Quote:
Originally Posted by accufitgolf
I disagree with most but only under specific conditions.
I had a similar issue in my last home. Kitchen with an eat-in area (bigger then a breakfast nook) but they were separated by an overhang counter top so while it looked like one room, there was something "separating" them. Picture a UU with the counter top and sink between them.
Remember folks the OP said eat in kitchen area, not a dining room.
I installed wall mount cabinets (not as deep as base cabinets) on the floor of the eat in area. They were not the exact cabinet style and color as in the kitchen cabinets, but they were very, very close. I had an indentical counter top as was in the kitchen installed on the top of them. They picked up storage, cost me very little loss of square footage in the eat in area, and while not an identical match few could tell unless closely looked at. The same type/color counter top made it all look the same.
The over hang counter top in the kitchen was actually taller (8-12inches) then the counter top in the eat in area so I had the same counter top material cut and installed on the wall area from the top of the eat in kitchen new counter top to under the old over hang counter top. On the open end of the adjoining cabinets was a strip of wall painted the same color as the kitchen walls. This easily hid the slight color differences in the exposed ends of the cabinet. The other ends were against the wall.
Hope I am describing this. Wish I could take a pic.
Hope this helps
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Just a few "helpful" tips *only* "if" you want to hear...
About industry standards...
***Kitchen "
anything" industry standards are varied by 3" (not talking about bath here).
Counter height is 30" (table), 36" (kitchen counter), 42" (bar)... seen a few at 39" for that custom look (where not much chairs will fit under except for the adjustable height ones)... still at 3" increment.
Main reasons = chairs & its "fit"... their industry standards... can also be medical reasoning = "posture height".
Now if the counter is caught in between the 3" standards (for the DIYers or the sub par contractor who has that bright idea to go non-standard because they are for dwarfs or giants etc.)...
to the un-educated / unknowing *oops* buyers (who have never ever done kitchens in their life)... what will end up happening is they will probably have to rip out that counter top & maybe even cabinets to redo that kitchen so their counter height will be on par with *standards* so when
"their" educated buyers came through who can see past "that stainless steel set" have nothing to complain about.
After all kitchen is quite a "big money"....
so when updating, my as well do it right.
Now for the close match cabinets....
Many people if you deal with the pros...
will most likely tell you to either match the make & brand, strip off all its stains & restain / repaint them all together so the stain matches (even if wood ages are different on the old vs new cabinets) OR....
CONTRAST... the add-ons.
So they actually look purposefully done as in many custom homes.
So the cabinets don't look like cabinets that look like "the house that jack build"...
= patchwork.
Just saying...
P.S. Don't have to take my word for it... just "google, google on the wall"....
And I also know the Mohs scale for those different countertops too... Silestone (any quartz) ard 8, Granite varied 7 +, stainless steel (except for the diamond edged saw / knives that can chip or used to cut these tops) usually 5 - 5.5 etc... Diamond is a girl's best friend... mostly that perfect 10 (do take it off while using any counter tops please).