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I have an 2011 Toyota corolla S
I had my front brakes and rotors replaced in the last year three times at a mechanic shop
after driving 5k to 10k the steering shakes badly while breaking, mechanic checked the calipers and they do function properly
I was told its could be the calipers but the mechanic says it is fine it function properly
I do drive a lot 30 to 40 K per year
I have a Japanese manufactured car not North American
I have used the correct J code for the parts with Wagner ceramic pads even though I did try the North American ones with no luck
I have tried to cut the rotors that did not help the pulsation came back in a shorter time
the front end was checked twice, and the two shops that checked it said every think looks good
most of my driving is freeways
One auto parts shop mentioned that the caliper could do this even though it works properly!! I did not try this yet
do you know what that could be..... any ideas?
Thanks
This is caused by run out in the brake rotors which after a few thousands miles wear the rotors thinner in spots and causes thickness variation of the rotor causing the brake to pulsate.
Since you've replaced the rotors several times, the run out is probably in the wheel hub. This can be measured with a dial indicator and there's a specified max usually around 0.003 run out. You will have to turn or replace the rotors AND replace the wheel hub(s) that have run out, or find a shop with an on-the-car brake lathe. This will true the runout at the rotor caused by the hub and you won't have to replace the wheel hub.
Whenever I do a brake job, I generally replace the rotors at the same time as the pads. Not always, but most times. I find it does not cost that much more, and you end up with much better braking.
I agree with the poster above about checking runout. A rusty hub face can make the rotor spin untrue and cause vibrations. A proper brake job involves cleaning the hub face and properly greasing the pins and contact points.
And what about the rears? Worn rotors on the back can also cause vibration when braking.
And here is your problem. Ceramic pads made by any brake pad brand pushes all of the heat energy into the rotors. The excess heat is warping the rotors. Unless you actually need ceramic pads, as in a racing application, you have the wrong pads. The brakes work by turning the forward motion into heat. With normal brake parts, the pads and rotors share the heat energy. With ceramic pads, all of the heat is shoved into the rotors. To have ceramic brake pads, you need to have drilled and slotted rotors to keep the rotors from burning up. For most cars, ceramic pads are a step backwards. They require more brake pedal input and are hard on all of the surrounding parts. Put the semi-metallic pads on(Wagner Thermo-quiets are good ones), have the current rotors turned or put new on and call it good. Your problem will go away.
Rotors made in China. As soon as you have a good panic stop, they warp. Your mechanic will just replace them with more rotors from China, so you get the same result.
And here is your problem. Ceramic pads made by any brake pad brand pushes all of the heat energy into the rotors. The excess heat is warping the rotors. Unless you actually need ceramic pads, as in a racing application, you have the wrong pads. The brakes work by turning the forward motion into heat. With normal brake parts, the pads and rotors share the heat energy. With ceramic pads, all of the heat is shoved into the rotors. To have ceramic brake pads, you need to have drilled and slotted rotors to keep the rotors from burning up. For most cars, ceramic pads are a step backwards. They require more brake pedal input and are hard on all of the surrounding parts. Put the semi-metallic pads on(Wagner Thermo-quiets are good ones), have the current rotors turned or put new on and call it good. Your problem will go away.
^^^^^^
My first hand experience with ceramics. Will ALWAYS use semi-metallic, metallic or organic pads from now on. Once I got rid of the ceramics, pulsation was gone. I also found my rear pads being extremely worn causing the pulsation coming out of the mts. Replaced the rears and pulsation gone.
I also replace my pads before they reach the bottom of the middle U cut that indicates nearing replacement.
1. OP never bedded in rotors after install. Common ignorance mistake. As the result, new rotors built up uneven brake pad material, causing brake related vibration.
2. educate yourselves and stop that myth about warped rotors https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedia...c-8-2018_1.pdf
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