Soundproofing Wall with Kitchen (hardwood floors, how much, fireplace, window)
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I'd like to soundproof a wall in a bedroom that is shared with the kitchen so that it's more quiet. At the moment, all kitchen noise is easily heard in the bedroom. Even running water in the kitchen sink is very audible in the room, as well as using drawers, cabinet doors, etc.
What is the best economical way to soundproof that wall? Here are the ideas I've come up with so far (all to be done in the bedroom):
- Installing bookshelves (Ikea Billy) against that wall, and filling it with books and other stuff. Will this work? What I'm worried about is how much of the wall needs to be covered in order for this to be effective? I don't think I'd be able to fully cover that entire wall with bookshelves, as I need to leave some room for the bedroom door to open/close. Also, is it okay is the bookshelves don't go all the way up to the ceiling? Here's a picture that might help:
The one I'd be getting would not be a built in bookshelf. And I've been thinking about sticking foam or other sound-dampening material to the back of the bookshelf before placing it against the wall for increased sound absorption efficiency. I'm just wondering if the bookshelf doesn't cover that entire wall and with gaps at the top and a sizeable area near the door, if this would still be effective overall?
- The bedroom has hardwood floors and there is no carpet or rug at the moment. Could an area rug or full-room carpeting alone solve this problem, without the need for the bookshelves?
- How about putting up a few decorative sound/acoustical panels on that wall instead. How do those compare witht he bookshelves? Which is more effective?
- the other option I've been considering is covering that wall with sound-proof wallpaper, or installing cork tiles. But, I don't know how effective either sound-proof wallpaper or cork tiles are, and how it would compare with the other options.
The room has a finished textured wall. There is no way to install wallpaper directly on a textured wall, right?
I look forward to hearing your opinions and experiences, and would greatly appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance!
Thank you for the link. It's very useful. But, I'm still wondering how well the particular options I mentioned in my post would work for soundproofing a noisy wall.
If you have a sensitivity to the sound of running water, economical sound reduction measures aren't going to give you the outcome you want. Sound and vibration isolation is very expensive. That's the reality.
I'd try to reduce the noise sources if the budget is the concern.
What's your budget?
Can you or won't you open the wall?
Putting "mass" against the wall may or maynot work- especially if there is vibration.
Opening the wall, adding off-set and staggered studs with a 3/4" standoff plus sound batt insulation will yield better results than any other method. By implementing this method you've only increased the wall thickness by 3/4"- hardly noticeable.
Even GG (GreenGlue) has its limitations due to the "mass" (drywall) being attached to both sides of the existing studs. Another method is "hat channel"; but again the total mass is still attached to the studs.
How big a project are you up to, and how much do you want to spend? You can buy soundproof drywall at most home centers. Either install it over existing drywall, or go really big and remove your drywall, put in soundproof insulation, and then install the soundproof drywall.
You can buy both soundproof drywall and soundproof insulation and with both, you will be in silence, but it will take effort and money...
The wall behind the headboard of my master bedroom backs up to the wall our entertainment unit is placed in the living room, so I can hear the TV while in bed. I also have a fireplace on that same wall in the living room, that has two electric fans to move the hot air. Those fans are louder in the bedroom than they are in the living room.
I turn off the fireplace when I go to bed, and the fans continue to run for another 30 minutes after the FP is turn off. Drives me crazy hearing those fans blowing. Warm weather brings relief from that irritation.
I have investigated all the options for a cure. I plan to remove the drywall, insulate, and replace the drywall.
In my opinion, building a bookshelf and loading it with books would be a complete waste of time and money, it's not the way to go.
What's your budget?
Can you or won't you open the wall?
Putting "mass" against the wall may or maynot work- especially if there is vibration.
Opening the wall, adding off-set and staggered studs with a 3/4" standoff plus sound batt insulation will yield better results than any other method. By implementing this method you've only increased the wall thickness by 3/4"- hardly noticeable.
Even GG (GreenGlue) has its limitations due to the "mass" (drywall) being attached to both sides of the existing studs. Another method is "hat channel"; but again the total mass is still attached to the studs.
Well, my budget is not big. The bookshelves for example would cost around $250. But, with that I'd also be getting storage space for books and other things. I don't think I could spend let's say 250 alone on soundproofing construction.
How big a project are you up to, and how much do you want to spend? You can buy soundproof drywall at most home centers. Either install it over existing drywall, or go really big and remove your drywall, put in soundproof insulation, and then install the soundproof drywall.
You can buy both soundproof drywall and soundproof insulation and with both, you will be in silence, but it will take effort and money...
The wall behind the headboard of my master bedroom backs up to the wall our entertainment unit is placed in the living room, so I can hear the TV while in bed. I also have a fireplace on that same wall in the living room, that has two electric fans to move the hot air. Those fans are louder in the bedroom than they are in the living room.
I turn off the fireplace when I go to bed, and the fans continue to run for another 30 minutes after the FP is turn off. Drives me crazy hearing those fans blowing. Warm weather brings relief from that irritation.
I have investigated all the options for a cure. I plan to remove the drywall, insulate, and replace the drywall.
In my opinion, building a bookshelf and loading it with books would be a complete waste of time and money, it's not the way to go.
Do you mind elaborating more on why you think the bookshelf would be a waste in this case? I'm interested to learn more. As far as I know, books act as good sound absorbers (maybe not?). Also, I was planning on sticking sound-absorbing foam or similar material to the back panel of the shelves. You think all this won't eliminate noise at all?
This is the easiest, economical, and best looking option I can think of how to solve this. How much would another layer of drywall on top of existing cost? And would that be more effective? If yes, how much more effective than the bookshelves, do you think? And, how thick would the layer have to be?
"Can't open the wall"- is this a rental? You don't own?
If that's the case- just bear with it/ utilize the bookcases.
If you want the least evasive and better than the bookcases; just add a layer of 5/8""X" drywall (this is the fire rated drywall- it's denser than regular 5/8"). Attach it with GG AND VERY FEW SCREWS. Finish and paint.
Do you mind elaborating more on why you think the bookshelf would be a waste in this case? I'm interested to learn more. As far as I know, books act as good sound absorbers (maybe not?). Also, I was planning on sticking sound-absorbing foam or similar material to the back panel of the shelves. You think all this won't eliminate noise at all?
This is the easiest, economical, and best looking option I can think of how to solve this. How much would another layer of drywall on top of existing cost? And would that be more effective? If yes, how much more effective than the bookshelves, do you think? And, how thick would the layer have to be?
My guess would be that the bookshelves are not going to do much is anything to block the sound. Unless you entirely cover the wall, the ability to block sound transmission is greatly reduced. Think about it this way: open a window just an inch and you will let most of the sound from outside in - even though that open window is only < 1% of the wall of the room. Obviously it is not as extreme with a wall, but the principle still holds. First, your bookcases are not going to cover the whole wall, and you won't entirely fill the bookcase with books, so in the end you may only end up covering 50 - 70% of the wall.
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