked. We have them sign a release, and leave these joints open against our recommendation. (Re-caulking every year is not required with a quality sealant.)
Call the builder, who MUST be a licensed general contractor, and insist that THEY solve this problem. You don't want to talk to any subs or manufacturer's reps. As licensed contractors, we are responsible for EVERYTHING that is done on any contracted project regardless of who was hired to perform the work.
Quality and craftsmanship have not gone out of style; its just that some builders have gone out of business due to a slowed economy and poor craftsmanship.
So, you caulk despite the manufacturer's instructions to not caulk?
Is that a building code requirement that overrides the design instructions?
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But, I would consider bringing in the WTVD Troubleshooter. I know it sounds hokey, but they are effective. 
