Remove layers of wallpaper or cover with 3/8" blue board? (alternatives, tank)
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I have old wallpaper in my dining room. If it's anything like the rest of my house there are layers beneath it with potentially rough wall beneath that. My contractor mentioned hanging blue board over the walls and then he could plaster that. A small amount of space would be lost, but it would probably save a great deal of time. What do you think?
if you drywall over it you have to remove and re install all the trim work, the electrical sockets must come out a little more, the walls have to be tapped and mudded to the ceiling, so while it might be better than stripping the dreaded wallpaper, it is also not THAT easy, and there is work involved....not to mention plaster dust when sanding, that is horrible in itself
do you have old trim work, is it specialty? crown molding, door casing..etc, it all has to be removed and replaced...
so while it sounds so easy, oh yeah, just nail up some blue board and call it a day......it doesn't work that way.
if you drywall over it you have to remove and re install all the trim work, the electrical sockets must come out a little more, the walls have to be tapped and mudded to the ceiling, so while it might be better than stripping the dreaded wallpaper, it is also not THAT easy, and there is work involved....not to mention plaster dust when sanding, that is horrible in itself
do you have old trim work, is it specialty? crown molding, door casing..etc, it all has to be removed and replaced...
so while it sounds so easy, oh yeah, just nail up some blue board and call it a day......it doesn't work that way.
obviously it can be done.....
Well, I wouldn't do it. I'd have him do it and it wouldn't be dry wall. I can't stand that dust. I would have them do plaster. If I remove the wallpaper, which I would probably do myself, and the walls were rough then I would end up with dust from mudding. Very good point about the sockets, although if we use 3/8 do you think it would take much to bring them out a bit?
Well, I wouldn't do it. I'd have him do it and it wouldn't be dry wall. I can't stand that dust. I would have them do plaster. If I remove the wallpaper, which I would probably do myself, and the walls were rough then I would end up with dust from mudding. Very good point about the sockets, although if we use 3/8 do you think it would take much to bring them out a bit?
The only significant difference between drywall and blueboard is what goes over the top. You're still going to run into the problem if - if you want to do it right - removing & reinstalling all trim.
The only significant difference between drywall and blueboard is what goes over the top. You're still going to run into the problem if - if you want to do it right - removing & reinstalling all trim.
Yea, over the top would be plaster right? There seems to be less dust from that. I think the trim would be ok. At the top I have this odd, what appears to be homemade molding that I could just leave. The bottom would have to be removed. I could try to remove the wallpaper from a small wall to see how that goes. I've so come to hate it.
Yea, over the top would be plaster right? There seems to be less dust from that. I think the trim would be ok. At the top I have this odd, what appears to be homemade molding that I could just leave. The bottom would have to be removed. I could try to remove the wallpaper from a small wall to see how that goes. I've so come to hate it.
Yes, blueboard is typically used so that they can skim coat it with "plaster." The end product is a harder finish than drywall provides. Even so, in the situation you described, you've still got the "thickness problem."
I know that it's not a popular way to "sand drywall" but I usually wet-sand it with a sponge rather than sand-paper. A little more labor intensive, but it basically eliminates the dust. Also, a lot of drywall mudders have a vacuum-sander that sucks the dust right off the sander-head and pulls it into the wet vac.
Yes, blueboard is typically used so that they can skim coat it with "plaster." The end product is a harder finish than drywall provides. Even so, in the situation you described, you've still got the "thickness problem."
I know that it's not a popular way to "sand drywall" but I usually wet-sand it with a sponge rather than sand-paper. A little more labor intensive, but it basically eliminates the dust. Also, a lot of drywall mudders have a vacuum-sander that sucks the dust right off the sander-head and pulls it into the wet vac.
I had my kitchen done a year or two go. The walls were in need of repair and the guys did a great job at smoothing out the craters I had, but I was finding dust a year later. It got into my fish tank two rooms away and killed one of my angels. Unfortunately, they were not using a vacuum.
As far as wet sanding it goes, I didn't know that was possible. I imagine it crumbling as you go, but I don't have much experience.
Yeah, let's cover up the bad, the years of God only knows with good money that will be chased by more good money because the contractor didn't think it all the way through- like several others did here ( removing casing is only half the job at a door, window, or cased opening- you have to extend the jamb also; at least if you want it done right).
Although this will add to the overall cost- it could potentially save you money in the long run.
I'd strip the room to the studs!
If there are exterior wall(s) now would be the time to insulate (or upgrade the insulation), improve electrical or possibly plumbing if in an interior wall. And all the trim will go back without having to mess with jambs. Besides, drywall is cheap- considering the alternatives.
Yeah, let's cover up the bad, the years of God only knows with good money that will be chased by more good money because the contractor didn't think it all the way through- like several others did here ( removing casing is only half the job at a door, window, or cased opening- you have to extend the jamb also; at least if you want it done right).
Although this will add to the overall cost- it could potentially save you money in the long run.
I'd strip the room to the studs!
If there are exterior wall(s) now would be the time to insulate (or upgrade the insulation), improve electrical or possibly plumbing if in an interior wall. And all the trim will go back without having to mess with jambs. Besides, drywall is cheap- considering the alternatives.
That certainly is the BEST option, but holy cow is it going to be a costly mess!
That's another thing I didn't consider; an opportunity to deal with the electrical. We have old wiring. Adding blue board would just make that more difficult to deal with later. An opportunity to add insulation is attractive as well. I just don't know how feasible that's going to be any time soon, but it does cause me to lean to just trying to remove the wallpaper.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.