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I have time on my hands as I am in my early 20's, but I would also like to be very methodical and efficient with my labor so that I could live on the land as early on as possible.
I'm almost certain the building inspector here will not approve of me building a 'shop/garage' and living in it and then building the home. However, I am hoping I am allowed to build a garage for 'storage purposes' before erecting a house foundation and such. Once again, that may even not be permit-able. I have asked and am awaiting a response. My idea is that what isn't all defined for the garage won't hurt anyone as long as I keep a level head. This means, perhaps I would like a garage first if I can get the permit for it...and then once it's enclosed I may decide I want to include a nicer bathroom...and maybe a little area for lounging, who knows maybe a little kitchen area? It's just a garage, though... I see nothing wrong with wanting a bathroom with plumbing features in a garage/shop building. The other parts would not be put in until after the sawdust settles. This may be a shot in the dark if I am not approved to have a garage before a residence on the property.
Anywho, I was wondering what suggestions you all have. This land is *raw* land...meaning it needs a lot of work. It is filled with several 15-20' dead elms, prairie grass, and it slopes gradual for about 200' and then stronger slope for the next 200'.
I would need 1.) electricity installed 2.)a decent entryway over the road-ditch and driveway 3.) a well drilled 4.) a septic system if I have a bathroom for the garage...otherwise it would come later on. the well is needed almost first thing so I can start my little orchard and windbreak/shelterbelt. once these 4 things are installed I could begin to think of the location of garage and house.
These 4 things plus the land will cost an easy $40,000 - The land is over half that cost to give a general idea.
Comments? Questions? Reassurance? Criticism? I'd just like to hear those who have experienced this...and their story. It is a very big purchase for me that I don't want to regret.
Have you gotten a perk test? A survey? a homesite evaluation? Have you already purchased the land? These things should all be done before purchasing to land to make sure it is suitable for a home site. Some land isn't. There are tons of lots for sale we looked at that will not support a home site due to the type of land it is. These are going for significantly less money than land that has already perked or even has a well already in place.
Sometimes, depending on the location, they have to dig down very very deep to get a well that will work and end up spending $10k just on a well. Things to think about.
As far as permits go, I wouldn't worry too much about what you're going to use the property for. Just draw up a floor plan (or get a professional one or hire an architect), submit the necessary permits and either it will or it won't be approved.
As far as storage buildings go, I'm not sure you really need a permit just to put up a storage building. Places like "Leonard" do it all the time without a permit. Probably to run electricity to it, though, and to get septic installed, etc., you would need a permit, so if you want a garage with amenities you would need that. But, this all depends on your state laws and such so make sure you get the advice of someone who knows what they're doing in your state
water table is going to dictate a lot of things as will how far you are from utilities.
Just to give you an idea we are building on a raw piece of land and the water table there is too high for a traditional septic.
Cost of mound system can run around $12000 (we are hooking to city utilities for the same cost 650 feet or more away.)
Cost to run the cables for electricity are around $3000
We are having no gas line as we are doing geothermal but you could have that cost or could have a tank if that is allowed in your area.
Also I would assume the area is rural but here in the city we ran into the requirement that our driveway has to hard surface which is costing another $12k
Also per our area's regulations the plans have to be submitted a certain way and incur costs for that--then costs for inspections for each point of building--the contractor or builders generally have to be licensed and bonded with the city--and then if I were to make improvements like a bathroom or etc it would need more plans, more permits, more approvals.
Hopefully there is less red tape in your area (especially if rural) but things you may want to check out--
So much of this is dependent on your location. Some have zoning that won't allow you to build the garage, first, others it might be just fine. As others have pointed out you probably can't wait to locate the house site, where the house sits relative to the septic is going to be important (it all runs downhill, you know) and the well location is going to besomewhat dependent on the septic location. So, all of these things need to be planned as part of your site plan. So, there are going to be lots of considerations you're going to want to plan up front.
Plus, it seems as though you are buying this land, realize that without a building permit a bank is going to be iffy on how much they will lend for bare ground. They tend not to allow as low of down payment options (if you have a house or are building one, you have more incentive to not walk away from a loan.
You may want to check out Bruce William's books on real estate - he has a lot of practical advice for stuff like this.
Thanks for the input folks! Surprisingly not much of the things mentioned I have missed.
To give you all a bit of information.
The land is 3 acres. The dimensions are to be determined. I am requesting a minimum of 250' of road frontage, which makes the depth around 500 feet. That will be plenty of land to situate a well and septic with meeting the local setback reqs. and safe distance between the two.
The land has a slope so I will use that to my advantage.
The land IS on a highly elevated area, as in 100-150' from water table easily. This is great for septic bad for well.
There *are* houses nearby. I'd have a handful of neighbors in the area (within 3-5 blocks). They all have utilities, and power runs along the road so I don't see an issue there. I asked a friend who actually lives nearby and he said they have a working well. Was unsure on depth.
The land is prairie grass but not too rocky, so I believe perculation would be fine in the area. I can always haul in clay if needed for the leach field.
I will be purchasing the land outright with no bank loan.
I plan on telling the inspector as little as possible, but I get the impression having a garage before the house is not going to fly. I'll try my best to get it to work. I sure would enjoy having a livable area in the garage, unbeknownst to the rest of the world around.
I do landscaping in the mornings with another guy so trees are viable to me. I'd like to start the orchard or at least shelterbelt asap because I would buy small (read:CHEAP) bare-root trees. It'd cost a fortune to buy anything larger than 3 gallon spruce/pines/arborvitae to cover 3 acres. So to me it is a very important note to get in here, because time is on my side for them (as long as I get the well with decent water).
My plans are in the next two weeks to talk to as many people as I can. Since there are houses (two that are within 1,000 feet) that have wells/septic...I imagine I can feel comfortable *assuming* my land would be similar? My only reservation is paying money now for a perc test and well drill before the land is even accessible via the road. I would have to fill in part of the ditch and remove a fence and clear trees for a well drilling company to enter, and then I would not be able to purchase the land with cash - leading to a whole different headache along with the chance of someone else buying it. I know finding out there is no water means everything is a wash, but I assume since wells nearby work I have a good chance of finding water too. Deeper, perhaps...but possible?
I viewed the purchase contract and it did have 'purchase is contingent upon buyer being able to build'. I'm not sure what the time-limit would be, but I would find out within a few months of purchase if land is good to build on, and if it's the purchase contract both buyer and seller are liable when signing their name. Correct? Maybe I am just ignorant with the contract?
I would buy the land and then relax. I have cheap (less than 200/mo) room and board currently and will have that available for the next few years. Before winter comes, I would ideally like to pay for an entryway (rough), cut all the dead trees down and save for firewood, pay for a well & electricity to it, and erect a garage with water and electricity running to it. I would be able to pay for most of that with my monthly wages that I save up, but some would be from a small personal loan. I'm guessing 5,000-7,500 of loan debt by end of 2014...which I would chip away through the winter and by spring time have it be much less. Then in the spring, I would begin planting the shelterbelt and working the land. A house would not start until 2+ years of ownership. The septic may be installed late 2015 if I had my ducks in a row.
Sorry for the lengthy topic, it's a passion of mine and hopefully this can be useful for everyone in this situation.
Last edited by CTSNicholas; 07-30-2014 at 02:02 PM..
Thanks for the input folks! Surprisingly not much of the things mentioned I have missed.
To give you all a bit of information.
The land is 3 acres. The dimensions are to be determined. I am requesting a minimum of 250' of road frontage, which makes the depth around 500 feet. That will be plenty of land to situate a well and septic with meeting the local setback reqs. and safe distance between the two.
The land has a slope so I will use that to my advantage.
The land IS on a highly elevated area, as in 100-150' from water table easily. This is great for septic bad for well.
There *are* houses nearby. I'd have a handful of neighbors in the area (within 3-5 blocks). They all have utilities, and power runs along the road so I don't see an issue there. I asked a friend who actually lives nearby and he said they have a working well. Was unsure on depth.
The land is prairie grass but not too rocky, so I believe perculation would be fine in the area. I can always haul in clay if needed for the leach field.
I will be purchasing the land outright with no bank loan.
I plan on telling the inspector as little as possible, but I get the impression having a garage before the house is not going to fly. I'll try my best to get it to work. I sure would enjoy having a livable area in the garage, unbeknownst to the rest of the world around.
I do landscaping in the mornings with another guy so trees are viable to me. I'd like to start the orchard or at least shelterbelt asap because I would buy small (read:CHEAP) bare-root trees. It'd cost a fortune to buy anything larger than 3 gallon spruce/pines/arborvitae to cover 3 acres. So to me it is a very important note to get in here, because time is on my side for them (as long as I get the well with decent water).
My plans are in the next two weeks to talk to as many people as I can. Since there are houses (two that are within 1,000 feet) that have wells/septic...I imagine I can feel comfortable *assuming* my land would be similar? My only reservation is paying money now for a perc test and well drill before the land is even accessible via the road. I would have to fill in part of the ditch and remove a fence and clear trees for a well drilling company to enter, and then I would not be able to purchase the land with cash - leading to a whole different headache along with the chance of someone else buying it. I know finding out there is no water means everything is a wash, but I assume since wells nearby work I have a good chance of finding water too. Deeper, perhaps...but possible?
I viewed the purchase contract and it did have 'purchase is contingent upon buyer being able to build'. I'm not sure what the time-limit would be, but I would find out within a few months of purchase if land is good to build on, and if it's the purchase contract both buyer and seller are liable when signing their name. Correct? Maybe I am just ignorant with the contract?
I would buy the land and then relax. I have cheap (less than 200/mo) room and board currently and will have that available for the next few years. Before winter comes, I would ideally like to pay for an entryway (rough), cut all the dead trees down and save for firewood, pay for a well & electricity to it, and erect a garage with water and electricity running to it. I would be able to pay for most of that with my monthly wages that I save up, but some would be from a small personal loan. I'm guessing 5,000-7,500 of loan debt by end of 2014...which I would chip away through the winter and by spring time have it be much less. Then in the spring, I would begin planting the shelterbelt and working the land. A house would not start until 2+ years of ownership. The septic may be installed late 2015 if I had my ducks in a row.
Sorry for the lengthy topic, it's a passion of mine and hopefully this can be useful for everyone in this situation.
I would worry more about the septic system than the well. The well, if they drill down far enough, you will hit water, although it might cost you. There are areas that septic systems won't go in at all. I have seen lots that septic systems won't go in that are RIGHT NEXT to huge neighborhoods with tons of other septic systems, but for some reason, THAT land won't perk. It really can be hit or miss. So AT LEAST get the perk test which is pretty affordable anyway and doesn't require a truck to go in there (just a soil scientist and his car/small pickup and possibly a backhoe).
Because if you go through all this only to find out that you have land suitable for hunting and not a homesite, the value is going to plummet, and then you won't get much out of this whole deal.
I would worry more about the septic system than the well. The well, if they drill down far enough, you will hit water, although it might cost you. There are areas that septic systems won't go in at all. I have seen lots that septic systems won't go in that are RIGHT NEXT to huge neighborhoods with tons of other septic systems, but for some reason, THAT land won't perk. It really can be hit or miss. So AT LEAST get the perk test which is pretty affordable anyway and doesn't require a truck to go in there (just a soil scientist and his car/small pickup and possibly a backhoe).
Because if you go through all this only to find out that you have land suitable for hunting and not a homesite, the value is going to plummet, and then you won't get much out of this whole deal.
I am sure that land here is fluid from one house to another in this area. I am not certain there wouldn't be discrepancies. Do you know what 'makes or breaks' the perc test? I understand it is a grade done on the soil and that there are two types of tests. I believe around here a hole is dug an the septic tank installer or inspector fills it with 1-5 gallons of water and times it. There are more expensive and extensive tests where you hire a soil 'scientist' to gather soil and test it in a lab. So what made those septic systems not go in right next to huge neighborhoods?
My understanding from talking to a septic installer is that the test grade determines the length of leach fields. Well, if it fails - can I not bring in sand or clay to meet the determined grade at an additional cost? If I were on a small lot and had a grade C or fail I realize that the length of the field would be too long for the lot, however with 3 acres don't you think there is no issue with that even with a poor soil grade?
Getting a soil engineer in for a perc test will require what I mentioned for a well driller if they need any equipment besides a shovel on the land.
I viewed the purchase contract and it did have 'purchase is contingent upon buyer being able to build'. I'm not sure what the time-limit would be, but I would find out within a few months of purchase if land is good to build on, and if it's the purchase contract both buyer and seller are liable when signing their name. Correct? Maybe I am just ignorant with the contract?
What do you mean --you "viewed the purchase contract". YOU should be the one submitting a contract on your terms. It sounds like you should get an experienced real estate attorney to help you draft the contract and to put in appropriate contingencies. Is the Seller paying for a survey? Are they providing title insurance?
For the purchase to be contingent on the property being suitable to build, you need to determine that BEFORE you buy. You don't have time after you buy to make that determination. Once you buy the land, any contingencies you had in the contract are no longer valid. A contingency is in the contract so that you can back out of the contract BEFORE you buy...and not lose your down payment.
EDIT: By the way, clay is NOT good for a septic drain field.
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