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Please help! Recently my 94 silverado broke down on the side and I had to change the Rotary button(not sure if I spelled that right) and module. It ran after that but I noticed that the rpm began jumping up and down whenever the transmission got ready to shift up and the truck would choke. When going up hills it would be worse. Anyone know what it could be?
It would do it during idle too.
I had a new distributor cap put on a little over a year ago.
Changed to rotor button and module about 2 weeks ago then had it tuned up a weeks ago. Changed the fuel filter yesterday, pump is still coming on though although it runs about 10 secs. It's done that since I first put it on a little over a year ago as well.
I don't think that the problem is related to replacement of the rotor.
Instead, this sounds to me like a gunked-up Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). With any luck you can clean it with the appropriate solvent/cleaner. Otherwise, you may have to replace the MAF.
I don't think that the problem is related to replacement of the rotor.
Instead, this sounds to me like a gunked-up Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). With any luck you can clean it with the appropriate solvent/cleaner. Otherwise, you may have to replace the MAF.
They do tend to cause problems in places other than idle. I've only watched a minute of that clip, and I was hesitant to post it because the guy has a cigarette in his hand working near fuel.. Try not to do that.
Part of the distributor, Rotor button is the correct term. Where the actual contact to send spark is made.
Back in the day when cars had distributors, you'd generally wind up having to replace the cap and button.
I don't particularly see replacing the button causing a wobbling RPM at shift. What is the idle like? Solid, or is it wobbling there as well?
I've been working on cars for 40+ years and never heard anyone call it a rotary button, or a rotor button, its just the rotor. So he replaced the cap a year ago, and just got around to replacing the rotor, typically those are done at the same time. OP, did you clean inside of rotor? Check for carbon tracing? OHM wires?
I've been working on cars for 40+ years and never heard anyone call it a rotary button, or a rotor button, its just the rotor. So he replaced the cap a year ago, and just got around to replacing the rotor, typically those are done at the same time. OP, did you clean inside of rotor? Check for carbon tracing? OHM wires?
Don't know if it's a regional thing, but.. I've always heard it referred to as the rotor button here in the south. (We call everything "Coke" as well, never "Soda" or "Pop") It's pretty much an interchangeable term. The 'button' term, I've always understood, refers to the actual metal contacts only on the rotor.. "Cleaning the rotor button" is a term that has been thrown around before and something I have done, but generally just to verify that it's the problem.. I've never seen the parts to replace just the 'rotor button'. Nor would I expect to, considering that the rotor itself is generally under $10. At least, all this is my interpretation of it.
The rotor is what you replace, the rotor button is generally what goes bad.
Google it. It's not an uncommon term at all. Then you can use it as an example of how you learn something new every day, even after 40+ years in the business. Whether you agree with the accuracy of the term or not is another story, but..
Anyway.. He replaced the rotor. Yes, odd that you wouldn't replace the cap and rotor at the same time, especially given the cost of the parts. neither of them will exactly set you back a great deal. $20 for both is probably pretty close.. But.. The 'surging' he's describing does not sound like a miss, which is what I would expect from a problem in the distributor. That IAC valve.. After 20+ years.. Seems like a good starting point for me, I doubt it needs to be replaced, can probably just clean. Throttle Body would be a good thing to clean up while you're in there as well.. It amazes me that when people take a vehicle in for a 'tune up' nowadays that most places don't do a TB cleaning, or at least check it.
I tried cleaning the iacv but the starter wNt out as soon as I tried to crank it. When it did crank it was still doing it. I had a couple of people tell me it was the coil going out though
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