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Old 04-06-2012, 02:23 AM
 
Location: north carolina
121 posts, read 271,036 times
Reputation: 56

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I am planning on moving to Central Ohio later on this year. I noticed some homes do not have a water filtration system, therefore have red Iron water (yuck) Most of the homes I am interested have well water. Just want a ballpark figure of the cost of a whole house water purification system...........are we talking hundreds or thousdan of dollars? Just want to be prepared if we need one. thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:54 AM
 
Location: Not where you ever lived
11,535 posts, read 30,265,438 times
Reputation: 6426
The only thing I ever installed was a standard water conditioner -- even with sulpher in my water. I drank and cooked with bottled water. It did not affect the laundry and in 8 months the odor was gone and the water was sweet. There is a product for water conditioners that does address iron. Talk to Sears; they are good problem solvers. Talk to the plumbers who deal with iron every day, too.

If you buying.... DO NOT PURCHASE any house before you pay for a whole house inspection from a licensed qualified home inspector. Bring the iron issue to their attention before he ever starts. Very often these inspectors can find what is causing your concern before you ever buy the house.
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:42 AM
 
3,041 posts, read 7,935,359 times
Reputation: 3976
I have posted on this in past,my water without filters is like what you describe.I installed my own setup,0 micron sediment filter along with two 5 micron carbon block filters,change sediment filter monthly and carbon block every other month.Water quality and clarity excellent,no staining in toilet or shower now after 3 years.I have 2 1/2 inch by20 filter's.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:33 AM
 
Location: Londonderry, NH
41,479 posts, read 59,783,759 times
Reputation: 24863
I suggest having the water analyzed by a competent independent lab. Ask the laboratory how the water should be treated for the expected use. You have to know what you are treating for so you know how to treat the problem before talking with plumbers or treatment system salesmen.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:34 AM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,722 posts, read 58,054,000 times
Reputation: 46185
There are different solutions to red Iron (and 'suspended' Iron / bacteria)(and lots of detail on-line).
It is imperative that you know PRECISELY what you are treating. Lab tests cost ~ $70, I do them for several properties / small public water systems and ALL places I purchase. (they are always rural, and on well and septic)

Conventional water softener will likely be std solution (~$1,200), I got a complete one for $80 at a Yard Sale.

There is also the option to use chlorine injection ($500). Or... my econo solution... (I 'Shock' my wells 1/month with bleach). After doing this for about 6 months, it is often OK for about 5-7 yrs. (of course this varies with specific conditions), especially when someone comes in to work on your system and brings a contaminated rig / equipment, or significantly disturbs your aquifer equilibrium.

One place had terrible rust, and it was solved with softener. (salt / auto backwash system,,, very common)
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:30 AM
 
24,832 posts, read 37,344,316 times
Reputation: 11538
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post
There are different solutions to red Iron (and 'suspended' Iron / bacteria)(and lots of detail on-line).
It is imperative that you know PRECISELY what you are treating. Lab tests cost ~ $70, I do them for several properties / small public water systems and ALL places I purchase. (they are always rural, and on well and septic)

Conventional water softener will likely be std solution (~$1,200), I got a complete one for $80 at a Yard Sale.

There is also the option to use chlorine injection ($500). Or... my econo solution... (I 'Shock' my wells 1/month with bleach). After doing this for about 6 months, it is often OK for about 5-7 yrs. (of course this varies with specific conditions), especially when someone comes in to work on your system and brings a contaminated rig / equipment, or significantly disturbs your aquifer equilibrium.

One place had terrible rust, and it was solved with softener. (salt / auto backwash system,,, very common)
Did you know bleach (chlorine) is hard on your water pump???

The best thing for a water well is to pump it.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:30 AM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,722 posts, read 58,054,000 times
Reputation: 46185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Driller1 View Post
Did you know bleach (chlorine) is hard on your water pump???

The best thing for a water well is to pump it.
yes, but a trade off... My pumps have lasted over 30 yrs, and I have not had a failure, just replaced them when I had to pull for wire or pipe repair.

I must clear my developed water area in bottom of well of Iron Bacteria (suspended, or it wreaks havoc with everyone on the system, and we all need treatment systems (which require time, $$, and service). Again, I only have to do this about 5 - 6 times over a 5 yr period.

And yes I do pump freely @ full volume before and after irrigation season.

My wells are 400 -500 ft, so not too ez to drop in a higher volume pump. or set a bailing (cable) rig periodically.
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