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We live in a forest of Oaks and they are constantly launching limbs/missiles at us!
As you can see from the pictures ... A giant oak attacked my shed!
Fortunately, it was the shed and not our house!
(We just had both the shed and the house re-roofed.)
Since it is the shed ... I am going to 'attempt' to fix the damage myself.
Here is what I am going to do and I would like to ask any roofers (or former roofers) their advice before I start?
1) Remove limb .. (Not rocket science)
2) Cut a thin square (5"x5") of wood and using Titebond Ultimate 111 wood glue, attach it to inside of roof.
3) Outside I plan to use leak stopper Rubber Flex Sealant to waterproof the hole. (It's the spray on kind)
4) Next, I plan to cover the hole (outside) with Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal Tape.
The next part is where I need the most help!
I have leftover asphalt shingles from the roofing jobs that were done but I don't know the best way to attach the replacement piece?
I hate thinking that I'll need to nail it because of nail holes?
Can I glue the shingle in place?
Thank You for any help you can provide.
(I bolded the material names that I am using for feedback purposes only)
There is a lot riding on this ... my Better Half has promised me a slice of this gorgeous pie!(last photo) If I somehow manage to not make things worse than they are!
If you replace the entire damaged shingle/s, nails are definitely the way to go. If those are 3 tab seal down shingles, you may end up replacing several since they seal together and you may not be able to replace just one.
If I were you, I'd probably back the replacement plug with a strip of OSB spanning from rafter to rafter and a couple inches wider than the hole to prevent the plug coming loose and leaking in the future.
If you want a permanent fix, you would need to replace the whole sheet that has the hole and redo your shingles. That's the only way to regain the original integrity of your roof.
If you replace the entire damaged shingle/s, nails are definitely the way to go. If those are 3 tab seal down shingles, you may end up replacing several since they seal together and you may not be able to replace just one.
If I were you, I'd probably back the replacement plug with a strip of OSB spanning from rafter to rafter and a couple inches wider than the hole to prevent the plug coming loose and leaking in the future.
If you want a permanent fix, you would need to replace the whole sheet that has the hole and redo your shingles. That's the only way to regain the original integrity of your roof.
Good luck.
Thank You MTSilvertip for your help.
Dumb questions?
What is a 3 tab seal down shingle?
What is OSB?
Since it is only a shed, I doubt that I'll have the whole board and shingles replaced.
OSB is oriented strand board, the panels that sheet your roof and the shingles are nailed to.
Most asphalt shingles fall intimate 2 categories, 3 tab or T lock. 3 tab when you look at your replacement shingles, have a long back with 3 tabs on the lower edge.
Basically the same as 3 tab, the repair techniques are the same.
Easily I think, since you can patch a small section and alignment of the tabs isn't an issue.
What you describe in 1-4 is fine, little overkill if anything.
To get the old shingle bottom edges to raise up (you'll find they have sealed down if they've been up more than a few months of hot weather), I use a wide, flat pry bar (the long end, not the curved end) like this up under the bottom edges of the row of shingles above to carefully loosen, (don't tear, the shingle in the course above, or you be replacing it too !) then expose the nails of the damaged shingle. ( bar flipped over from this view)
Shingles have a self sealing tar strip on the back of them that heats up with sun exposure and sorta 'glues' them together...that is what you're trying to break loose with the bar. I find it's best on a day the shingles are fairly warm from the sun and fairly flexible.....just go slow and easy....don't get in a hurry.
Then a 'cat's paw' bar like this to dig out the nails. Hammer the long end under the nail and pop it up. Remove the 3 or 4 nails in the damaged shingle (and you probably will have to remove nails from the next row up as well as it usually holds the top of the shingle you want to remove), then simply slide out/down the damaged shingle. May need to slide the flat bar under the damaged shingle if it sticks the course below. If it doesn't slide out fairly easy, you missed a nail that is hanging you up.
Once you have the old one out, simply slide a new one in place, hold the course above upward and re-nail using 1 1/4" roofing nails in about the same spots as the previous nails were located.
"4) Next, I plan to cover the hole (outside) with Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal Tape."
I would use Versa roofing tape. It's specifically for roofing repairs and it sticks under water. If you should accidentally let the sticky side touch more sticky side you will never get them apart. It's near the duct tape at Home Depot.
Howdy claymoore,
Make sure the materials you are repairing are completely dry.
Instead of a repair piece on the inside of roof (5"x5"), i think i would use a piece of plywood 12"x12" or a piece of about similar dimensions of solid wood 1"x12".....11.5"x11.5"
Shim up a few lengths of 2"x4" to hold the repair piece firmly against the ceiling until the glue dries completely.
On the outside of roof install some roofing felt to the damaged area, then install the number of 3 tab glue type shingles needed to repair damaged area.
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