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Old 04-14-2017, 12:07 PM
 
32 posts, read 166,106 times
Reputation: 23

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Thank you all for your replies to my question regarding the water stains and mold from the inspection report.now I have another question for you guys. the inspection report says the garage floor slab has a significant settling for about 2 1/2 inches which causes a gap in the middle of the garage floor.The inspector recommended the repair or replacement of the garage floor. how much will be the typical cost?

We have offered 1% over the asking price , and I have been troubled with the findings from the inspection. The water stain, mold and the garage floor replacement. Would these be too much for the house deal?
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Another question from inspection, need advice!-image.jpg  
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Old 04-14-2017, 12:50 PM
 
28,455 posts, read 85,157,040 times
Reputation: 18726
Hahahahaha.

There are standards for replacing / repairing residential concrete and CLEARLY this garage floor is WELL WITHIN GUIDELINES!!! This is NOT a situation where you need to make your floor "ADA compliant" and even if wanted that the way to achieve it is NOT removal & replacement but GRINDING OUT the high spots -- https://www.safesidewalks.com/compliance/

Again, a little LESSON about construction is needed. Concrete CONTRACTS as it cures. Good concrete firms understand that and plan for it. When the FOUNDATION was poured along the perimeter of the garage the footer extended deep below grade. Then the foundation was allowed to cure before the rest of the framing was done. The GARAGE FLOOR was poured weeks or months later. THAT IS STANDARD. As the floor cures it does shrink away from the foundation a bit BUT NO ONE EVER WALKS THERE so the concrete finishers don't make any special effort to "cove" that portion. In fact, they deliberately DO NOT overpour the floor up the walls as that would result in increased risk of uneven HEAVING of the floor relative to the foundation. THAT was "the bad old way" that some builders learned lead to TERRIBLE cracking...

The concrete does have nice deep EXPANSION JOINTS that will ensure the floor will be resistant to developing stress cracking and it also appears to adhere to MODERN ENVIRONMENT STANDARDS that omit a floor drain. Those drains were found to be potential sources of GASOLINE AND OIL accumulation and it is safer to have a modest pitch so that the garage allows an heavy snow / rain to drain out. THERE IS NO EVIDENCE to suggest ANYTHING needs repair / replacement!!! The tiny gap of the garage door not sealing against the floor is nothing to be concerned with, if you want a better seal there are solutions available for the slab or the garage door BUT energy and safety experts warn that too tightly a sealed garage is generally a poor idea -- every time you open the huge door ALL the air escapes and thus it should not be treated as normal living space but as place where you do not want fumes to ever build up...
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Old 04-14-2017, 01:27 PM
 
32 posts, read 166,106 times
Reputation: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by chet everett View Post
Hahahahaha.

There are standards for replacing / repairing residential concrete and CLEARLY this garage floor is WELL WITHIN GUIDELINES!!! This is NOT a situation where you need to make your floor "ADA compliant" and even if wanted that the way to achieve it is NOT removal & replacement but GRINDING OUT the high spots -- https://www.safesidewalks.com/compliance/

Again, a little LESSON about construction is needed. Concrete CONTRACTS as it cures. Good concrete firms understand that and plan for it. When the FOUNDATION was poured along the perimeter of the garage the footer extended deep below grade. Then the foundation was allowed to cure before the rest of the framing was done. The GARAGE FLOOR was poured weeks or months later. THAT IS STANDARD. As the floor cures it does shrink away from the foundation a bit BUT NO ONE EVER WALKS THERE so the concrete finishers don't make any special effort to "cove" that portion. In fact, they deliberately DO NOT overpour the floor up the walls as that would result in increased risk of uneven HEAVING of the floor relative to the foundation. THAT was "the bad old way" that some builders learned lead to TERRIBLE cracking...

The concrete does have nice deep EXPANSION JOINTS that will ensure the floor will be resistant to developing stress cracking and it also appears to adhere to MODERN ENVIRONMENT STANDARDS that omit a floor drain. Those drains were found to be potential sources of GASOLINE AND OIL accumulation and it is safer to have a modest pitch so that the garage allows an heavy snow / rain to drain out. THERE IS NO EVIDENCE to suggest ANYTHING needs repair / replacement!!! The tiny gap of the garage door not sealing against the floor is nothing to be concerned with, if you want a better seal there are solutions available for the slab or the garage door BUT energy and safety experts warn that too tightly a sealed garage is generally a poor idea -- every time you open the huge door ALL the air escapes and thus it should not be treated as normal living space but as place where you do not want fumes to ever build up...

Chet Everett, thanks again for your reply ! so do you mean the 2.5 inches slab drop to the right side of the wall is OK and not concerning? I have been really worried about the cost added to the already high house price.
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Old 04-14-2017, 03:20 PM
 
28,455 posts, read 85,157,040 times
Reputation: 18726
First I do want to express a bit of reluctance to sound overly dismissive, but from the pictures shown there is not really evidence of "slab drop" at all. It may be that the FOUNDATION looks to have marks on it that are some 2.5" higher than the floor this almost certainly due to the fact that the FLOOR was poured well after the foundation. This is standard and is done to allow the foundation to reach acceptable hardness before other work is done. When the garage floor is later poured it is then done in way that will account for its tendency to shrink as it cures.

If it truly "dropped" there would likely be very different appearance and VERY different fix. I would advise you to look closely at these pictures, especially the one that shows a MASSIVELY heaved slab beneath sliding glass doors -- STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING for a STRUCTURAL RENOVATION PROJECT | BUILDING CONSULTANTS, INC. The solution required there was dramatic -- removal of concrete slab and major replacement of footings / additional structural reinforcement.

The key take-away is that when a concrete slab does "drop" it generally does so in a way that results in HUGE cracks. In contrast normal "shrinkage while curing" is what this appears to be AND it does seem within the normal range. In fact, I would say that there do not seem to be any noticeable cracks the concrete crew did a good job avoiding any "plastic cracking" that is common when the slab is poured during challenging conditions -- Plastic Shrinkage
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:15 PM
 
Location: Mostly in my head
19,855 posts, read 65,704,038 times
Reputation: 19378
You can always get a structural engineer to inspect the house and garage. Around here, that would be around $400-450.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:51 PM
 
Location: Near Falls Lake
4,234 posts, read 3,150,687 times
Reputation: 4664
First off, understand the the garage slab is not tied to the house, it is separate. Secondly, from what I can see in the picture, it didn't drop 2 or more inches. Yes, you have a slight gap to the outside at the garage overhead door but that issue is easily solved with an adjustable sweep. It doesn't appear to be a significant issue to me.
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