lubricants

[Mircea]

Originally Posted by Grandpa Pipes

I agree with your brother in part. A drum of 10W30 would be good, but a drum of 5W30 would be better. you know this how?

Why? Less detergent. What a load of crap!

Having said that, 10W30 might actually better due to the fact that you don't know what you will have for solvents. Huh?

The difference between 5W30 and 10W30 is the viscosity of the oil at different temperatures at the high and low end. Reducing the viscosity is achieved through the use of additives, namely petroleum solvents (detergents).

Originally Posted by Grandpa Pipes

Being the Chemistry_Guy you should know that petroleum solvents dissolve petroleum. Mixing something with the 10W30 will thin it out for other uses. My first inclination would be naphtha due to the higher boiling point. BAD advice!

Why is it bad advice? Surely you aren't suggesting naphtha doesn't have a higher boiling point, because that would be silly. Perhaps I was talking over your head since you don't have any knowledge about organic chemistry or petro-chemistry.

After all, you're one of the ones who thought the Keystone pipeline would save America.

Originally Posted by Grandpa Pipes

Other possibilities that may be available would be any white spirits. I'm talking about mineral solvent, turpentine, paraffin and iso-paraffin. Even gasoline would work. Kerosene, any jet fuel, well, the lower grades, probably anything lower than JP-3. Holy cow! Directions on how to ruin your engine?

Um, it's not for the engine. If you had read and understood the OP's question, then you'd know the purpose is to seek lighter solvents for other uses.

No doubt you have no background in law enforcement (like I do) and you don't hang out at target ranges, otherwise you would know what "Bug Juice" is (-- for those who are wondering it's oil or hydraulic fluid cut with petroleum solvents to use as either a lubricant for fire arms or as a cleaning fluid for weapons, depending on what you use to cut the base with).

Originally Posted by Grandpa Pipes

I'm thinking maybe a 4-1 ratio (oil to solvent). Start with that and work around it. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!

Based on what? Your keen scientific insights or your extensive knowledge of oils? You are incredibly one dimensional and a man of no talents. I paint. Usually water colors, but sometimes oil and when I use oil, I usually paint on different surfaces like metal or china/glazed-ceramics.

Motor Oil Medium

• 8 parts 30 weight (non-detergent) motor oil
• 2 parts Signa-Turp (synthetic, odorless thinner)
• 1/2 part Balsam of Copaiba

Now, I don't use "Balsam of Copaiba" (or Signa-Turp whatever the hell those things are), but I'm guessing the balsam functions as a resin (you have to have something to stabilize the oil). I use mineral spirits to cut mine when I paint.



8 parts to 2 parts is a ratio of a 8:2 or 4:1 reduced. I don't exactly have my mobile laboratory with me, but basic common sense dictates that if you have a drum of 10W30, then you pump out a quart, and add maybe 1/2 cup of gasoline, kerosene, turpentine or whatever petroleum solvent you have on hand; mix it; then keep adding until you get it to where you want it.


Refuting...


Mircea

[Nor'Eastah]

Originally Posted by jambo101

If i were planning for a post collapse civilization scenario,i dont think i'd be relying on gasoline powered machines or items that need to be constantly re newed or refilled with modern product. SlingShots, bows and arrows,horses would probably be a more longterm reliable resource.

Agreed.

But the worst of the collapse (if there is one), would be over in about 6-8 months. These things don't last forever. (History tells us that). And the likelihood of OPEC going down at the same time as western countries is rather low. So "product" could still be produced and refined, though perhaps not affordable for most until things settle down.

Meanwhile, vehicles are even more expensive than guns, and I won't be pouring in anything creative during the crisis. I'd rather skip an oil change than put in something not recommended. When we come out of this, it'll be the people who followed manufacturer's recommendations who have the vehicles that still run well.

[wittic]

a very little Lockease graphite or molybdinum disulphide goes a LONG ways in simple mechanisms, like guns. car wax protects exposed surfaces, and in a lot of cases, rust on exterior surfaces is not really a problem.

[RyanR]

No mentions of lubricants/protectors such as Break-Free CLP or Fluid Film?

I wouldn't stick them in my engines but they're great for 1000 other uses.

Break-Free® Gun Cleaners, Solvents, Lubes, & Bluing, Gun Maintenance, Shooting : Cabela's

http://www.fluid-film.com/

[Mac_Muz]

I am not touching this with much..... Mechanic most of my life ....... so far, and each oil or grease has it's uses. I also shoot flintlock guns and can make oils from animal fats which will keep these lubed fine.

That "W" in say 10w-30 means Winter.

Any larger containers stored where temps flux will create water and dirt in the container, and so will common roofing cement. So store these in places where temps tend to stay about the same for longer term.

Barns are about the worst places to store this sort of thing, but please don't ask how I know.