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We have a large bedroom that needs to be completely refinished. It's currently wood paneling with wallpaper over it, that's also been painted and textured ceilings. The floors are these plastic faux-wood tiles attached directly to the subfloor, some of which have been removed/broken. We also need to replace 2 or 3 windows in the bedroom, which we'll hire out.
We feel comfortable demo'ing the walls and ceilings, but we are totally not sure how to deal with the floors. We are going to have carpet installed in this room, but I'm not sure whether it can be installed right over the existing flooring or if we should have a new subfloor installed. If we decide to have a new subfloor installed, is this something the carpeter can do, or do we need to hire a carpenter to do that first? Does it make the most sense to do this after taping/mudding/sanding, but before painting (due to trim installation)? Or would you install carpet as the very last step?
Here's the order in which we're expecting to tackle the steps, please let me know if you think there's a better way to do it:
1) Demo walls and ceilings (remove trim & doors prior) 2) Have windows replaced (outside hire)
3) Install new insulation
4) Hang drywall on ceiling
5) Hand drywall on walls
6) Tape/Mud ceiling joints
7) Tape/Mud wall joints
8) Sand ceilings and walls 9) Have carpet installed (outside hire - possibly also replace subfloor) 10) Install trim
11) Prime & Paint
If the subfloor is not damaged by water or excessively gouged from removal of "tile" there is no reason to replace it. Even if it does get beat up from removing tiles it is almost certainly more cost effective to overlay with 1/4" laun than to actually remove & replace subfloor. Any comment carpet installer will have experience doing a pre-installation luan overlay. In fact if that tile is not pure plastic / vinyl but includes any asbestos it best to leave it inplace and overlay with luan.
I agree that painting is often done prior to "final flooring" as even if the carpet installer scuffs a wall it is much easier to touch up paint than deal with a "worst cast scenario" for disasterous paint spill soaking into new carpet.
Btw if you are truly demoing out the existing drywall it would be foolish not to properly insulate all walls & ceilings. The added R-value in the exterior walls will likely do far more to increase comfort in the room than new windows by themselves and the acoustic properties of insulating interior surfaces is a HUGE plus. Do not neglect the ceiling -- even if there other occupied floors above it, the added "solidness"' you get in both sound control & temperature stabilty is something that makes a tremendous improvement in bedrooms. Also an excellent time to consider upgrading wiring for things like ceiling fan, OTA antenna, home theatre / whole house music, and generally safety / durability. Maybe an extra hour or so of work that really pays off down the road. If you have ducts for forced air heat or A/C in the walls / ceilings worth using appropriate sealing techniques to insure improved flow through HVAC system. Don't skimp on the windows! If you keep cheapo vinyl units you'll regret it very soon. A few heat/ cold cycles and the fit will be much deteriorated compare to a quality window made from a wood core that expands / contracts at the same rate as the home's framing. Low maintaineance vinyl cladding is fine over the propert wood core.
Do not remove the drywall from the ceiling, so you don't have to deal with the insulation, or debris. You can skim coat it instead of removal. I disagree with Chet on vinyl windows and think they are superior in longevity to any other.
If the subfloor is not damaged by water or excessively gouged from removal of "tile" there is no reason to replace it. Even if it does get beat up from removing tiles it is almost certainly more cost effective to overlay with 1/4" laun than to actually remove & replace subfloor. Any comment carpet installer will have experience doing a pre-installation luan overlay. In fact if that tile is not pure plastic / vinyl but includes any asbestos it best to leave it inplace and overlay with luan.
I agree that painting is often done prior to "final flooring" as even if the carpet installer scuffs a wall it is much easier to touch up paint than deal with a "worst cast scenario" for disasterous paint spill soaking into new carpet.
Btw if you are truly demoing out the existing drywall it would be foolish not to properly insulate all walls & ceilings. The added R-value in the exterior walls will likely do far more to increase comfort in the room than new windows by themselves and the acoustic properties of insulating interior surfaces is a HUGE plus. Do not neglect the ceiling -- even if there other occupied floors above it, the added "solidness"' you get in both sound control & temperature stabilty is something that makes a tremendous improvement in bedrooms. Also an excellent time to consider upgrading wiring for things like ceiling fan, OTA antenna, home theatre / whole house music, and generally safety / durability. Maybe an extra hour or so of work that really pays off down the road. If you have ducts for forced air heat or A/C in the walls / ceilings worth using appropriate sealing techniques to insure improved flow through HVAC system. Don't skimp on the windows! If you keep cheapo vinyl units you'll regret it very soon. A few heat/ cold cycles and the fit will be much deteriorated compare to a quality window made from a wood core that expands / contracts at the same rate as the home's framing. Low maintaineance vinyl cladding is fine over the propert wood core.
Thanks for your insight. I didn't clarify earlier, but I think the subfloors might have some odor issues from previous home owners who I think left the windows open while it rained a few times. There was carpeting laid over these tiles when we moved in and you could clearly see the stains in the low pile carpet in front of the windows. I still detect an odor in that room and I can only assume it's coming from the subfloor. There might have even been animal-related issues at one point. But overlaying it with 1/4 plywood luan might be an option worth exploring.
I also didn't mention earlier, but we do plan to re-insulate the walls. I was under the impression that we couldn't install insulation in the ceilings - they are on the 2nd floor and as far as I was told, our pitched roof has some kind of venting to allow the hot air that rises and accumulates on the 2nd floor to escape. But I'd be willing to hear more on this topic. We are in the Northeast, btw (Long Island). * AH! I remember now - the Home Inspector said there needed to be open air to allow the soffits to vent and keep the roof cool. He said if we insulated the 2nd floor under the roof, it can shorten the life of the roof. Also, we don't have an attic on the 2nd floor or any access to the space between the ceiling and roof.
The largest window in the room is already an Andersen crank window. We are planning on replacing the other three windows in the room with Andersens.
I think I'm sold on having the carpet installed as the very last step.
Do not remove the drywall from the ceiling, so you don't have to deal with the insulation, or debris. You can skim coat it instead of removal. I disagree with Chet on vinyl windows and think they are superior in longevity to any other.
We have reason to believe the previous owner of the house let the roof deteriorate to the point of there being a leak inside. I can see in the back corner where the ceiling was patched, since the texture is different there from anywhere else. I don't know just how bad the damage was or if there are any remnants of it up there, but in my previous post I mentioned that there was an odor issue in the room. I think more than likely it is coming from the floor due to stains that were visible on the carpet when we first moved in, but I suppose it could also be coming from the ceiling/walls where there appears to have been a leak.
If it is truly advised to leave the ceiling up there and just re-texture, I'll definitely consider it. I just don't know if it's smarter to do it now while we're tackling the whole room.
You will never regret your Andersen windows. Ours are 20+ years old and you can still buy the hardware for them.
the only thing about anderson windows that i hate is the full screens. i dont like the fact you cannot open the screen. I much prefer the half screens
also, how do the anderson windows tilt in to clean, I have never seen the clips they make then do that, my windows have things on the side i slide in and the window tilts in
I'd pull/replace and insulate the ceiling to be certain everything was ok and to give the room a total new look. I'd also add electrical/cable outlets/wiring while the walls were open. Also, take photos of the open walls before closing. I did this on a remodel when my place was re-wired and re-plumbed and my house insurance rates went from $2,000 annual to $1,200 - no kidding - it was considered a new home because of the remodel and proof thereof. Good luck!
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