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Old 10-04-2010, 10:51 AM
 
Location: Between Seattle and Portland
1,266 posts, read 3,222,421 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nite Ryder View Post
My home is fairly secure. I have installed outside wireless motion detectors in the front, side and rear of my house. The receiver makes a different sound for each detector, so I can instantly tell which detector tripped. In addition to the detectors, I have outside closed circuit TV camera's that can be viewed from our 60" TV located in the living room. We can switch to any camera we wish, front side or rear of house. My house also has an alarm system that can be used day or night. It uses a new cellular phone system to call a central station monitoring company, so phone lines can't be cut to disable the system.
Nite Ryder, could you give us the specifics on the brand names and approximate costs to set up a similar system?

1. Outside wireless motion detectors
2. Receiver that makes different sounds at each location
3. Outside closed circuit TV cameras
4. 24-hour alarm system linked to cell phone

We just about to invest in a home security set-up along these lines and could sure use your expertise and advice.
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:22 PM
 
Location: Santa FE NM
3,489 posts, read 6,507,283 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nite Ryder View Post
For the adverage person that doesn't use a firearm often, a pump shotgun is the best gun of choice in my estimation. At less than 10 feet, it doesn't matter what kind of shotshell is in the chamber, otherwise double ought buck shot is a good choice. While slugs can be deadly, and can shoot through a vehicle, they are not as good as 00 buck shot in the hands of an inexperienced shooter.
The "10-feet" thing was exactly what I was talking about!!!

Based on my research and testing, though, double-ought buckshot (nine 0.33" shot per shell) is too much. To put it bluntly, deer are much more difficult to knock down for the count than are humans. Against human targets, particularly in an urban or suburban environment, I believe that Number Three buckshot (eighteen 0.25" shot per shell) is a better choice.

Once again, folks, YMMV. BTW, one needs to consider how much of a choke your shotgun barrel has. I did my tests with my Savage riot gun. It has a Cylinder choke (the least restrictive). A shotgun with a Full or Extra-Full choke would perform quite differently.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:28 PM
 
Location: Interior AK
4,731 posts, read 9,942,023 times
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Nite Ryder - what additional physical security measures do you have in place if the power and/or cell network is out? I'm all for electronic surveillance and security alarm systems, but other physical barrier methods are also quite important.

I've never noticed a horrible spread pattern on my 00 buck with a fully open choke... at least not within 25 feet, which is my "kill or be killed" personal safety zone. My last sight-in blew a baseball sized hole through the target at 25 feet, now point-blank that would only be golf-ball sized... but baseball or golfball is still enough to drop a target with a torso or head shot, and at the very least take out an arm or leg. At 50 feet or more, a shotgun is not the most effective weapon, nor most hand guns for that matter (unless they have a long muzzle). But, outside of 25 feet, you're not quite in "clear and present danger" IMO... you still have many other options until that point other than shooting.
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:38 PM
 
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This is interesting, I just gave a talk at one of our survival meetings two weeks ago.

There are two basic wireless systems for outdoors. I have both and have used both. The one I like the best is made by Optex and is called their wireless 1000 Annunciator system. Google it. These systems can be purchased in parts, you need at least one motion detector (TD-10U) and you need one receiver (RC-10U) which is also referred to as a chime box w/relay. The motion detectors use one each 9 Volt battery which will last a year if is a copper top or energizer. It's coverage pattern can be a narrow 50" or wide angle 25", range over 100 yards. The receiver operates off house current, just plug in a 9v DC transformer. The other system is made by Dakota Alert. These have a range of almost 1/4 mile 'line of sight'. Transmitter model number is mat cost is $84, Handheld walkie talkie model number is M538-HT cost was $63, base station model is M538-SS cost is $56 (prices were 2008 prices). It has stand alone motion detectors also, but these use 6 AA batteries in each unit (don't last a year for me) and each motion detecting unit has an extendable antenna and a infared motion detector and a transmitter circuit board in a 6X6 inch OD colored plastic case. These transmit a signal to either (or both) a base station radio type receiver or a portable hand held walkie talkie. If you have both the base station and walkie talkie, you can talk to each other with them in addition to thier use as motion detectors. Again use google to get more info. You can also pickup the usable signal on most walkie talkies that hunters use.

As far as the security system goes: I will never advise anyone to buy from a major company like ADT, or Brinks. With them you get a cheap alarm, but you also get payments that are sometimes expensive, another thing you get is no service that is worth a darn. Stick with a small alarm company where you live, they will usually work with you on the cost, but you will be better off with them. The cellular link that I use is a fairly new thing out (a bit over a month old) it is less expensive than the one that came out 2 years ago, only adds $5 a month to my monitoring charge (my son doesn't charge me for it either).

I don't have the name and model number of the close circuit TV camera's that I use. All of them have a ring of infrared LED's around the camera lens making it possible for them to 'see in the dark'. Most of these camera's can only see in the dark well for about 10". The color camera's are black and white at night or in low light. Costco and other big box stores have these in kits, but I have always purchased individual camera's because you get a better camera for your money. You don't need much light outside to be able to see well with these camera's. A motion light really lights up the area and you can see well with them. I don't leave a 'yard light' on, because that only makes it easier for a burglar to see where he wants to go. Force him to use a flashlight, which you can spot sooner. I have chainlink fences on both sides of my house and a high wooden fence in the back, no bushes anywhere, fruit trees in the back along the fence. Deer, cats, dogs, and racoons will wake you up at night in some areas, but I'd rather have that than have any of my vehicles vandalized. Feel free to email me if you have questions I can answer, with 31 years in the security business, maybe I can help. nite.ryder@hotmail.com I've also collected firearms for most of those 31 years and still do today.

Last edited by Nite Ryder; 10-04-2010 at 02:46 PM..
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:57 PM
 
4,098 posts, read 7,104,854 times
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Default Keeping the Bad Guys Out - Home Security

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nighteyes View Post
The "10-feet" thing was exactly what I was talking about!!!

Based on my research and testing, though, double-ought buckshot (nine 0.33" shot per shell) is too much. To put it bluntly, deer are much more difficult to knock down for the count than are humans. Against human targets, particularly in an urban or suburban environment, I believe that Number Three buckshot (eighteen 0.25" shot per shell) is a better choice.

Once again, folks, YMMV. BTW, one needs to consider how much of a choke your shotgun barrel has. I did my tests with my Savage riot gun. It has a Cylinder choke (the least restrictive). A shotgun with a Full or Extra-Full choke would perform quite differently.
In 1972 the Oregon State Police switched from Winchester 94 rifles to Mossberg Shotguns. They issued double ought buck and the shotgun in each car has double ought buck in the magazine. I choose it because you never know for sure if you will be shooting while in our home or if you will end up outside. I for one would never ever shot someone if i couldn't prove in court that I was in fear of loosing my life. I wouldn't shoot someone to stop a bank robbery or car theft or anything that didn't affect me or my wife. Double ought buck is too much in a house, it will penetrate into other rooms, but is it wise to have a different gun for every sceniero you could encounter? No. My Judge Revolver would work well in the middle of the night if the bad guy was only 3 to 5 feet away, but so would any of my other handguns that are in easy reach. The only perfect weapon we have is our brain, and it's only perfect when we use good judgement.
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:19 PM
 
4,098 posts, read 7,104,854 times
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Default Keeping the Bad Guys Out - Home Security

Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingAll4Seasons View Post
Nite Ryder - what additional physical security measures do you have in place if the power and/or cell network is out? I'm all for electronic surveillance and security alarm systems, but other physical barrier methods are also quite important.

I've never noticed a horrible spread pattern on my 00 buck with a fully open choke... at least not within 25 feet, which is my "kill or be killed" personal safety zone. My last sight-in blew a baseball sized hole through the target at 25 feet, now point-blank that would only be golf-ball sized... but baseball or golfball is still enough to drop a target with a torso or head shot, and at the very least take out an arm or leg. At 50 feet or more, a shotgun is not the most effective weapon, nor most hand guns for that matter (unless they have a long muzzle). But, outside of 25 feet, you're not quite in "clear and present danger" IMO... you still have many other options until that point other than shooting.
Other security measures I've taken: I have four gasoline genrators, one of them is 3000 watts and is situated so I can run certain appliances in my home. I also have gas lanterns available should power go off. If the power goes off, that could mean no cell phone service, depending on the situation, I have battery operated two way radios, but you need some one on the other end for them to be useful. I've kept some CB radios operational just in case. I have a brand new wood stove and plenty of wood to use in it. We have stock piled food and water and will stockpile more as time permits. All of my out buildings have locks on the doors, I never leave a vehicle unlocked or any outside doors unlocked. My outdoor area is not lit up at night, but it can be at a moments notice or at the flip of four light switches. I'm a light sleeper, no one can leave the street in front of my home without me knowing it. I don't have a front yard, I have a parking area for about 6 cars or pickups, it is all visable on my living room TV, day or night. I have an intercom at all of my outside doors, I don't have to get out of my chair to speak to someone at the front, rear, side, or office door, and I can see who I'm speaking to. My whole set up didn't cost alot all at once. I did a little bit at a time, it's just been an ongoing project. I've always been interested and involved with security. My house has a large two vehicle carport in the front, a deteched metal garage building off to one side, and a covered deck in the rear. No one can get near my house without alerting me.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:52 PM
 
Location: Santa FE NM
3,489 posts, read 6,507,283 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingAll4Seasons View Post
I've never noticed a horrible spread pattern on my 00 buck with a fully open choke... at least not within 25 feet, which is my "kill or be killed" personal safety zone. My last sight-in blew a baseball sized hole through the target at 25 feet, now point-blank that would only be golf-ball sized...
Yup, and with a Full or Extra-Full choke, at said 25 feet, the hole would most likely be nearer to golf-ball-sized.

Most encounters are likely to occur indoors, which limits the likely range to around 10-12 feet. If I can get away for a while this week, I'll take my cylinder-choke shotgun up to the range and put shells through targets at a measured distance of 12 feet. I'll use 00 buck, #3 buck, and high-brass #4 bird-shot.

If I can find some scrap plywood, I'll use that. Otherwise it'll be corrugated cardboard.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:30 PM
 
Location: Interior AK
4,731 posts, read 9,942,023 times
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Nite-Ryder - do you have special locks/bolts on your doors or shatter-resistant glass or film on your windows? I've been considering a double through bolt for our door... with the handle in the center which shoots two steel bolts 6" into the studs on either side of the door, which would pretty much preclue kicking in the door (or Mr. Bear from busting it in). Of course, at that point, I suspect it would be easier to just come through the wall. But I am still interested in the shatter-proof films for our windows since some of them do keep bullets from completely destorying a window and we live in the boonies with an active hunting season (and Mr. Bear, of course LOL). Have you heard anything about these? Any recommendations?

Nighteyes - unfortunately, my worst home invader is Mr. Bear and I need a slug or 00 buck to deal with him with any chance of success, so no choke on my shotty. Under 25' would be inside the house no matter what unless I was outside... outside 25' is the edge of the tree line, I wouldn't even try to penetrate our forest with birdshot. It all depends on the circumstances
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Old 10-05-2010, 12:51 PM
 
Location: Santa FE NM
3,489 posts, read 6,507,283 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingAll4Seasons View Post
Nighteyes - unfortunately, my worst home invader is Mr. Bear and I need a slug or 00 buck to deal with him with any chance of success...
Yup, and considering the sheer size of the Ursus Arctos and/or Ursus Maritimus interlopers with which you may have to contend, even double-ought buck might be bear-ly enough...

Fortunately, at least for the present, the only interlopers who may insinuate themselves into my life and property are Homo Sapiens. Having several previous encounters with Ursus Americanus in a free-form setting, this is a fact for which I am eternally grateful...
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:28 PM
 
4,098 posts, read 7,104,854 times
Reputation: 5682
Default Keeping the Bad Guys Out - Home Security

Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingAll4Seasons View Post
Nite-Ryder - do you have special locks/bolts on your doors or shatter-resistant glass or film on your windows? I've been considering a double through bolt for our door... with the handle in the center which shoots two steel bolts 6" into the studs on either side of the door, which would pretty much preclue kicking in the door (or Mr. Bear from busting it in). Of course, at that point, I suspect it would be easier to just come through the wall. But I am still interested in the shatter-proof films for our windows since some of them do keep bullets from completely destorying a window and we live in the boonies with an active hunting season (and Mr. Bear, of course LOL). Have you heard anything about these? Any recommendations?

Nighteyes - unfortunately, my worst home invader is Mr. Bear and I need a slug or 00 buck to deal with him with any chance of success, so no choke on my shotty. Under 25' would be inside the house no matter what unless I was outside... outside 25' is the edge of the tree line, I wouldn't even try to penetrate our forest with birdshot. It all depends on the circumstances
My sliding patio door going onto the rear deck has a bolt installed in such a way the door can not be pried open. The front door and the side door both have heavy metal security locks on them. The office door has an electric deadbolt that opens from the outside with a digital key switch on a short delay timer. I do not have any kind of film on my windows, but only one window is close enough to the ground that it could be used to enter the house. I have nothing on that window to prevent someone from breaking it, but as soon as a person stepped through the window my alarm would trip. Our Sheriff Deputy's know me and where I live, they know I have an alarm, and they know it does not trip often. When they are called, our monitoring company tells them what part of the alarm tripped, or where the alarm tripped. I have heard of films that can be placed on windows, but we also use glass break detectors that work well and are effective to trip an alarm when a window is broken. However, these detectors will not work when film is installed on the glass. If I lived where there was a bear problem I would have wrought iron window grates installed.
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