Flush brake fluid? Power steering fluid? on '05 Durango AWD

[BostonMike7]

Originally Posted by Don in Austin

Glycols ARE alcohols:

https://www.britannica.com/science/glycol

And DOT 3 brake fluid will absorb moisture over time.

Don in Austin

This^




Main difference between Dot3 and Dot4 is the wet/dry boiling point of Dot 4 is higher due to borate being added to the glycol mix. If you don't know what that means, just stick to what the manual recommends.




I usually bleed brake fluid every 2 years on my daily drivers, and every year on my project/track car. I always notice an improvement in pedal feel. I've always manuals seem to be a bit "lacking" in terms of brake fluid flush interval.

[johngolf]

Originally Posted by M3 Mitch

I would change the brake fluid if it's dark. You can do a partial replacement of power steering fluid by using a syringe to pull most of the fluid out of the reservoir, doing a full fluid replacement would involve taking things apart, and this is not really necessary. You can do a few partial replacements over a few weeks or months, and that should clean it up.

This is how I was taught to do it with a turkey baster.

[BostonMike7]

Originally Posted by johngolf

This is how I was taught to do it with a turkey baster.

That's how I do my PS fluid. Turkey baster drain, and then top off. Wait a few days, and then repeat.

[M3 Mitch]

Originally Posted by getatag

I advocate this method for both brake, steering and clutch fluid. I call it the turkey baster procedure.

I open the top of the master, use a turkey baster to pull off the fluid in the reservoir, refill with clean fluid. Drive around awhile, then do it again until it remains clear and not murky grey or black. I do this a couple of times per year or whenever the fluid looks murky rather than clear.

This is better than nothing, but, the dirtiest brake fluid is in the calipers and/or slave cylinders. Best to bleed from them, adding fluid to the master as you go.

As to "flush" versus "drain and refill" - for *transmissions*, yeah, you want to drain and refill, some "flush" machines seem to stir up sediments that were minding their own business and get them back into circulation where they can cause trouble. For *brake systems* it makes no sense to fully drain the fluid and then have to work to get all the air out. So here you "flush" in terms of pulling old fluid out of the wheel cylinders or calipers, and adding to the master cylinder before it empties fully.