Possible Relocation to Tulsa - A Little Advice (Bell, Pittsburg: school, restaurants)
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I have lived off and on just SW of Pittsburgh in Greene Country for the last 3 years, I'm in the pipeline business. So I have kind of relationship with both cities.
There are so many differences between Houston, Pittsburgh and Tulsa so it makes it hard to sort out. Pittsburgh is a much larger city than Tulsa and would have a lot of amenities you would be accustom in Houston. And the great thing about that part of the county is everything is close together. Many other great American cities are less than a days drive away. I found the people in Pittsburgh to be very friendly easy to become friends with, but I have found that to be true everywhere I have lived, so maybe I'm just a nice guy...LOL
Pittsburgh is a very hilly city, I think it's the hilliest city in the US. At first I fell in love with the hills and trees but after a few months I started getting claustrophobic, seems like I was in a hole. And it seemed like it took forever to get around because you were always having to drive around the terrain. And the people seemed to drive a lot slower than they do here in Texas and Oklahoma. I would get on the freeways and even though they were not crowed at the time, the traffic seemed to move about 45 to 50 mph. And the top speed in PA is 65 even in the rural areas.
Pittsburgh is a very old city, it was a Great American City long before Houston and Tulsa even got established. So there are some very cool old neighborhoods. Pittsburgh has a very active club and restaurant area that is just south and east of downtown. There is nothing like it in Houston or Tulsa. Pittsburgh has a light rail and bus system. And every little store and gas station sells these little pepperoni rolls, I loved them! Their downtown has a lot more going on than Tulsa or Houston. Pittsburgh is gong to offer a lot more than Tulsa because of the size difference.
Even though Tulsa is not nearly as big Pittsburgh there are a lot of things I like better about Tulsa. Tulsa may not be quite as green or as hilly as Pittsburgh but the sun shines a lot more here than Pittsburgh. In the winter it seemed you hardly every see the sun, and in the summer it seemed every morning was foggy. But the summers are much more milder than in Tulsa but the winters really really suck and last a long time! LOL And I hope I don't set anyone off, but it seemed I heard the N word tossed around way too often. This really surprised me being from the South. I can't even tell you the last time I heard that word here in Tulsa. And I am far from being a prude, and I do work in the pipeline construction business, I'm far from being a sensitive guy, but I got so tired of hearing the F bomb dropped at least 2 or 3 times in every sentence. More than once we even had waiters drop it. And Tulsa is a much cleaner city and laid out better.
That being said, I really liked Pittsburgh and was surprised what a it had to offer, but was really glad to get back home. I think you should do a lot of research and a plan a few days in each city and see which one fits you.
I have lived off and on just SW of Pittsburgh in Greene Country for the last 3 years, I'm in the pipeline business. So I have kind of relationship with both cities.
There are so many differences between Houston, Pittsburgh and Tulsa so it makes it hard to sort out. Pittsburgh is a much larger city than Tulsa and would have a lot of amenities you would be accustom in Houston. And the great thing about that part of the county is everything is close together. Many other great American cities are less than a days drive away. I found the people in Pittsburgh to be very friendly easy to become friends with, but I have found that to be true everywhere I have lived, so maybe I'm just a nice guy...LOL
Pittsburgh is a very hilly city, I think it's the hilliest city in the US. At first I fell in love with the hills and trees but after a few months I started getting claustrophobic, seems like I was in a hole. And it seemed like it took forever to get around because you were always having to drive around the terrain. And the people seemed to drive a lot slower than they do here in Texas and Oklahoma. I would get on the freeways and even though they were not crowed at the time, the traffic seemed to move about 45 to 50 mph. And the top speed in PA is 65 even in the rural areas.
Pittsburgh is a very old city, it was a Great American City long before Houston and Tulsa even got established. So there are some very cool old neighborhoods. Pittsburgh has a very active club and restaurant area that is just south and east of downtown. There is nothing like it in Houston or Tulsa. Pittsburgh has a light rail and bus system. And every little store and gas station sells these little pepperoni rolls, I loved them! Their downtown has a lot more going on than Tulsa or Houston. Pittsburgh is gong to offer a lot more than Tulsa because of the size difference.
Even though Tulsa is not nearly as big Pittsburgh there are a lot of things I like better about Tulsa. Tulsa may not be quite as green or as hilly as Pittsburgh but the sun shines a lot more here than Pittsburgh. In the winter it seemed you hardly every see the sun, and in the summer it seemed every morning was foggy. But the summers are much more milder than in Tulsa but the winters really really suck and last a long time! LOL And I hope I don't set anyone off, but it seemed I heard the N word tossed around way too often. This really surprised me being from the South. I can't even tell you the last time I heard that word here in Tulsa. And I am far from being a prude, and I do work in the pipeline construction business, I'm far from being a sensitive guy, but I got so tired of hearing the F bomb dropped at least 2 or 3 times in every sentence. More than once we even had waiters drop it. And Tulsa is a much cleaner city and laid out better.
That being said, I really liked Pittsburgh and was surprised what a it had to offer, but was really glad to get back home. I think you should do a lot of research and a plan a few days in each city and see which one fits you.
Hah, hah. People in the North East are, shall we say, a little rougher around the edges sometimes! I wouldn't put up with N-bombs but everything else doesn't bother me. My first job in DC I worked with a bunch of ex-Navy guys so I picked it up. Maybe it is something about being close to the water? My wife, who grew up around New Orleans, is worse than me!
To be perfectly honest, if I had to choose Tulsa, Pittsburgh or really even Houston from a purely blank slate, I would likely go with Pittsburgh only because I still have a lot of great friends (probably my best friends) back east in DC, Philly and New York. Although I have never been to Pittsburgh, I am familiar with that area and generally know where stuff is located. We used to go skiing southeast of Pittsburgh when I lived in DC and, being a big history nerd, I used to visit a lot of the Civil War battlefields in and around the MidAtlantic region not too far from Pittsburgh.
But....and this is the big but...the potential position in Pittsburgh is probably more of a long shot than the potential position in Tulsa. I am still working out everything and they both may still fall through but the Tulsa position likely will pay a lot more (with a good chunk of equity as well).
So, that is why I am looking at Tulsa. Like I said, I know basically nothing about Tulsa other than it is located in Oklahoma. Frankly (and don't take this personally), I was a little skeptical when I first heard where the position was located but from what I have learned so far, it seems like a nice place with some great little areas. The apparent lack of rentals in the areas that people have pointed out worries me a bit and the fact that there is essentially zero public transit makes me none too happy but I am used to that in Houston (even if I hate it). I am also worried about plane connections since my wife and I like to travel a lot.
Anyway, couple of additional questions:
Since I am a history nerd, what museums are in Tulsa? Are there any historical sites nearby (i.e. day-trip distance)?
What are the nearest and most popular outdoor recreation sites? It looks like there are a ton of lakes around there. On the map it also looks like there are also some national recreational areas across the border in Arkansas. Is this a mountainous area similar to the Appalachians? Hiking? Camping? Similarly I know NOTHING about Arkansas (don't think I have ever set foot in that state yet).
Thanks again.
Last edited by Chicken_of_Bristol; 07-11-2013 at 06:57 AM..
Hey C-O-B, when you were in skiing SE of Pittsburg did you ever make it down to Falling Water? I got a chance to go there last year and I must say It is on of the most incredible places I have ever been, and to think it was built over 80 years ago.
Before anyone tries to sell you on Tulsa you have to remember, the Tulsa metro area is right at one million, just 1/6th the size of Houston. So what may seem big and exciting to us may be small and boring to you. I used to work for a company out of Jersey Village so I spent some time in Houston. One thing I noticed about Houston or any other huge city, is as you drive around it looked like Tulsa and then like Tulsa and then like Tulsa... I guess what I'm saying if you were dropped down most anywhere in Houston you would think you were in Tulsa or OKC or KC. It's just where we may have 5 Lowe's or Best Buys Houston may have 20. There will be a lot of amenities that Houston, with a metro area of over 6 million will have, that we won't. But I wouldn't say Tulsa have 1/6th the amenities of Houston. But that being said, Tulsa is not Houston or anything near it.
Tulsa actually has two world class museums, Philbrook and Gilcrease and a great Jewish History museum and tons of other places in the metro like Tulsa Air and Space Museum, Woolaroc, JM Davis Gun Museum, Okla Jazz Hall of fame....Museums are Tulsa strong card.
As far as outdoor activities, there is a lot of action inside the city of Tulsa. Turkey MT has one of the best urban mountain biking in the region with some very challenging trails. Repelling is popular at Chandler park. There are lakes and streams all around Tulsa. The closest nice lake is Skiatook, it's 15 miles north of downtown and its in historic Osage County, which makes me kind of think of our version of Texas's Hill Country.
The foothills of the Ozarks are just 40 miles east of downtown Tulsa. Some of our best lakes are found there. Grand,Tenkiller,Ft Gibson, Hudson, Spavinaw, Eucha and many crystal clear streams. The terrain here will remind you a lot of hills in SW PA. some of the taller peaks are around 1,800' .Lots of hiking and camping in these areas. These lakes and streams are in the Cherokee Nation. The Cherokee people were a intelligent and a very productive society in the South East part of the US. You will think differently about Andrew Jackson after studying about the removal (ethnic cleansing) of the 5 Civilized Tribes.
On further South you start running into the Ouachita Mountains in the Choctaw Nation. These Mountains are just like what you would see in Northern GA. These Mountain reach about 2,600 ft with the valley areas being around 600 ft, so there is some nice peaks. There are some very challenging hiking trails and great camping. Ouachita National Forest is the main park down there. The Ouachitas are very remote and rugged and sparsely populated, you can drive from Hartshorn to Talahina, 35 miles, and not go through one single town, you can really get a way from it all down there. Broken Bow lake is the main lake down there and is the most beautiful lake in Oklahoma. The waters are very cool and clear. Lots of wildlife in that part of the state. It is the very NW habitat for the North American Alligator, and you have to be careful of black bears, but the real danger is the wild boars. Lots of Texans vacation in this area.
That area is very historic in a unique way. In the town of Heavner you will find the Heavner Runestones, many think the Vikings carved symbols in this huge rock. Looks like it to me! Poteau is home to Mt Cavanal, the worlds tallest hill...I'm not making this up! LOL And Spiro is home to the Spiro Mounds, a pre Columbian mound works.
Another interesting fact, you can take an ocean going boat from Tulsa's Port of Catoosa and sail all the way to Pittsburg or Houston, not joking! I think what will surprise the most about Eastern Oklahoma is how much terrain you will encounter. Here is a picture of the Ouachita's in Laflore County Oklahoma.
Picture is beautiful! I want to go there even if the job doesn't work out. Houston is so flat and disgusting. I miss mountains and nice terrain like that. It reminds me a lot of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Pretty amazing that you see that type of landscape in the middle of the country!
We used to go to Seven Springs a couple of times a year. A lot of Pittsburgh people would ski there. It was East Coast skiing (not the best), but it was nice to have a place you could drive for the weekend if there was a decent storm. There were a couple of mountains (or maybe I should say a mountain or hill), even closer to DC right near Gettysburg, PA. If there was a big storm we would wake up on Saturday morning, have breakfast and then drive there to ski for the afternoon. It took about two hours depending on traffic and the mountain was just big enough to keep you entertained for an afternoon session (cheaper than the whole day pass as well). We would leave and be back in DC by that evening to go out (if we weren't too tired).
On that point, it looks like New Mexico and Colorado are not that far away from Tulsa. I miss skiing...A LOT. It takes forever to get anywhere from Houston. Is Tulsa close enough to say Taos or some of the skiing in Southern Colorado to drive there for a three day weekend of skiing?
As a final note it looks like there is a battlefield fairly close to Tulsa across the line in Arkansas - Battle of Prairie Grove. Have you (or anyone else for that matter) ever visited? I will have to read up on the battle but that will definitely be on the list of places to explore.
Skiing is about a 10 hour drive. I don't know if that would work for a weekend. Tulsa is not in the mountains, just hills, though we have a habit of naming some of our larger hills "mountains". You can be in mountains in an hour and a half or so in southern Oklahoma or in Arkansas but there's not enough snow to ski.
I know of another Civil War battlefield near Tulsa. The Battle of Honey Springs occurred in the Rentiesville, OK area. It led to the Union controlling Indian Territory north of the Arkansas River. There is a site there that is possible to visit. But on the web, you can learn more at The Battle of Honey Springs Summary & Facts | Civilwar.org
Rentiesville has one other thing going for it that I am aware of... the DC Minner Dusk 'til Dawn Blues Festival they have every Labor Day. Actually it lasts three days. http://dcminnerblues.com/
I would think the best time to visit the battlefield would be around the time of the festival so you could check out both.
Also, the 150th anniversary of the battle will be in only a few days on July 17th, 2013. There is going to be a reenactment November 9-10, 2013.
As a final note it looks like there is a battlefield fairly close to Tulsa across the line in Arkansas - Battle of Prairie Grove. Have you (or anyone else for that matter) ever visited? I will have to read up on the battle but that will definitely be on the list of places to explore.
I went to the reenactment at Prairie Grove last year. It was the first reenactment I've been to but it was enjoyable. The park seemed very nice but I'd like to go back when there is not a crowd. Pea Ridge Battlefield is also nearby in Benton county Arkansas. It's probably a little nicer since it is a National Military Park.
Tulsa would be somewhat similar to Austin, maybe not as “weird”, but it certainly has it’s quirks.
I live in Austin but have to spend 3 days a week in Tulsa for work.
The two cities are absolutely nothing alike. The restaurant, music, and entertainment scene in Tulsa is abysmal. Downtown isn't a downtown, it's more like an office park that starts to shut down at 2pm when probably 90% of the restaurants close and it's vacant by 7pm. The entertainment districts...Blue Dome, Brady, etc. are pretty vacant consisting of maybe a dozen restaurants and a handful of bars each, get very old very quickly. There's little ethic food to speak of. The little that is there is tailored to unadventurous eaters. If you like going out, it doesn't even compare at all.
I have to agree with achtung - the downtown area is very patchily developed and not at all like livable city centers that I know. It might be a happening place in 5 years time once you get a critical mass of decent housing and more renovated buildings, but right now it's lots of run-down or abandoned lots interspersed with very occasional blocks of shops and 2 or 3 expensive apartment buildings, but no basic amenities (like a grocery store!) I wouldn't feel safe walking around downtown alone after 10pm.
The Midtown area is definitely where it's at for young professionals, but the downside of moving from out of town is that there are few large apartment complexes, and smaller rental units are often done through word of mouth or lawn signs, not online advertising. I found a fantastic apt in a 1940s-era building near Cherry Street, but I had to comb through the streets looking for For Rent signs for DAYS before I hit on it. The small bungalows in the Brookside area go for $1300-1500/month, while Cherry Street and Riverside rents are more reasonable. Apts also move quickly: don't start looking until 2-3 weeks before your move, or everyone will tell you it's "too early" to know what they'll have available.
There are very few abandoned lots in downtown Tulsa. The only ones i know of are to the east of Elgin along 1st St and a couple along 10th. There are a lot of surface parking lots which are different than abandoned lots. The majority of the surface parking is owned by downtown churches and leased to American Parking, ect. It's great for the churches but it doesn't give a connected feel to our downtown. It will change over time as people want to redevelop downtown. I've lived here for 3 years and every year, downtown improved since I have been here.
I'm not sure why you stated there is no ethnic food. There are Mexican, Italian, Sushi and BBQ (US Southern ethnic) restaurants here. For Oklahoma, that is varied. If you count food trucks like Lone Wolf, there is a lot of variety. To be honest, there isn't much variety off 6th St. in Austin. Most of the variety is in other places in downtown Austin. Tulsa, as stated, will get better in 5 years but it will take some time getting there.
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