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The "mechanic" who suggested "ENGINE RESTORE" has zero credibility.
Mechanical repairs are not effected by pouring something out of a can. There should be no visible SMOKE out the tailpipe whatsoever. Visible water condensation on a cold start in cold damp weather -- normal. If you think that is what it is, compare it to what another car does in the same weather. Bad piston rings will cause oil consumption. Bad INTAKE valve seals will cause a relatively heavy ampount of smoke with often only moderate oil consumption. However, on a modern car, a still-functioning catalytic converter can mask evidence of oil burning -- that is until the cat get poisoned with the oil and stops working!
Don in Austn
Don a lot of what you say has been confirmed by other sources. Unfortunately, I don't think it's the PCV/intake valve due to the amount of oil I appear to be losing. From what I've grasped from others, only a small quantity of oil is lost through here in a small period of time.
You also echo my thoughts on the catalytic converter. One of my huge concerns is running that bad also as with the metals that thing has I'm sure it's not cheap.
Would you say there's anything negative that could happen by trying the Engine Restore?
There is a long-shot chance that Step One will work if the PCV valve is stuck open and pulling excessively. This would almost certainly cause a check engine light due to excessively lean fuel mixture.
Steps Two and Three will a placebo effect at best.
An occasional cause of oil consumption is a severely sludged engine such that oil under the valve cover(s) does not drain back properly and floods the valve stems.
Don in Austin
Well I don't have an engine light on currently. That could be another indicator that it's not the PCV. I've also heard that many times if there is an issue with the PCV, that there will be evidence on the air filter of spots of oil. Have you ever heard that?
Don do you have any suggestions for dealing with any sludge that you talk about?
Once again I highly appreciate any feedback, whether others agree or not.
My brothers coming down over the weekend and we're going to check out some of the things stated here.
I have on occasion seen a "High Mileage" type oil (has seal swell additives in it) sometimes improve valve stem seal effectiveness. Sometimes it will decrease oil consumption, but usually won't stop it entirely.
I still say if the engine uses a quart every 1000 or so miles, just add that quart of oil and go on with business.
Part of the "old car game" is that you learn to live with minor faults in the car, and find work-arounds that don't break the bank.
And I understand what you're saying, but this is a case where it seems like I'm adding more like a quart every 100 miles.
Cars aren't cheap so I'm trying to figure out how to make this one last me at least until I pay it off lol.
Well I don't have an engine light on currently. That could be another indicator that it's not the PCV. I've also heard that many times if there is an issue with the PCV, that there will be evidence on the air filter of spots of oil. Have you ever heard that?
Don do you have any suggestions for dealing with any sludge that you talk about?
Once again I highly appreciate any feedback, whether others agree or not.
My brothers coming down over the weekend and we're going to check out some of the things stated here.
You would have noticed the sludge when you did the valve cover gasket. I have heard of an engine restore working before. A compression and leakdown test is done first to the engine. Then a BG flush is done to the combustion chamber where a machine is hooked up to the fuel rail and the engine is ran off the stuff. Then the oil is changed with a special additive designed to free up stuck rings. Last step is a gas tank additive the customer drives a full tank through the engine. The. A 2nd compression and leakdown test is done. If the engine restore is successful, it will have noticeably more compression and less leakdown.
I'm not a fan of these Restore products, if you look there are metal particles/filings in the can. These probably fall to the bottom of the oil pan where they don't do much harm, but, I can't see them doing any good.
If the car runs more or less normally I would maybe go to a high mileage type oil, and/or go up to the next thicker viscosity - but I would not use Restore.
I have cars that burn a quart every 500 miles, old Detroit dinosaurs, they are perfectly usable cars, you just have to keep an eye on oil level. A quart of oil every 500 miles on a car that barely breaks 15 MPG does not add much to operating cost.
One final point - never loan cars out period, but, particularly don't loan out a car that uses oil, the numbskull borrowing it will run it low on oil. Have heard many stories about that. Just say no.
Good point. This is a pretty good car overall. Pretty much everything else is in great condition for being almost 10 years old. So I don't think I'm at that point yet with the car. At least I'd be a bit disappointed if I was at 85,000 with cruising with highway miles.
I'm hoping I can resolve this issue and get another 50k miles or so out of this, even if it becomes a beater car down the road. It's a good car for long trips with good gas mileage, and ideal for commuting to work.
Mikelee81, that Focus should have the 2.0 4 cylinder engine. It's not uncommon for these engines to go 300,000 miles properly maintained. The maintenance is something nobody here is going to know, but you might. If the oil has been changed with a quality brand, the fix is not going to be expensive. These engines use a low tension ring pack and can be subject to sticking, especially on an engine that sees short trips. If it makes short trips, change the oil and filter to Rotella 10w-30 that you can find at most any NAPA store. The NAPA Gold oil filter is also a good one for the one stop shop. The Rotella is a dual rated oil and has extra detergents that will clean and free up the ring packs. It's a far more robust base oil as well. If you can't find it, look for Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 10w-30. It has the lowest NOACK rating which is the oils rate of evaporation due to high heat and has a great detergent package. Neither oil is a high dollar oil.
The biggest concern you're going to have is the amount of oil you claim you are running thru it will kill the entire emissions system. I would budget money for a complete catalytic converter system. A CEL is in your future. The oil has pretty much coated and burned the workings of the cat and will render it useless. If you are in a state where they check the exhaust at inspection time, if there is a CEL, it's most likely the cats gone bad, FWIW.
Engine Restore is a good thing for a beater engine that you only need for a few hundred miles. The contents of the bottle is copper and lead. The idea is that the copper and lead will burnish itself onto the hottest metals which is usually where wear has occurred on cylinder walls. It wears off as quick as it is deposited. Normally, the copper and lead after the first 5 minutes of running is now all in the oil filter. It's a 100% waste of money.
As I recall, the power steering pump sits on top of the engine right in front of the radiator fan. If so, every time you change oil you need to pull as much of the power steering fluid out as you can and replace it. The pump/radiator literally cooks the power steering steering fluid and pump life is short versus the partial fluid change. The pumps can last as long as the engine doing the partial fluid change at every oil change.
At your mileage, you're getting close to needing engine and transmission mounts. They may be great as of now but expect failure in the next 10-15,000 miles. If you are handy with tools, you can do them yourself- it's not hard at all on that Focus.
Mikelee81, that Focus should have the 2.0 4 cylinder engine. It's not uncommon for these engines to go 300,000 miles properly maintained. The maintenance is something nobody here is going to know, but you might. If the oil has been changed with a quality brand, the fix is not going to be expensive. These engines use a low tension ring pack and can be subject to sticking, especially on an engine that sees short trips. If it makes short trips, change the oil and filter to Rotella 10w-30 that you can find at most any NAPA store. The NAPA Gold oil filter is also a good one for the one stop shop. The Rotella is a dual rated oil and has extra detergents that will clean and free up the ring packs. It's a far more robust base oil as well. If you can't find it, look for Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 10w-30. It has the lowest NOACK rating which is the oils rate of evaporation due to high heat and has a great detergent package. Neither oil is a high dollar oil.
The biggest concern you're going to have is the amount of oil you claim you are running thru it will kill the entire emissions system. I would budget money for a complete catalytic converter system. A CEL is in your future. The oil has pretty much coated and burned the workings of the cat and will render it useless. If you are in a state where they check the exhaust at inspection time, if there is a CEL, it's most likely the cats gone bad, FWIW.
Engine Restore is a good thing for a beater engine that you only need for a few hundred miles. The contents of the bottle is copper and lead. The idea is that the copper and lead will burnish itself onto the hottest metals which is usually where wear has occurred on cylinder walls. It wears off as quick as it is deposited. Normally, the copper and lead after the first 5 minutes of running is now all in the oil filter. It's a 100% waste of money.
As I recall, the power steering pump sits on top of the engine right in front of the radiator fan. If so, every time you change oil you need to pull as much of the power steering fluid out as you can and replace it. The pump/radiator literally cooks the power steering steering fluid and pump life is short versus the partial fluid change. The pumps can last as long as the engine doing the partial fluid change at every oil change.
At your mileage, you're getting close to needing engine and transmission mounts. They may be great as of now but expect failure in the next 10-15,000 miles. If you are handy with tools, you can do them yourself- it's not hard at all on that Focus.
Location: In a rural place where people can't bother me ;)
516 posts, read 429,513 times
Reputation: 1009
What's your coolant overflow bottle look like inside? Take radiator cap off when engine is cold and inspect inside radiator with your finger? Any sludge? If so...... You've got major issues. Oil leaking into coolant.
Without knowing what engine you have, In my experience, 16 valve engines burn oil more than others. That snake oil you are thinking about will do you know good. there is no quick fix.
I had the Mazda 1.8 in a protege, and it was normal to add a quart once a month maybe.
Make sure you check the oil when the engine is cold. the best way to see how much oil you are actually burning is to get an oil change, then repeat in two weeks but measure how much oil you drain. dont fillup in this 2 week period.
Mikelee81, that Focus should have the 2.0 4 cylinder engine. It's not uncommon for these engines to go 300,000 miles properly maintained. The maintenance is something nobody here is going to know, but you might. If the oil has been changed with a quality brand, the fix is not going to be expensive. These engines use a low tension ring pack and can be subject to sticking, especially on an engine that sees short trips. If it makes short trips, change the oil and filter to Rotella 10w-30 that you can find at most any NAPA store. The NAPA Gold oil filter is also a good one for the one stop shop. The Rotella is a dual rated oil and has extra detergents that will clean and free up the ring packs. It's a far more robust base oil as well. If you can't find it, look for Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 10w-30. It has the lowest NOACK rating which is the oils rate of evaporation due to high heat and has a great detergent package. Neither oil is a high dollar oil.
The biggest concern you're going to have is the amount of oil you claim you are running thru it will kill the entire emissions system. I would budget money for a complete catalytic converter system. A CEL is in your future. The oil has pretty much coated and burned the workings of the cat and will render it useless. If you are in a state where they check the exhaust at inspection time, if there is a CEL, it's most likely the cats gone bad, FWIW.
Engine Restore is a good thing for a beater engine that you only need for a few hundred miles. The contents of the bottle is copper and lead. The idea is that the copper and lead will burnish itself onto the hottest metals which is usually where wear has occurred on cylinder walls. It wears off as quick as it is deposited. Normally, the copper and lead after the first 5 minutes of running is now all in the oil filter. It's a 100% waste of money.
As I recall, the power steering pump sits on top of the engine right in front of the radiator fan. If so, every time you change oil you need to pull as much of the power steering fluid out as you can and replace it. The pump/radiator literally cooks the power steering steering fluid and pump life is short versus the partial fluid change. The pumps can last as long as the engine doing the partial fluid change at every oil change.
At your mileage, you're getting close to needing engine and transmission mounts. They may be great as of now but expect failure in the next 10-15,000 miles. If you are handy with tools, you can do them yourself- it's not hard at all on that Focus.
Trapper thanks for the detailed post.
I'm going actually print all of this out and review it with my brother this weekend who has more experience than me working on vehicles, which I'd like to change.
300 grand miles would be pretty awesome. It'd be a good car to have around for a while, and it's almost paid off which is ideal.
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