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Does anyone have any pointers as to how I can more easily reach the 6th piston's spark plug? This is that piston that is closest to the cabin on the Inline Engine, and is quite difficult to reach the spark plug with any tool.
If you are willing to spend a bit, find yourself a Snap-On truck and ask what they have/recommend.
Without looking at this particular vehicle, offhand I would say that one of the following will work:
1 use the spark plug socket with no ratchet, turn it with an open or box end wrench, most spark plug sockets have an external hex for this purpose
2 use a universal joint or "knuckle" between the socket and extension. In some extreme cases you need to get a spark plug socket with an integral u-joint.
3 use a very long extension with or without a knuckle.
Usually one of the above 3 works for me.
A few cars you need to do some trick like my old 68 GTO, the 2 spark plugs under the A/C compressor were a bear to get at *unless* you took the passenger's side front wheel off - in that case they were staring right at you just above the upper A-arm.
Whatever you do, in changing spark plugs it's particularly important to apply a "clean" torque to the plug, hold the head of the ratchet with one hand and the handle with the other, and apply what in the Canoe Club they call "counter torque" - don't just push or pull on the wrench with one hand. Otherwise it's too easy to break off the ceramic part of the plug.
Leave it to GM to build a *truck* with an inline 6 that does not have good spark plug access.
Last edited by M3 Mitch; 03-08-2010 at 01:26 PM..
Reason: "clean" torque
it's actually not too bad. i just did the same job on my dad's TB. after you get the air intake piping out of the way and the coil pack off, you should be able to reach it with the right combination of ratchet extensions and some patience.
on thing that may help: they make a little adapter you can slap into the female end of the extension that gives you a hex nut to put a standard wrench around. it may help you clear the firewall overhang if that's the issue you are having. i didn't need one for the TB, but the sheet metal is a bit different. also, i do seem to remember needing to use the old 'rubber hose on the end of the plug' technique to gently drop the plug in the hole.
Leave it to GM to build a *truck* with an inline 6 that does not have good spark plug access.
That's not even the worst of it, if memory serves correctly in regards to that Atlas I6.
I believe on the 4wd versions, the front axle goes right smack dab through the oil pan. Oh yeah, a quick little google tells me the front axle is integrated into the oil pan.
IIRC, those plugs go in from the top, not like a traditional inline 6. I believe what whiteboyslo said is accurate. It's an Izuzu motor. The axle through the oil pan is just weird.
IIRC, those plugs go in from the top, not like a traditional inline 6. I believe what whiteboyslo said is accurate. It's an Izuzu motor. The axle through the oil pan is just weird.
correct. it is a DOHC engine, and like all other DOHC engines i know of, the plug goes into the top of the head in between the cams.
honestly, although i cannot remember how exactly i did this job, i don't remember it as being too tough. it's a bit of a reach, but i did it all with a socket wrench and an assortment of extensions. heck, i didn't even need a u-joint.
Mike
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