Observations from Living Two Years in the Seattle Area (Renton: cul-de-sac, transplants)

[Gruvis]

City-Data was a tremendous resource for me when I was considering moving here. This is a lengthy post but hopefully it might assist a person or two thinking about relocating to Western Washington. Tl;dr This place is amazing, the traffic is atrocious, the weather is very pleasant, people are goofy, housing is limited and expensive, the food is top notch, and I don’t want to live anywhere else.

Background: I am in my late 20s and grew up in Michigan. I visited Washington a few times on vacation and fell in love with the place. I became obsessed with moving to the area and felt it would be the perfect cure for someone with a quarter life crisis that lived in metro Detroit suburbia his whole life. It was amazing to see people out and about in a clean big city instead of going downtown for a sporting event and quickly retreating to the ‘burbs as soon as the game ends. The stars aligned and I managed to snag a job here just as my apartment lease ran out in MI. Being here is literally a dream come true.

Geography: The best in the country. The ocean is a few hours away, the mountains are less than an hour away, there is snow available if you want to play in it but not have to scrape your car every morning or shovel your driveway, the lakes are pristine, the old growth forests are calming and inspiring, and there’s a desert climate just over the mountains if that’s your thing. I’m still in awe every time I see Rainier. There are so many recreation options just a stone’s throw away. The tall trees and mountains may feel claustrophobic to some but it is comforting to me. I was amazed at how much fall color there was in the Evergreen State. The smells year round are so fresh and outdoorsy. People and cities do a great job keeping the area clean and landscaped. Going back to the flat Midwest is torture and after a few days I can’t wait to come back to the PNW.

Infrastructure: The Seattle area has to be a textbook example of a place that grew too quickly too fast. New buildings are going up every week and mega-projects dominate the headlines. The area is both building for the future and playing catch-up from the population boom in the 90s. Density vs sprawl is a big debate at the moment. I-5 was supposed to be the main thoroughfare and I-405 served as the bypass for those that didn’t want to drive downtown, but the present day version of I-405 is a mess for most hours of the day. Arterials move at a snail’s pace because they are just not suited for heavy traffic. Designing around the geography is a challenge and there’s no quick way to go from point A to point B. Which leads me to…

Traffic: This topic has been beaten to death, but it should be worth noting that traffic is very much a part of Seattle culture. I now have to plan my day/route around what roads will be busy at a certain time. Even weekends are a drag when everyone comes back from a trip or sports game. Coming from an area where cars, suburbs, and single-occupant drivers are a way of life, I think the transit options are pretty darn good here. It just stinks that we are years away from more light rail or BRT. People drive incredibly slow from what I was used to and do not know how to use the passing lane correctly. With all the new transplants, there is a mishmash of driving styles from all over the country. I’ve learned to accept long travel times and no matter how much one complains, it’s not getting better any time soon if at all. I just take a deep breath, crank the music up a little louder, and hope nobody rear-ends me while they are sending a text message.

Weather: This was the best surprise for me. The weather, even during the winter, is comfortable. The clouds make for some amazing sunrises and sunsets, and I find myself checking the Space Needle cam for even better views. I arrived during the start of the heat wave of ’14 and experienced the non-existent winter that followed, so my opinions were skewed that year. Summer 2015 was also a scorcher and I seriously questioned the lack of AC in buildings and homes, but last winter seemed much more normal. For those that live in the Midwest, Seattle is no more gray and cloudy during the winter. Just imagine temps in the 40s and drizzle instead of snow. Not once have I experienced the winter blues here, but I make it a point to get outside and exercise. This is much easier to do without snow on the ground and windchills in the negatives. The lack of humidity during the summer is fantastic. I love keeping my window open and letting the 50 degree air cool me off.

People: This was the worst surprise for me. Let me start off by saying most people are “nice”, but people are not personable here and exist in their own little bubbles. People do not make eye contact. It was weird during my first day of work, coworkers would look to the right and left of my head but never at my face. I’ve held doors open walking into a store knowing someone is behind me, but more often than not they will choose a different door just so they won’t have to interact. I went from feeling like an introvert in the Midwest to a major extrovert here. If I accidentally catch someone’s eye, I’m used to nodding and smiling politely, but 4 out of 5 times people will look down or away and pretend you don’t exist. Nobody says “excuse me” if you are in their way, they will attempt to limbo and maneuver around you without saying anything. The Seattle freeze is very real. I made an honest effort to join Meetups, which was great for meeting other transplants, and I’d encourage other people to do the same. I’ve lived mostly in the south end, and notice a lot more people don’t take pride in their appearance. It is very common to see a mother walking like a zombie with her phone at eye level and her kids trailing behind her. Dating is a tremendous challenge as a guy. I consider myself fortunate for finally meeting a girl I connect with after making a huge effort in the dating scene. I’m convinced if someone was being assaulted downtown, most onlookers would turn a blind eye instead of helping and tweet about ‘how someone needs to take care of the homeless’ as they round the corner. I’m sure locals are not happy their once-sleepy region has been invaded by out of towners, but would it hurt to smile every now and then? I don’t get a sense of community here, like nobody has each other’s back. I live in a cul-de-sac for the time being and still don’t know my neighbor’s names. If you are considering moving, it helps knowing someone out here beforehand or make a serious effort to join a common interest group. I try to keep my chin up but sometimes people’s cold demeanor wear on me.

Food: There is an endless supply of great seafood and Asian food. We had coney dogs, square pizza and Vernors in Michigan...that's about it. I’ve never had so much good Mexican, Vietnamese, and Thai food here. Chain pizza stores are lacking but ‘artisanal’ joints are aplenty. There is always a farmer’s market close by. Great beer and wine are everywhere. Late-night options are limited. Groceries are slightly more expensive but not by too much. Darigold and Tillamook are just as good as the cheese back home. If you are coming from the East Coast, there aren’t too many options for sandwiches and deli, but there are a few standouts in Pioneer Square. Same with BBQ, there are a handful of tasty joints if you know where to find them.

Sports: Two of some of the best venues in the country are here. Even if you’re not a fan, you can spend an enjoyable evening at Safeco. Sounders games are cool for the experience. The whole 12th Man thing is incredibly annoying as a non-Seahawks fan. Die hard Hawks fans from the 90s are quick to point out how many bandwaggoners there are now. It would be cool to have an NHL team here but in the meantime the Thunderbirds play seriously entertaining hockey and I’d recommend other folks to see a game or two. Seattle will certainly not replace your native sports teams, but there are still plenty of opportunities to have fun.

Recreation: There’s never a dull moment and always something to do. It is amazing to ski on mountains instead of 200ft tall manmade hills, and kayak on water knowing there could be orcas beneath you. I’ve had a blast adventuring both in the backcountry and in the city. The mountain biking community is not as big as I expected but road biking and commuting has a good contingent. Hiking is beyond incredible, kudos to WTA and their website. Rec leagues, especially soccer, are popular. Sailing has a good contingent. If you are bored here, then you are a boring person.

Cost of Living: also been beaten to death here, but expect to pay quite a bit more if relocating from the center of the country. The housing demand is high and the supply is low. Hope that your employer pays you accordingly so your quality of life doesn’t take a hit. Electricity is very cheap and water (supply and sewage) are expensive. The cost of owning a vehicle is high. Sin taxes are high. I’ve noticed people don’t like to negotiate deals here, whether that be buying a car or receiving a service. Just like the “sun tax” for living in SoCal, there is a premium for living in a desirable area. Online calculators are surprisingly accurate.

Politics: Government and politics have a huge presence. I appreciate how well-informed people are about elections and big decisions, but projects and decisions move very slowly because everyone has a say. NIMBYism is huge. There is no income tax but everything else is nickel and dimed. Look at a parking garage receipt and expect to see sales tax, parking tax, cost-of-living fees, among others. It behooves one to be frugal while maintaining a steady income. There are many regulations and rules; someone from Montana may find the government overwhelming in comparison. Without going into my personal beliefs, it has taken me a while to get used to political things out here.

Culture: People seem healthier and lead active lifestyles everywhere but in south King County (just my observation). I enjoy that there’s not an overwhelming pressure to get married and start a family as soon as possible. Folks are more apt to be spiritual rather than adhering to an organized religion. Technology is huge out here for obvious regions. Seattleites know their city is awesome and take full advantage of parks and recreation. Seattleites also know their city is awesome and get a little chafed if anyone criticizes something about their city. An Eastsider would make fun of a Seattleite for protesting capitalism while a Seattleite would make fun of an Eastsider for being a soccer mom driving a Lexus SUV. People seem to switch jobs more often and put in lots of hours beyond the normal call of duty. Work hard, play hard is a common theme. Working and commuting is a huge part of culture. There is a push to be organic, GMO and gluten free, artisanal, and trendy almost to a fault. The music scene is great and I shamelessly admit to blasting Superunknown in my car when driving north on the Viaduct.

Health: My lifestyle went from watching TV after work or going to a beer garden on the weekends to hiking after work and exploring the city on the weekends. I feel so much more healthy here and objectively improved my personal numbers. Mentally I feel refreshed more often. The resources for living well are abundant. Healthcare is good but I have not experienced the top notch service others have consistently reported. The temperate climate is comfortable and haven't experienced increased sickness from the moisture. Again, you HAVE to get outside during the winter or you will get cabin fever.

Conclusion: Western Washington is as realistically close to being a utopia as you can get in my opinion. There are only a few things keeping it from being perfect, but then again, no place on the planet is. I felt I’ve grown as a person since moving here and there are so many opportunities for others to do the same. I have no regrets whatsoever and I think I’ll be here for the long run. There are things I miss about the Midwest, sure, but this area continues to be awe-inspiring. I’d encourage folks who want to live out here (or reluctantly accepting a job) to spend a week in the non-touristy areas. Really get a feel for the neighborhoods and maybe even rehearse your potential commute. Interact with people wherever you go. Visit during a cloudy week instead of a sunny stretch. And be sure to smile, because this place is pretty darn cool.

[homesinseattle]

Great post! "If you are bored, you are boring". So true, that's what I tell my 11 year old.

[Seacove]

Originally Posted by Gruvis

I’d encourage folks who want to live out here

You are killing me.

[Ruth4Truth]

OP, I've never encountered the lack-of-eye-contact thing. For that to happen even in the workplace sounds bizarre. I wonder if it's something new, and exclusive to a certain generation. FWIW, I lived, studied and worked in Seattle for about 20 years. I also never encountered that really odd behavior you described when holding a door open for someone. Yes, there's a Freeze, but the behaviors you describe weren't part of my experience of it.

I do, however, have some really extreme, crazy-neighbors stories. Suffice it to say that if you don't know your neighbors, consider it a blessing, lol!

[franklin42]

Wow, great post! Refreshing and honest. I have been here for about 6 months now and was planning on doing a similar post. I might not have to now!

Oh and for anyone looking to move to the Seattle area, Woodinville is where it's at. Just beautiful up there. Great schools, pretty etc. South of 90, not so much!

[Seacove]

Originally Posted by franklin42

Wow, great post! Refreshing and honest. I have been here for about 6 months now and was planning on doing a similar post. I might not have to now!

Oh and for anyone looking to move to the Seattle area, Woodinville is where it's at. Just beautiful up there. Great schools, pretty etc. South of 90, not so much!

Woodinville is full. Try Renton.

[GatsbyGatz]

Fantastic post! As a fellow transplant, I pretty much empathize with every comment you made. Glad you love it here! It's a pretty perfect city.

[pnwguy2]

Also love the post. The eye-contact thing is mainly coming from two sources...first, when many move into an area from another area it is quite hard to make that eye-contact right away. Call it "cold" or "the freeze", or just "not yet comfortable", but this is one reason. Part 2 of this is that many natives don't really trust newcomers until they get to know them, and that would be the common response.

The other thing is this area was originally inhabited by many of Northern Europe ancestry. Norwegians, Scandinavians, even the Dutch, all were important settlers in the early days of Seattle and Western Washington. To expect them to change their native behaviors, even in their offspring, is not likely.

[west seattle gal]

I agree with absolutely everything the OP wrote. Accurate assessment, in my opinion.

[tobester]

I, in my 30 years here, have never experienced the 'no eye contact' thing. It's more the opposite, often you feel obligated to make eye contact and say hello to folks you pass. Could be 'location dependent'.