How to salvage this scratched desk? (model, paint, repair, walking)
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I got an IKEA Galant desk off Craigslist. Unfortunately the seller was a douche and completely misrepresented the item - it had giant scratches across the table top. I definitely had the option of walking away, but ended up talking him down to a price I accepted and took it. (Other than the scratches, the frame is in solid condition and I like everything else about it.)
What would you recommend as the best approach to mitigate it, without spending too much time and money? I've done light DIY but never aesthetic wood paint work like that, but I don't have much to lose :-)
I'm thinking of getting a brush and similarly-colored stain and having a go at it. You can see that I already tried sanding (320 grit) around one of the scratches (picture #2). As far as I can tell the veneer cooperated with the sanding, no odd peeling etc.
Will stain adhere properly to these surfaces - both the veneer and the exposed MDF? According to IKEA, this top is made out of particleboard, Foil, Ash veneer, Stain, Clear acrylic lacquer, and solid beech. There were some debates over this, with some people claiming the veneer must be plastic. Based on this info and the pictures, what do you think?
Following on the above, is there "enough" wood grain in the veneer for the stain to actually keep the wood look?
Is stain translucent? Will it mask the bright MDF in the recessed scratch areas?
Is there some kind of (affordable and easy) more viscous "repair" material I should paint into the scratched areas to make it smoother?
Which type of stain should I ask for at my Lowe's? Dye?
Is there some kind of finish lacquer I should use? I don't want the table to look or "feel" painted.
I wouldn't bother with it, but I've grown to actively dislike dark top desks over the years.
Depending on the use:
Tablecloth.
Vinyl drafting board cover. (Wonderful stuff for writing and drawing on.)
Tileboard - I used to use desk blotters and calendars and even glass desk tops, but I had an old desk that I topped with white tileboard cut to size and have gone that route ever since. Cheap and easily replaced, solid smooth surface that cleans easily, brightens the room from reflected light.
Re-laminate. Not hard but you need a router and an open area. Costs a few bucks.
Contact paper.
Here's the thing on re-finishing it. Unless you are doing it for the learning experience, the chances of it looking like crap are about 90%, and nobody is going to be particularly impressed if it turns out well and returns to looking like Ikea furniture. If worse came to worse, it would make a nice N-gauge model railroad table.
Isn't Ikea stuff particle board or pressed board stuff? I don't think it's made out of real wood. I'd probably just get a matching magic marker and color in the scratch, or cover it with either contact paper or a computer!
Harry,
Your suggestions may very well come in handy, but I also do like the black-brown finish (it also matches other furniture I have) and I'll be perfectly happy if it "returns to looking like Ikea furniture".
Magic marker ain't gonna do it.
AngryTaxPayer, did you use paint or stain? Paintbrushes? Any sealer or lacquer?
i've used their products in the past with good results. We are a military family our furniture has been moved alot and some items really take a beating...
Harry,
Your suggestions may very well come in handy, but I also do like the black-brown finish (it also matches other furniture I have) and I'll be perfectly happy if it "returns to looking like Ikea furniture".
Magic marker ain't gonna do it.
AngryTaxPayer, did you use paint or stain? Paintbrushes? Any sealer or lacquer?
Paint brush and flat house interior paint. No sealer etc. If it scratches or chips it's an easy repaint. I did this to a medicine cabinet too. The fake wood was starting to look real ugly.
Thanks for the suggestions. I got brushes, sandpaper, stain etc. and gave that a try. I liked that the stain actually wipes off the finished surface and only applies to the exposed wood, but what I soon saw is that it didn't color it enough. While applying, the stain color I found was a great match to the existing color, but once I wiped it off it only colored the MDF (or ash veneer?) "by 50%" so the scratches are still much lighter. I wonder why Ikea's stain would get that color and mine wouldn't? (unless this information is completely wrong and it's plastic. But the top texture does seem to reflect the underlying grain.)
I'm now also certain I don't want to sand the entire tabletop.
The touch-up kits are nice but cost about as much as I paid for the entire desk. So either find it not in a kit (I just need 1 color), or try interior paint...
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