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We all the importance of having good maps in a disaster or survival situation. A compass is a good tool, but is much more useful if you have a map to show you where you are and where you need to get to. A pre-planned route is great, but a map of the area allows you to find alternate routes if you can't access your primary route or it is unnavigable.
Which maps you need are somewhat dependent on your location and your plans. For instance, a topo USGS map is likely less useful for someone trapped in a city than a street map would be; and conversely a street map is likely less useful for someone traveling through the wilderness than a topo USGS map. In any cases, you'll probably need multiple maps to assist you short-term and long-term.
When I lived in the city, I referenced the following maps frequently:
US map - low detail, major highways and points to show entire route and major points
State map - low detail, major highways and points for every state on the route
City street map - low detail, to show entire route and major points for each rendezvous or shelter location
Neighborhood street map(s) - high detail blow ups along the route for each rendezvous or shelter location
Public transportation map(s) - city-wide low detail to show entire route and station locations, high detail blow ups of individual routes and stations, specifically subway or other rail
Public utility map(s) - high & low detail, particularly tunnels like sewers and storm drains
Building evacuation map(s) - for all floors, including parking areas
Topo maps - low detail of the state area surrounding my city/along escape route, high detail of the specific rendezvous and shelter locations along escape routes
Vegetation maps - same detail and locations as the Topos
So, you get the point, that's a lot of maps if you're planning to strike out from work and cross the country to a bug out location. You'd probably only need to carry the building, city and neighborhood maps with you in your EDC kit when you're out and about though. Any others could be kept tucked away in your larger BOB at home or in your vehicle (or duplicates in both!).
Still, that's quite a few maps. So here's what I did (note there are software and online programs to help with this as well):
I gathered all maps and sorted them by detail level/scale.
For smaller maps like building layouts where the route was more important than high detail, I scanned them and shrunk them down to fit on 1-2 double-sided pages of printer paper... as small as was still readable/useful in lower light conditions.
Then I took the larger maps to Kinko's and used the copiers to make all the maps at a specific level the same scale, lining up fixed points of interest and bodies of water helps with this task.
Once I got the maps covering the same area all to the same scale, I selected the most usable map (usually the street map) as the base map and had it printed on opaque paper, then had all the other maps printed on transparency so that I could lay them over the base map.
Then I had the base map laminated to protect it from the elements and tears
Using overlays is an excellent way to have multiple sets of corresponding information available without having a totally cluttered map. So, if I were traveling from my office to my apartment across the surface streets, and encountered a blockage, I could find an alternate route through other streets/alleys, subway tunnels or storm drains if necessary. I could also overlay specific points on the map like the location of hydrants, clinics, hardware and grocery stores, hotels, restaurants, friends, etc.
Overlays also work great for cross-country areas, where the USGS topo maps would be the most useful opaque base map with streets, towns, points of interests, resource access points and vegetation maps as transparent overlays.
You can always make your own specific overlays with a permanent marker and transparency films if you can't find a map to suit your purposes. A sheet protector sleeve with different overlay information on either side, or a double-sided map with an overlay on each side, also works. Use your ingenuity.
Also, be advised that heavy lamination can sometimes be extremely rigid and prevent the map from folding or cause the map to crack at the folds. This can sometimes be avoided by cutting the map into equal pieces and using a flexible laminate to seal the pieces together with a small gap where the folds will be; or alternately, you can treat the map with a flexible sealing agent like AquaSeal as long as it is not printed with water soluble ink.
And some software and online tools that can help you make your own maps and overlays from existing and custom data: Section5 GPS Visualizer
Remember that Kinko's and other print shops can scan, print and copy maps larger than your home equipment. They will also often assist you with sizing and scaling the images, and many offer several lamination and binding options for your custom maps. Some may even have the newer tear and water resistant papers available. The fees are normally quite reasonable, and certainly better than carrying a bulk atlas around with you or having nothing at all.
We all the importance of having good maps in a disaster or survival situation. A compass is a good tool, but is much more useful if you have a map to show you where you are and where you need to get to. A pre-planned route is great, but a map of the area allows you to find alternate routes if you can't access your primary route or it is unnavigable.
Which maps you need are somewhat dependent on your location and your plans. For instance, a topo USGS map is likely less useful for someone trapped in a city than a street map would be; and conversely a street map is likely less useful for someone traveling through the wilderness than a topo USGS map. In any cases, you'll probably need multiple maps to assist you short-term and long-term.
When I lived in the city, I referenced the following maps frequently:
US map - low detail, major highways and points to show entire route and major points
State map - low detail, major highways and points for every state on the route
City street map - low detail, to show entire route and major points for each rendezvous or shelter location
Neighborhood street map(s) - high detail blow ups along the route for each rendezvous or shelter location
Public transportation map(s) - city-wide low detail to show entire route and station locations, high detail blow ups of individual routes and stations, specifically subway or other rail
Public utility map(s) - high & low detail, particularly tunnels like sewers and storm drains
Building evacuation map(s) - for all floors, including parking areas
Topo maps - low detail of the state area surrounding my city/along escape route, high detail of the specific rendezvous and shelter locations along escape routes
Vegetation maps - same detail and locations as the Topos
So, you get the point, that's a lot of maps if you're planning to strike out from work and cross the country to a bug out location. You'd probably only need to carry the building, city and neighborhood maps with you in your EDC kit when you're out and about though. Any others could be kept tucked away in your larger BOB at home or in your vehicle (or duplicates in both!).
Still, that's quite a few maps. So here's what I did (note there are software and online programs to help with this as well):
I gathered all maps and sorted them by detail level/scale.
For smaller maps like building layouts where the route was more important than high detail, I scanned them and shrunk them down to fit on 1-2 double-sided pages of printer paper... as small as was still readable/useful in lower light conditions.
Then I took the larger maps to Kinko's and used the copiers to make all the maps at a specific level the same scale, lining up fixed points of interest and bodies of water helps with this task.
Once I got the maps covering the same area all to the same scale, I selected the most usable map (usually the street map) as the base map and had it printed on opaque paper, then had all the other maps printed on transparency so that I could lay them over the base map.
Then I had the base map laminated to protect it from the elements and tears
Using overlays is an excellent way to have multiple sets of corresponding information available without having a totally cluttered map. So, if I were traveling from my office to my apartment across the surface streets, and encountered a blockage, I could find an alternate route through other streets/alleys, subway tunnels or storm drains if necessary. I could also overlay specific points on the map like the location of hydrants, clinics, hardware and grocery stores, hotels, restaurants, friends, etc.
Overlays also work great for cross-country areas, where the USGS topo maps would be the most useful opaque base map with streets, towns, points of interests, resource access points and vegetation maps as transparent overlays.
You can always make your own specific overlays with a permanent marker and transparency films if you can't find a map to suit your purposes. A sheet protector sleeve with different overlay information on either side, or a double-sided map with an overlay on each side, also works. Use your ingenuity.
Also, be advised that heavy lamination can sometimes be extremely rigid and prevent the map from folding or cause the map to crack at the folds. This can sometimes be avoided by cutting the map into equal pieces and using a flexible laminate to seal the pieces together with a small gap where the folds will be; or alternately, you can treat the map with a flexible sealing agent like AquaSeal as long as it is not printed with water soluble ink.
And some software and online tools that can help you make your own maps and overlays from existing and custom data: Section5 GPS Visualizer
Remember that Kinko's and other print shops can scan, print and copy maps larger than your home equipment. They will also often assist you with sizing and scaling the images, and many offer several lamination and binding options for your custom maps. Some may even have the newer tear and water resistant papers available. The fees are normally quite reasonable, and certainly better than carrying a bulk atlas around with you or having nothing at all.
I used to do orienteering competitions and adventure racers which required a good deal of map reading. Three other thoughts to add to your great post:
1. I would definitely have the maps printed on waterproof paper. Over time and a good deal of abuse these maps will eventually wear out but waterproof paper is much stronger than regular paper and doesn't smudge like regular paper does if it gets wet (and may be easier to use than stiff laminated maps).
2. You can buy map cases in different sizes to protect the maps even further
3. Having the maps and being able to READ the maps (particularly in a crisis situation when you want to get out of Dodge quickly) are two different things. At least two people in your group need to be able to read them (both in the daytime and at night), understand them, be able to communicate direction (which also entails KNOWING direction). It requires regular practice.
OK.....4 thoughts.
Definitely a good idea to mark routes on your maps (in different colors for different routes - and yellow highlighter shows up badly at night BTW). (yes learned the hard way).
Last edited by juneaubound; 04-14-2012 at 12:10 AM..
Yes, I've run into the highlighter issue myself once or twice... make sure you test whatever you use to highlight your maps with the lighting you plan to have in your pack since it's not uncommon for different colors to be either invisible or opaque under chem lights & glow sticks.
Sometimes rolling your maps is preferable to folding them, especially if they are large. There are several cylindrical map cases available that have their own straps, can be clipped to existing packs, or can be integrated into other equipment (like a hollow trekking pole).
Two more tiny things:
1. Magnetic Declination -- please, please, please understand this phenomenon, how it impacts orienteering and how to adjust your compass and readings! Do NOT rely solely on a compass that you can't adjust for declination if your plans include any significant change in latitude. Most maps use geographic/true north, while compasses work on magnetic north... they are not the same.
2. Landmarks & Triangulation -- if you must rely on a non-adjustable compass (like the 20 mm button compasses in most survival kits), make sure you mark any highly visible and durable landmarks on your map, so you can verify your readings via triangulation and adjust your path as necessary. This will also greatly assist you when traveling through areas with localized magnetic interference (like heavy iron rock formations and high-voltage power stations) that can affect your compass readings.
Which maps you need are somewhat dependent on your location and your plans. For instance, a topo USGS map is likely less useful for someone trapped in a city than a street map would be; and conversely a street map is likely less useful for someone traveling through the wilderness than a topo USGS map.
That isn't true at all. Having used USGS maps to rain fire and steel on people, they are the best thing going.
As you can see from this USGS map section, all buildings, structures and roads are clearly marked.
I chose this specific map because as you can see in the upper right had corner with the numeral "29" there is an abandoned road.
There was a bridge at that location on the Great Miami, but no longer. The new bridge is now south of the village of New Baltimore.
Note the slope of the hills on the south bank of the Great Miami. Contrast that with the gentle sloping terrain leading to Camp Fort Scott in the upper left hand corner of the map. Also, note how the buildings are arranged in an horseshoe pattern at Camp Fort Scott.
This image of Washington Park where I live is quite useful.
In addition to showing all roads, including alleys and alley ways, it shows public buildings were people are likely to congregate in times of any disaster, specifically the county courthouse, the YMCA, and the numbers churches that dot the area, plus the public schools.
It also shows open areas, such as Washington Park, and the large open area (due to a large car park) near one of the churches.
I wasn't saying that topo maps weren't useful, just that they may be less useful for someone ON FOOT trying to navigate their way through an urban area than a street map. And most people are familiar with street maps and the information contained on them, and will be relying on road signs and billboards. The amount and type of information contained on a topo map may be confusing and overwhelming to an average person in an emergency situation.
Consider these two examples of the same grid:
And there isn't a topo available for the zoom level required to actually get the majority of street names and so you can determine exactly where you are by looking at the road sign or building address right in front of you:
That isn't true at all. Having used USGS maps to rain fire and steel on people, they are the best thing going.
As you can see from this USGS map section, all buildings, structures and roads are clearly marked.
I chose this specific map because as you can see in the upper right had corner with the numeral "29" there is an abandoned road.
There was a bridge at that location on the Great Miami, but no longer. The new bridge is now south of the village of New Baltimore.
Note the slope of the hills on the south bank of the Great Miami. Contrast that with the gentle sloping terrain leading to Camp Fort Scott in the upper left hand corner of the map. Also, note how the buildings are arranged in an horseshoe pattern at Camp Fort Scott.
This image of Washington Park where I live is quite useful.
In addition to showing all roads, including alleys and alley ways, it shows public buildings were people are likely to congregate in times of any disaster, specifically the county courthouse, the YMCA, and the numbers churches that dot the area, plus the public schools.
It also shows open areas, such as Washington Park, and the large open area (due to a large car park) near one of the churches.
Topographically...
Mircea
USGS topo maps typically do not show towns in detail.
My best suggestions for people who are not used to using maps would be:
1. get a hold of the maps you will need to get from where you are to where you want to be
2. mark at least two escape routes out of town on your map (using different color highlighters than can be seen easily both in daylight and with head lamp, and that do not obscure other features along the route)
3. practice getting out of town ie. reading the street map, and practice giving directions and receiving directions
4. many people have little to no experience reading a topo map. Get the ones you need to get where you want to go if/when you bug out, but also get maps for places that are closer to home so that you can practice reading them and finding your way in the woods before it all hits the fan.
Many state parks/national forests/natural areas have topo maps of their parks that you can pick up at the visitors center. If not you can buy them easily enough at USGS. Look at the map closely. Study it and become familiar with its markings - the scale of the map, the age of the map, the contour lines, elevation, declination, hills, saddles, spurs, where the paved roads are, where the gravel roads and trails are, where the power line trails are, where north is, where there are man made structures. It's all on the map and you would be well served to become familiar with what they look like. It's just like learning a new language (only not as difficult )
Go for day hikes (or even for a couple of hours) and practice reading maps, identifying features, finding your way, knowing where you are at all times based on the map and your physical surroundings. Practice following along on the map (using your thumb to mark "where you are") as you reach specific landmarks you have been shooting for as you go. The more you do this the more comfortable you will be with the whole thing.
Consider going to a beginner orienteering class - there are orienteering clubs in many locations, outdoor stores such as REI often hold them, community colleges sometimes hold them as do state parks. A one day or half day or two hour training would help to make sense of it all if it sounds too complicated. There are also a ton of videos on Youtube (just plug in "map reading" or "map and compass") that are very good and address all levels of experience from none to advanced.
Age of the map is more important than you might think. The most recent topos for my particular grid are over 7 years old and are now incorrect, both man-made and natural features have changed significantly enough to be problematic for detail orienteering... you could probably find your way to the rough square mile where my cabin is located, but I doubt you'd find my doorstep. Maps for more highly populated/traveled areas are updated more frequently, and (printed) road maps tend to be updated more frequently than topo maps.
Also be aware that the presence of certain facilities may lead to inaccuracy/limited detail in all forms of maps and aerial photos. Most commonly these will be military bases and government complexes... for example, the maps I posted above for Fairbanks are not entirely accurate because specific information related to Ft. Wainwright has been omitted.
Age of the map is more important than you might think. The most recent topos for my particular grid are over 7 years old and are now incorrect, both man-made and natural features have changed significantly enough to be problematic for detail orienteering... you could probably find your way to the rough square mile where my cabin is located, but I doubt you'd find my doorstep. Maps for more highly populated/traveled areas are updated more frequently, and (printed) road maps tend to be updated more frequently than topo maps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MissingAll4Seasons
Two more tiny things:
1. Magnetic Declination -- please, please, please understand this phenomenon, how it impacts orienteering and how to adjust your compass and readings! Do NOT rely solely on a compass that you can't adjust for declination if your plans include any significant change in latitude. Most maps use geographic/true north, while compasses work on magnetic north... they are not the same.
These two points tie together as well.
A lot of maps (the USGS ones for sure) will have declination on them, but unless your maps are brand new, you'll have to do a bit of math to get your declination right.
Generally, there's a rate of change listed under the declination itself. Finding the correct number is as simple as multiplying the rate of change by the age of the map - treat decreasing declination as a negative in the equation.
It's worth mentioning that a map may have varying declinations across it, as well, particularly if it covers a large area.
Yeah, our declination is extreme - nearly 20 degrees east and increasing roughly 20 minutes a year. An old map and a bad compass, coupled with the magnetic interference from all the mountains and you could easily end up at entirely the wrong river. Seriously, this actually happened to some hikers the year we moved here... good thing both rivers eventually intersect, but it did put them nearly 30 miles off their expected rendezvous point.
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(yes learned the hard way). 
)
