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The realtor listing the house I recently bought kept saying oh you don't need a radon test because we don't have a problem here. This house is Upstate NY and if you look on the EPA map, there's a good chance for radon. Well, we did the test and guess what house got a 4.0? Oh yeah this one. The sellers gave us a nice credit at closing to cover the cost of a mitigation system should we choose to put one in. we plan on doing a longer test than 2 days like what was done for the sale. We're looking at doing it for several months to get a better idea.
I'm no radon expert but I believe the manufacturers of the test advise against leaving the canisters out for that long a period of time.
I'm no radon expert but I believe the manufacturers of the test advise against leaving the canisters out for that long a period of time.
Radon inspectors have several different tests available. Our radon inspector recommended we do a 90 day test because we came in at 4.0 after 48 hours. All tests don't use canisters.
Radon inspectors have several different tests available. Our radon inspector recommended we do a 90 day test because we came in at 4.0 after 48 hours. All tests don't use canisters.
I think someone might have mentioned that earlier in the thread. Oh yeah! Here it is . . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikePRU
As Silverfall indicated, there are two ways to test for radon.
One is the "canister" style test where you get something that looks like a plastic vial or a shoe polish tin and it sits in the house for several days and then is mailed off to a lab for analysis. You'll have the results a few days after that usually. It's usually recommended with this version of the test that you get two canisters in case one is a dud.
The other version of the test is a machine which is about the size of a shoe box. The machine sits in the house (usually the basement if there is one) for the same amount of time as the canisters. However, when the tech comes to pick up the machine they can usually read it right on the spot. Later you'll get an email with a more official test report.
The machine version of the test is a little more expensive, but I usually recommend it over the canister version. The machines are calibrated pretty regularly which means they're accurate. Plus, getting the results quicker is a huge advantage and the machine can give you readings over time. Multiple readings over time gives a more accurate picture than a single reading IMO.
If you do go with the canister version of the test, you can buy them at your local home/hardware store (Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace, etc). The tests at the store are the exact same ones I've seen the inspectors use around here, but buying them yourself usually saves you about $20 or so.
Anyway, the reason I said that was I assumed you were just going to go to a home store and buy your own test kit. Clearly, I found out what happens when you assume things.
Anyway, the reason I said that was I assumed you were just going to go to a home store and buy your own test kit. Clearly, I found out what happens when you assume things.
LOL Well I don't have to tell what assume spells....hehehehehehe
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