Thinking of relo'ing to Alaska (Anchorage, Fairbanks: cul-de-sac, best cities, transplants)

[TiffInWA]

Hi everyone, I've been reading a few posts today and seems everyone is really nice and helpful!

Currently, my husband is in the Navy, and we are stationed here in WA state, about an hour from Seattle. We are both originally from NC (I was born and raised there, he was born in Vicenza, Italy, and has lived there twice, Germany, Georgia and NC), both lived in Charleston, SC, then out here. It was a massive change, for me especially. His mother lives in OR and he'd lived with her before. He loves cold, mountains, hunting, fishing, living in the woods, etc. Before moving out here, I was a beach girl, loved the South, Southern food, the hot summers, etc. Rather opposite huh?

I always swore I'd never live somewhere "cold" (by Southern standards) and that I didn't like the outdoors. Well, compared to NC, here in WA was the exact opposite of what I was used to. It doesn't get really cold here, 20 degrees, maybe a bit below in the winter, but usually a bit warmer, and 70 degree summers (although last year we had a fluke and had some 80 degree days). I've learned to deal with colder weather and the outdoors. We went camping this past summer to a very remote location and I actually loved it. We live on a "normal" cul-de-sac, but we're set back in the woods so we're a bit secluded. I like it. I guess what I'm trying to say is all these things I swore I hated, I've come to love. That's not to say I don't miss the South and the beach and the warm, but I've come to appreciate the things I thought I hated.

All that said, my dh gets out of the Navy in two years. I'm a big planner and since our lists of places to live were vastly different (Alaska, Colorado, Montana, Wyoming vs. SC, GA, NC), I thought it was only fair to explore all options. I have no real desire for Montana or Wyoming. He had always planned to move me back South, but I thought that was rather unfair of me. So, we did a quiz on Best Places to Live: Compare the Best Cities & Small Towns for You! and his list popped up with Alaskan places (suprise). I've been looking at Seward (love it from reading about it, my no. 1 choice right now), Homer, Soldotna, Ketchikan, and some other places.

I was one of those ignorant people that thought Alaska was nothing but snow all the time and cabins in the middle of nowhere, no stores, nothing. I was truly suprised at what I saw. I love just about everything I've read about Seward. It's coastal, which I love. I can give up swimming in it. I love the mountains and the parks, etc. The climate seems like something I could get used to, not love, but not hate either. Close enough to a "big" city. I ruled out the Juneau area for the simple fact it seemed it had way more rain than I cared for, and I'm used to rain living here in the Seattle area. Seward seemed to have more what we're used to. I haven't checked out the Fairbanks area yet.

I guess what I'm looking for is any "insider" info to consider when making the decision. I want a small town, with cute little shops, ability to get to know everyone, good food, good schools (daughter starting K next year), outdoors stuff for him and us, but close to a bigger city to do the bigger city things if I want.

The employment thing is a major thing I'm having trouble with. I own a custom cake designing business here and am a pastry chef. Seeing as how tourism is a big thing there, I thought I could set up shop again. That would take time though. I also like Seward's AVTECH to get baker certification. I guess because I've never had to find work moving to someplace else, I'm not sure where to look for small-town specific jobs.

Sorry, this is so long. I'm just trying to narrow down choices so I can start looking and planning so when the time comes we're set. Thanks to anyone who made it this far!!!

[Night of Stars]

2002-2004 we lived in Seward, and are looking at returning to the very areas you named. My husband attended AVTEC for heavy equipment/diesel technology. AVTEC is a good school.

The downside of Seward when we lived there was upon entry getting into adequate housing. Quality definitely is dependent on how much money you have. We, as a student-type household, had to get a really run down mobile home rental in Salmon Creek Trailer Park. We know of others who had to enter Seward the same way. We painted bedrooms to cleanse and update for we had a child involved also to take care of.

We loved climbing the mountain the Marathon Race was ran up on, and had to really get it right the appropriate site to climb up because we ran into far too steep of an incline close to the peak that was too much for a 9-year old at that time.

I know of a family that began an ice-cream snack shop there, Seong's wife (from Seong Computers). She was doing well, although seasonally the income must be budgeted properly to succeed through a year.

Alaska does have its winters. It would be dishonest to say that winter does go on for a long time. And, about giving up swimming, in the middle of the cold part of winter they have a bunch in the town jump in for money for a good cause. I know it was so cold it hurt because I walked into a river at Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau (where I lived for 9 years), that was so cold it hurt ALOT to the BONE! As well the same at the river at Exit Glacier in Seward. There is some beautiful scenery and nice places to walk around, like Exit Glacier.

It is really hard to know though how one would perceive the location until they got there. I personally was raised on an island and have lived on one most of my life so am addicted to the absolute wild wide open ocean. Seward has some of that, yet isn't the wild ocean front, more protected than Sitka where I was raised. Sitka, however, does not have housing opportunities and the groceries remain excessive in price because they will not allow more economically realistic store chains, of any type in. There is so much monopoly it actually is an act of greed to hold even ancestral long-term dwellers hostage like that unable to live there anymore. It is so sad to have hardships involved in even trying to visit the place you were raised where aunts, cousins, and mother still live. Personally, sad, sad, shocker the economic and housing conditions of the place.

My cousin in Seward, his wife works at the title agency. I bet if you went in there they'd have some housing leads for the area. As well as, of course, local realtors.

Good Luck.

[BudinAk]

Hi Tiff

I'm in Seward, and will be glad to answer any questions. I used to live in Longview, WA when I was still in high school in the 60's. I remember the people were so friendly there. My wife is from Florida, but wants to move to N.C. when we retire. I guess we will get a motorhome and have a look...want to see the country anyway.
The weather you mention in WA sounds identical to what we have here in Seward, in fact you could just substitute the word "Seward" for WA., as far as weather is concerned...it's samo-samo. (western-wa) Your husband loves cold, mountains, hunting, fishing, living in the woods, etc? Then he would love it here. Seward is the doorway for the Kenai Fjords National Park. The park is a "must-see" on your itinerary....natural beauty and wildlife that is just outstanding. Tourism is big here in the summer.
Yes, Seward has quite a few quaint, cute, little shops for the ladies, and enough "man-candy" stores to keep us guys happy...not a lot, but enough. I would also consider Soldotna and Homer, but not Ketchikan. Reason being is the later is not on the road system, so the only way in or out is air or boat. And it rains TONS there! If you honestly love rain, then I'd go there. (the most rain in Alaska) I think Seattle has more rain than Seward, but not sure...we get a fair amount also, esp. in Sept and Oct. Homer has beautiful ocean frontage and views (as does Seward). Scenic views in both are drop-dead gorgeous, on clear sunny days. Soldotna has LOTS of little shops and malls...we go there quite often, just for a change of pace...prices are better there. It's only 1 1/2 hrs drive from Seward. We can accomplish 95% of our shopping there, as opposed to going to Anchorage, without putting up with the big city traffic. Anchorage does, however, have the biggest malls, and the big sales. A suggestion: when you come up here, don't consider this move as "permanent", but rather as a 1-yr trial period, with the idea that after a year you will re-evaluate your situation and decide then to stay, or move on . Rent, don't buy, so that if you don't like what you find you can pack up and move on with little hassle. See if you like the area first. It will give you both time to drive around and check out the other cities and towns while you are here. If you like cake decorating, I would definitely apply for a job with the bakery at Carrs/Safeway store in Seward, the largest store in town. They do seem to have a fairly large staff. The bakery staff seems to be busy all the time.
Probably the prettiest town I've seen in Alaska is Seldovia. (across the bay from Homer) Great place to visit, but I couldn't live there...it's just too small...not many stores and shops at all. But for an overnight/weekend getaway in mid-summer, you just can't beat it...the scenery is totally awesome, to say the least...bring a camera.
Anyway, I guess the bottem line is don't worry too much about where you start up here...you can always move, once you check everything out. But, if you want that AVTEC diploma, I'd start here in Seward. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me...

Bud

[rotorhead]

Hate to start sounding like a broken record here, but EVERY town in Alaska is a small town, including Anchorage. Admittedly its almost ten times larger than the next biggest alternates (Juneau, Fairbanks), but Anchorage is only about a quarter million. Since its the biggest of the small towns and by far the largest city in the state, it has amenities that you just don't find anywhere else in AK without totally losing the "Alaska flavor" completely. Like it or not Anchorage is also the job center of the state as well, and if you're trying to find specialty work it'll more likely happen there than elsewhere unless your specialty is fishing or oil related.

You might want to check out Eagle River, about 15 minutes north of Anchorage and a pretty little place itself. Its a bedroom community within easy commuting distance of ANC and has some of the best schools in the state. Its also very convienent to Elmendorf Air Force Base and Fort Richardson so there is a large military presence in most neighborhoods and its close to the PX and Commissary. I lived there about 2 1/2 years and liked it a lot, if it were up to me we'd still be there today.

Not trying to sound like an ANC Chamber of Commerce toady, but don't rule it out until you've at least been there and looked it over. If you've moving from Seattle or Portland then it'll seem like a quaint mid-sized town, despite its reputation within Alaska as "Los Anchorage".

[fiveoaksmom]

Hi Tiff! Just had to jump over here and say hi in our search for new homes!!!! Glad you're finding answers. This board is great! Maybe I can visit you in AK and you can visit me in TN!

Kasha

[Sheeboo]

There is solid advice from everyone so far and Bud, especially, has some pearls of wisdom—do not buy right away or worse yet, from afar. Budget for a hotel, or campground for two weeks and travel the state, or at least the south-central area:

Homer, Seward, Soldotna, Anchorage, Indian, Wasilla and Palmer are probably your best bets. Each town is very different. From what you’ve said about what you used to think you enjoyed, Palmer might be more a fit than Seward—it is closer to Anchorage and might have more choices in terms of the kind of housing you are probably used to. If you are a Christian with a capital “C”, all the better a fit as you’ll likely find a sense of community rather quickly. Even if you aren’t religious, even in the more religious towns, there is very much a live-and-let-live attitude, which is one of the things I learned how to do in Alaska and now love about Alaska. It is one of the only places in our country where it is quite normal to see different variations of a right-wing, Baptist “redneck” and a dreadlocked, liberal “tree-hugger” helping each other out in some way and trading a tale or two.

Don’t rule out Anchorage—yes, many Alaskans will claim that Anchorage is NOT Alaska, but really, it is still quite a stretch to compare it to any other American city, besides Fairbanks. Anchorage, especially downtown, is a cute, safe, walk-able, and increasingly trendy section—and, the elementary school for downtown (Kincaid) is one of the best in the state. Anchorage tries damn hard to be a cool city to live in and the University of Alaska Anchorage has been working on their culinary program…

I lived in AK for over 10 years: Fairbanks, Homer, Girdwood and “AnchorRage.” I would probably live in any of these places again—especially now that I have children. Alaska is a great place for young children (as long as you bundle them up and get them outside—no matter what the temp is!). It can be either expensive, or very, very inexpensive, depending on your level of comfort. I lived without running water for years and paid $300 in rent. Believe it or not, these were some of the best years of my life and I would probably do it again. I learned a lot and my daughters would learn a lot from the experience as well. No mater how you live in Alaska, there is something about the place that teaches its humans humility. You cannot not be awed by its vastness.

One thing about Alaska—if you are meant to live there, you will. Many are transplants and many will tell you that after coming up for a summer of work or play, they just had to stay and see what winter was like—and that was 5-10-20-40 years ago. Alaska is kind of like Manhattan in that way, no one really lives there who doesn’t want to—what a breath of fresh air that is!

Wow—I didn’t think I had that much to say—I hope some part was useful

[Sheeboo]

I forgot—I think Palmer (growing quickly) and Anchorage would be better in terms of jobs. Seward or Homer might be more seasonal and the cake decorating might be hard there too—but I bet Palmer, Eagle River (suburb) or Anchorage might work for your own business—good luck!

[TiffInWA]

Thanks everyone! Great info. I definitely plan on visiting at least a time or two before any plans are made. I'm really excited though; the more I think of it the more happy I get with the idea.

[Rance]

You'll love it here and stay. Or you'll hate it and leave. Thats about as hard as it gets. You only have to make one decision!

[rotorhead]

One thing for sure...they sure could use a good bakery/cafe/diner in Eagle River. The closest they come is an ancient greasy spoon, one fancy restaurant, a couple of coffee shops, and a bunch of fast food. There's tons of money in that suburb and it all drives into Anchorage for lunch.