Hired at Penn Elementary, moving to Tulsa (Stillwater, Bixby: low income, sales)

[wildplantgeek]

Hello there,
I was recently hired as a teacher in North Tulsa, and I am looking for advice for a smooth relocation. I am 33 and single, looking to rent, and would like to be in an area with small businesses and preferably a coffee shop or two I'm not a big drinker anymore but occasionally enjoy live music. I've heard midtown is a pretty hip place. Where would a good area be for a newbie from Wisconsin to move to? Also, what parts of the city should I avoid due to crime? Thanks much, look forward to replies.

[swake]

Not to scare you too much, but avoid the area around your school.

Midtown will be great for you, try the Brookside, Florence Park or Cherry Street areas. The biggest deal will be with what you can afford.

[wildplantgeek]

Thank you!

[Griffis]

Welcome. I don't currently live in Tulsa but I have lived there on and off my whole life. I have many friends and family who live there still.

I think you will find it a nice place. One of the cool aspects of Tulsa is that the rougher areas are pretty clearly delineated. Though you may be teaching in North Tulsa, some of the neighborhoods that way are not the best and yes, there is some crime.

Here's my best advice:

Really, IMO, anything from Riverside Drive (as far West as you can really go in town) to maybe Garnett or Mingo (to the East) is good and safe with a lot of options. Some areas bounded by these streets have a little more city vibe and cute little business districts mixed in with the neighborhoods. The further East you go in town past Memorial, the more characterless it gets (IMO.) Still not bad, but just not as pretty and not as many established neighborhoods.

North to South, I would probably draw the line at not going further North than 11th Street, although the area between Admiral (Admiral being the street that divides N and S Tulsa) and 11th near the TU campus (between Lewis and Yale Avenues basically) has some nice residential areas and there are some bars and coffeeshops around. South I would probably stay the North side of 61st. It's not that South of 61st is really bad either, it's just a lot more suburban in feel (to me, at least) and the traffic can get really bad (a lot of people commute to and from Jenks, Bixby, etc., which are out South of town.)

I'd say the roughest parts of town are North of 11th Street, although the further East you go out by the Hard Rock can get a little sketchy. It's just a more transient area, with a lot of people passing through, staying in hotels, visiting the casino, etc.


The only other really bad part of town is South of an area called Brookside. This is a real pity because Brookside itself is a very cool district with neat shops, a great library branch, bars with live music, etc which is mostly set on Peoria Ave between about 31st and 51st Streets. But South of Brookside, up closer to 61st Street and particularly in between Lewis and Riverside (Peoria is right in between Lewis & Riverside) has gotten bad. Lots of low income housing, rabbit-warrens of apartments, etc. It's become pretty crime ridden.

Incidentally, another cool little district is Cherry Street, mainly centered on 15th Street between Lewis & Peoria. I imagine home prices (including rent) have gone up a bit since I last kicked around that area.

Essentially, to recap, pretty much anywhere between Riverside (to the West) and Memorial (to the East, if not maybe another mile or two East) and between 11th Street (to the North) and 61st (to the South) and you're good. I'd suggest just driving around those areas, checking the paper and CL for rentals (or sales if you are in the market to buy) and see how different areas feel to you.

Back when I last lived there it used to be that the downtown area (though really pretty in spots) became pretty much dead after the end of the business day, but it's starting to grow more and have a little more nightlife of its own. The Blue Dome district is supposed to be really nice. If you are into music, Cain's Ballroom is a very famous venue dripping with history. Everyone from Hank Williams to the Sex Pistols have played there.

Bear in mind, this is Oklahoma. I've lived all over the country and came back to Oklahoma. For me, there are a lot of positives and a lot of good reasons to be here. However, it is not the most progressive state and it is not known for being a center of Arts and Entertainments. I would say Tulsa is probably the "best" place in the state as far as being decent-sized and having some cool things to do. It is in one of the prettier locales in Oklahoma as well.

You'll find there is something of a grudge match between people who prefer OKC and people who prefer Tulsa. Oddly, they really do have a different feel and culture (I've lived in both.) I vastly prefer Tulsa. It is more compact, has far prettier parks, etc., some of the architecture is world class, it has more of an arts leaning and I just like the feel of it far better. However, if you like country music and sports, I would have to admit OKC has got that in the bag.

One last thing on an oft-overlooked part of the Tulsa Metro:

West Tulsa (on the other side of the river) is not bad, but a bit run down. It really is like a different city. Culturally speaking in particular. However, it has some neat old diners and some pretty, leafy neighborhoods. Housing is likely cheaper in W Tulsa, but commuting back and forth could be a pain during high traffic times.

Good luck with everything and feel free to post more questions. There are many great, friendly folk on this forum.

[Griffis]

PS-- Swake is pretty much right on (as usual.)

Also, if you like meaty foods that are bad for you, Coney-I-Lander is my favorite place in the entire nation for hot dogs (although they should have kraut as an option!) Ron's Chili Bowl is a good, established burger joint (although I prefer Bill's Jumbo Burgers--just don't eat 'em more than once a month!) and Hideaway Pizza (which was started in Stillwater (home of OSU but has a few Tulsa locations) is a really good pizza place (IMO.) Weber's is a cool drive-in restaurant that makes their own (darn fine) root beer. There's a Weber's in Brookside. There are some fine pubs up and down Cherry st. And there are plenty of more healthy places to eat and shop as well.

University of Tulsa has a lot of nice events that are open to the public. Philbrook is a very nice museum housed in an old oil baron's mansion (the grounds are unbelievable.) They do Shakespeare in the Park there and have some great exhibits. Nearby Woodward Park is a beautiful place.

I could go on and on. I miss Tulsa. Again, I've lived all over the country and there are many, many, far worse places you could live.

Oh, one last thing (for now)-- the further South you go, the worse your commute will be. Penn Elementary is pretty far North (N. 48th St.) between Lewis & Peoria. You might start your search around South 11th-to-South 31st St and between maybe Yale and Peoria. that gives you a little more narrow radius to begin with and it'll be much quicker and easier to get from somewhere in that part of town to your work than living out further South.

[bagelw]

Originally Posted by swake

Not to scare you too much, but avoid the area around your school.

Midtown will be great for you, try the Brookside, Florence Park or Cherry Street areas. The biggest deal will be with what you can afford.

I agree with swake but it really depends on what price you're looking for. Midtown is not necessarily cheap housing.

[wildplantgeek]

Thanks much! I'd love to be near the Woody Guthrie Center; I'm a huge fan. Which district is this in?

[swake]

That's actually downtown in the Brady District.

If you are a teach for America Teacher there are lofts set aside for you in the Brady. Great Area.

I didn't mean to imply that midtown was cheap, I mean the opposite, there are lots of great areas, if you can afford them.

[wildplantgeek]

Hello again!
Thank you all for your advice. I am now deciding on whether to get an apartment in a complex/community or to rent a house/duplex closer to cherry st area. I'll share some links to what I am thinking of. Could you let me know what you think of the neighborhoods/rental companies, etc? Would be a huge help. Here we go!
Apartments in Tulsa, OK :: The Parc at East Fifty First Apartment Homes - Apartments For Rent
Gorgeous Midtown apt across street Popular Blue Rose restaurant & bar
***$100.00 Off Rent 2 Bedroom****
Save Money in the New Year!!!
Heart of the Rose District
Downtown on a park
Huge, Sunny two bedroom off Cherry Street
Duplex, 1 bedroom, Cherry Street
Mansion House Apartments | Apartments in Tulsa, OK - Mansion House - Tulsa - OK
ALL BILLS PAID one & TWO bedrooms available now!!! $550.00
MIDTOWN, ALL BILLS PAID 1-Bd W/ NEW Dishwasher, NEW Carpet
Darling Duplex Midtown
ALL BILLS PAID Midtown, Cherry Street 1 Bedroom

I'll leave it at that for now. My reasons for wanting to live in a house/duplex are proximity to happenin' places and the feel of being in a neighborhood with people around my age. The reasons for the interest in a complex/community are safety, meeting people (many have community activities), and, well, swimming pool Just wondering about the neighborhoods. Thanks again!
Amy

[wildplantgeek]

I put in an application at Mansion house apartments by riverside drive.