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At this mileage, there's several typical wear items that show up in this series of car:
1) Top end of engine wear; ie, generally needs a valve job. The bottom end of this motor will generally go a lot more miles, but the valve guides wear out and the valve guide seals fail so the valves/seats also will require cleaning up/regrinding/refacing. The top end is a very likely source of the oil consumption of this engine if there are no external leaks.
2) Timing chain wear/stretch has usually worn out and requires replacement of the chain, tensioner, and guide rails. It's not uncommon to see these chains wear through the timing cover area of the engine, a very serious and expensive failure if it goes that far. It's timely to replace the chain and related items when the cylinder head is off for the valve job.
3) Brake master cylinders are worth replacing with a new item, but the steering rack is not. There's enough of these cars hitting the boneyards that a serviceable replacement steering rack assembly should be available for nominal money. Flat rate time to replace it is around 5 hours. At that, I'd want a second opinion about whether or not it needs replacement. If the problem is seeping seals causing fluid loss, then the rack seals can be inexpensively replaced along with the boots. Power steering pumps aren't a high failure rate item for these cars, either ... so a second opinion might be worthwhile on this item, too. At that, a boneyard replacement item would be a reasonable way to deliver more service life from this car.
My overall concern with spending money on this car now for the items and at the price points quoted by the "mechanic" is that they may be missing larger expense items that are needing repairs ... while quoting top dollar for some items that may not need to be repaired, at least not with the expenses that they have quoted.
You need to consider how many dollars will go into this car at this time to give additional service life vs what the car is worth in the marketplace today. If you're looking at spending a lot of money to get useable remaining service life, it may be money better spent on acquiring a car with lower mileage and more remaining service life at a lower cost.
I'd suggest that you get a 2nd opinion about the mechanicals needed to keep this car on the road from an independent shop that specializes in this make.
Assuming it needs all that stuff, if you plan to drive it for the next 5-10 years, it could be worth it.
My 99 Avalon burns oil, too (225k miles), but not so much Im getting rid of it. It drives too well. The point about Toyotas consuming oil at high mileages is true. Just depends on what you are willing to tolerate. Mine only burns about a quart b/w changes so its not too severe (yet!).
I don't call anything that doesn't require engine/xsmn teardown a 'major' repair, but *shrug*
What happens if the sludge in the engine is the only thing giving you compression? I have heard stories of people using engine flush only to end up with a car that won't start because there is no compression. These are major repairs. The business of automotive repair relies both on labor and parts markup to make money. When you use their parts there is usually a parts and labor warranty on the repair. If you provide your own parts and the part fails then you get to pay the mechanic labor again to do the repair after you replace the parts. The amount you will put into this old car would make a nice down payment on another car.
First find out where the engine oil is going. If it's being burned then you are also looking at an engine rebuild/replacement (my guess at 189,000 is it needs a rebuilt engine) Or it could be a bad oil leak.
Find out BEFORE you spend a dime other repairs. Your mechanic can run a compression test for burning and a real good look with a bright light for a leak.
If all is Ok then consider the overall shape of the body and interior. If you find them to acceptable and you are willing to drive the car out then spend the money to make the car mechanically sound again. It's way cheaper in the long run to repair a good solid car than to buy another car new or used.
Remember repair the car ONLY if you're willing to drive it till it's totally consumed.
Well the mechanic already told me i have a small leak somewhere, but its not that bad. I usually have to check the oil every 2 weeks. It doesnt bother me much but i will ask my mechanic to do a compression test to see just HOW serious the leak is.
I am surprised no one else has said this....keep the car, fix it with the exception of the rack and pinion. Disconnect the power steering. With a car that light you do not need it, and it is certainly not worth paying hundreds of dollars on it. It looks like the rack and pinion is the bulk of your repair bill. My Ford Escort does not have power steering, and I do just fine without it.
Ok, explain how my car doesn't need the power steering?
the rack and pinion will cost the most. just for all the parts alone, its over 1000, then you got to pay for labor. I would not do it personally, and I fix my own cars. its not really worth it, I would sell it on craigslist for 500 dollars or sell the car for scrap metal. You can sell it on craigslist for more money and screw someone over, but I would not do that personally.
The entire job will cost 1200 with everything included.
Well it is the CV (constant velocity axles and that could be a safety issue. The oil is going somewhere. I would check the PCV "valve", make sure it is not clogged, that is a $5 fix for oil burning issues.
Why do you need a cat converter? Do you have a check engine light?
What is wrong with the master cylinder?
Based on the info you have given, I am suspicious that either the mechanic is taking you for a ride, or is overzealous and is looking for perfection in an old car.
I would fix stuff that is a safety issue (CV, brakes), if the rack is leaking oil I will just top it off, watch the engine oil. It has been said that $1100 per year is a good estimate for a car of that vintage for yearly repairs. Some years are going to be better-some worse.
How much can you get for the car? Can you buy a newer used car with the $$ needed for repairs? You don't have much to loose, just drive it until some major part gives up.
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Well, the cat converter has been giving me problems for years. Before I did not have the mone to replace it. Apparently, the cat converter is damaging one of oxygen sensors, so I would like to get it repaired. I looked only and for a MagnaFlow cat con is 95$ and 60$ to weld. However the mechanic says for a cat con with labor its 204$.
The master cylinder needed replacing because my brake pedal would sink to the floor when i was at a stoplight. I had it replaced this weekend for 148$. (My brakes are good and recently replaced)
I considered getting a used car. BUT i do not want to deal with these problems if i am going to buy another car. In my opinion, I think my car is ok for another year or so. And yes, i found another mechanic that will give me a second opinion on the other repairs.
Last edited by valaireuh; 03-25-2012 at 07:27 PM..
If you cannot do the mechanical work yourself, I think you should put it on Craigslist for about $1,000. Sell it for perhaps $800-$850.
The person who's going to buy it is a guy like me, who can do the work and will only have the cost of parts in the repairs. He's also going to know whether or not you're being 'fed a line' about the rack & pinion, and some other expensive repairs your 'mechanic' advised you to do.
It did seem out of nowhere that my rack and pinion needed replacing. He did show me where the damage was, although I am not a mechanic so i didnt know what i was looking at.
What are the signs of damage to the rack and pinion?
I have a 1998 toyota corolla VE with 189,000 miles. This year the car needs major repairs: master cylinder, rack and pinion, power steering pump and front right civic axel AND a catalytic converter.
Now the mechanic I went to qouted me a price for the civic axel at 130$. Then for the master cylinder, rack/pinion, pump : 1100.00$
He also suggested I go to a muffler shop and ask for an AFTER MARKET catalytic converter and it should cost me 180-200$.
Now my dilemma is should i go through with this? The engine runs fine. My transmission is fine. The oil does run out fast but ive read that happens to toyota corolla. the car has bumps and scratches on it but it doesnt bother me .
What should I do?
Is this a good price to fix these problems?
Should I try buying the parts on my own and only pay for labor?
Is there a chance that more repairs may appear??
Help.
OK an update and a more details.
I went to replace my master cylinder and paid 148.00$ NOT BAD.
The cat con is 204$ to replace.
My 'plan' was to fix up the car (paint job, replacing bumps and scratches, fix engine parts, etc) and sell the car. I already got front and back struts replaced, a new starter, a timing belt a couple of years back, tire rods, 2 oxygen sensors, exhuast manifold (the car used to be super loud) and replaced the windshield because it had a huge crack in it (for years).
The car needs a new bumber and fender with a paint job.
I decided that every month that I dont get a new car, i will fix one repair on the car. I also am going to a 2nd mechanic so he can give me a better idea about these repairs.
My next repair is going to be my cat converter (204$) so my check engine light will turn off.
I called a few places and they said the price im getting for all the repairs is reasonable. HOWEVER, ill post to see what the 2nd mechanic says.
Ok, explain how my car doesn't need the power steering?
because your car is light enough that you can still steer your car, but you just have to steer harder. people have done this to their civics to save weight, and on a couple of civics that I owned, the car did not come with power steering because its a light car. A corolla is a light car, "Las vegas drunk" was trying to brainstorm to help you save money.
your post here in the first place is to ask if its worth it to fix your car. "las vegas drunk" made a good point for you to save money.
Last edited by civic94; 03-26-2012 at 12:20 AM..
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