Lawn Mower will crank fine, but not start (keep, problems, good)
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... if I remove the plug it is wet with fuel so I know fuel delivery is good. ...
What you know is that delivery of something is happening. It might be pure gasoline or contaminated fuel or water.
My practice is to remove the air filter and shoot a three-second blast of starting fluid into the carb. This serves as a temporary substitute fuel. Crank the engine. If it starts readily, runs lustily for a few seconds, and then "dies" you know the problem is with fuel. If it doesn't start you have an ignition problem or a compression problem.
Hemlock140 suggested a faulty coil. Good idea. I'll add the possibility of a sheared flywheel key.
A burned or sticking engine valve would cause a compression problem. A broken valve spring would have the same symptom. These defects are unusual but this engine has a lot of hours on it anything is possible.
Yeah, I agree on two things to check before you waste your time with all others, check it for spark, if it's weak or nothing then check the flywheel shear key. Even if the key hasn't completely sheared, an indentation will prevent it from starting, they're cheap so just replace it.
My guess; The float in the carb is sticking in the full open position allowing too much fuel in. Take the back end of a screwdriver, and give the float bowl a few good raps to see if it frees it up. Then try starting with the throttle set just before the choke closes. If it starts, or tries too, then the problem is most likely dirt in the fuel bowl.
Also, I am not sure if this is worth mentioning but...
For a LONG time now the mower has had a bit of a problem starting. By this I mean when you turned the key it would spin like a quarter or half a turn or so. It would make a noise like it was gonna try to start and then just silence, no movement. You then have to depress the pedal, repress the pedal and turn the key and try again. This usually happens between 1 and 3 times. After that it would spin up like normal, and then start fine.
First, you still did not tell us if you have any spark?
Secondly, before we have you tearing everything apart; look at your last known problem - the safety switch on your clutch. Try depressing your clutch by hand and looking at what electrical switch is affected. I left my fingers do the Google walk and came up with this: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...itch&FORM=VDRE. All you have to do is hold your curser over the ones that look like yours and you might get some advice that could help you.
I am a little hesitant to send you in too many directions without more feedback; like spark or no spark. Sometime do-it-yourselfers can be the repair shops worst nightmare. There is the chance that you could cause more problems than the original problem. I'm am not saying that is the case this time - it is just something to think about if you end up with a garage full of parts on the floor.
Ideas:
Bad spark plug.
Bad coil.
Sheared flywheel key.
Bad kill switch.
The wire from the kill switch to the coil is shorted to ground.
(The kill switch might be a separate item or might be built into the ignition switch.)
Bad man-in-seat safety interlock switch.
Sorry I haven't replied guys, been very busy. I thank you all for the suggestions! Here is the current situation
I tested the ignition switch and all seems fine there.
Moved to the spark plug and when out while pressed against the block I have ZERO spark.
What would be causing no spark?
Do one step at a time. Find your brake/clutch safety switch - that you suspected could have given you problems. Actually, if you have your owners/parts manual; you should be able to go to your parts manual and find the location of that safety switch. If you do not; you can give us your model number and serial number and we should be able to pull that information off-line - if you cannot. You should be able to Google for YouTube videos of how to check your switch.
Ideas:
Bad spark plug.
Bad coil.
Sheared flywheel key.
Bad kill switch.
The wire from the kill switch to the coil is shorted to ground.
(The kill switch might be a separate item or might be built into the ignition switch.)
Bad man-in-seat safety interlock switch.
.
I think the plug is okay because I tried the old plug as well as a new one, no change.
I haven't checked the other things you have mentioned yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fisheye
Do one step at a time. Find your brake/clutch safety switch - that you suspected could have given you problems. Actually, if you have your owners/parts manual; you should be able to go to your parts manual and find the location of that safety switch. If you do not; you can give us your model number and serial number and we should be able to pull that information off-line - if you cannot. You should be able to Google for YouTube videos of how to check your switch.
I don't have the manual anymore (at least I don't believe so.) The mower if I am not mistake is a Simplicity 1694013. The engine in it is a Briggs and Straton Vanguard 18hp.
Another possibly important side note I found last night while checking things....
Since a while back when I rewired things that lead to the lights I know when I wired it that it wouldn't be right. We never use the lights anything so if they don't work it isn't a big deal. HOWEVER, I noticed last night when the light switch is flipped on, I get nothing. As in, I can't even try to start it. I have no power.
I don't have the manual anymore (at least I don't believe so.) The mower if I am not mistake is a Simplicity 1694013. The engine in it is a Briggs and Straton Vanguard 18hp.
Another possibly important side note I found last night while checking things....
Since a while back when I rewired things that lead to the lights I know when I wired it that it wouldn't be right. We never use the lights anything so if they don't work it isn't a big deal. HOWEVER, I noticed last night when the light switch is flipped on, I get nothing. As in, I can't even try to start it. I have no power.
I think that they have everything available to you online: http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocum...mRgtLvBCd6.pdf (scroll down to page 20 for your 1694013). You can also Google: "how to check safety switches on simplicity 1694013" and you will get some YouTube videos that could help as well as other useful sites.
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