Vinyl Siding Job in South Jersey (roofing, windows, insulated, installing)

[Frequentflyer77]

Hello,

I'm trying to get a feel for the cost of vinyl siding jobs in South Jersey.

Got a quote from one of the bigger names based in Cherry Hill for my 2-story colonial home. 35 squares, 190 feet of soffit, 295 feet of facia, 230 of gutter (replacing) with gutter guards, 5 pairs of new shutters, 4 1/2 panel, premium full-back insulated vinyl siding (in premium color). Home does have a few "complex" areas as for as facia goes. This includes removal of old aluminum siding and wrapping with new drainable house wrap

$37,995.

[K'ledgeBldr]

Originally Posted by Frequentflyer77

Got a quote from one...

And the other three?

[Frequentflyer77]

I haven't gotten any others yet. I honestly liked the people who came out the other day. I got a good explanation of the product and everything they were going to do. Got a walk around the house with the guy showing me different things they'd repair before capping everything. I didn't really feel pressured into the sale, but of course I didn't have an idea of cost. I do have someone else coming tomorrow.

[Nlambert]

You need to get three bids. Cost alone doesn't make for a good or bad deal. You need to look at quality as well and know what a quality grade looks like.

I grew up hanging vinyl siding for my dad. He owned a vinyl siding company for decades before switching over to full construction.

We wouldn't run anything but Heartland, Norandex, and Napco which at the time were the top quality brands. Heartland was expensive but it also was nearly impossible to break, didn't fade, and came with a lifetime warranty. If it ever got broken or fell off, we would get it warrantied and they paid us to replace it. It was truly a one time install. I don't believe Heartland is around anymore and not sure on Norandex.

There are some really cheap vinyl sidings on the market. They sag, fade quickly, crack if you accidentally sling a rock from a mower, etc....

Here's what you need to ask the contractor about the brands...

-How thick is it? (A good quality is .038-.040" thick) - Thicker will be more rigid and durable.
-Does the brand they intend to use have an acrylic top layer? This makes it very hard.
-Is it a colorfast siding? You can find the brand and look for ASTM D7251 or ASTM D7856 certifications on the box.
-Does the siding have double or single row hems (nailing slots)? Double hem gives more nailing area for better resistance against wind.
-Make sure the profile is at least 3/4" deep if you want it to mimic real wood siding.

And most importantly.... what is the warranty? You want one with a lifetime, tranferrable, warranty as those are only offered by the best of the best. If it comes with a 5-10 year warranty that's a good indicator that by that time it can be expected to begin to fail.

There are also profiles to consider. A 4" clapboard is going to be the cheapest. Then a 5" clapboard. Then D4 (Double Dutch lap) and finally D5 (Double dutch lap). (you can google those for pictures of the profiles.

Finally, ask the contractor some questions about their techniques:

How do they install the siding? If they use hand staplers, run away. They need to be using roofing nails for the most security. Staples always fail at some point.
Do they install foam board insulation behind the siding? (They should.... it is cheap and adds additional insulation to the house and allows some give if the siding is impacted and reduces the chance of breaking)
Do they miter the J-channel around windows and doors? A good installer will. Someone in a hurry will just butt the channel together and it creates gaps in colder months.

Then ask to see their work.

Go drive by homes that they have done. If the siding looks wavy, they drive the nails in too tight which is poor technique. Siding has to expand and contract.
Make sure they are installing the lap joints to face away from the front of the house. If you can see seams from the street, they installed it incorrectly.
You also need to make sure they allow enough overlap in the siding joints to allow the siding to contract without exposing the wall behind it. 2" overlap is the standard.
Look at their soffit work. If you don't see any vented soffit around the house, they installed incorrectly. There should be vented soffit every so often to allow the attic to breathe.

[kristenleex]

Omg that’s ridiculous. I thought my quote of 6k for labor was crazy. I’m in NY

[Nlambert]

It may not be crazy for the amount of work the OP is having quoted. Let's break it down to get a ballpark (OP.... keep in mind the prices in my area are likely a lot lower than yours). I'm going to use a box store for material pricing since I don't have access to wholesale pricing. Keep in mind this is MATERIAL ONLY. I am also guessing since I don't actually know all the dimensions of the house to make a better judgment. You really can't estimate that closely without being there so take this with a grain of salt. I will tell you what we charged labor per foot to install siding, soffit, fascia, and gutters.

For the TL;DR version, skip to the end.

35 squares, 4 1/2 panel, premium full-back insulated vinyl siding (in premium color).

There are 2 squares of vinyl siding per box. One box is $125 for run of the mill stuff that a homeowner can buy at a box store. Non-insulated, very cheap. 35 squares / 2 = 17.5 boxes. Let's round to 18 boxes. If you're using a good quality you could expect to pay $250 per box. 18 x $250 =$4,500 for siding.
With that siding you need starter strips @ $6.50 per strip (1 strip is 12.5 ft)- $6.50 x however many running ft = Let's estimate 400 ft. $6.50 x 32 strips = $208
J-channel is $5 per strip (12.5 ft per strip) $5 x however many feet you need for soffit, windows, doors, gable ends, etc... We could assume as much as $300 for J-channel.
You will need corner posts at each outside corner. $20 per corner post (they're 5 ft long) x 2 posts per corner. Let's say 8 corners. $20 x 2 x 8 = $320 for corner posts.
Nails. You'd likely use at least two 50 lb box of 1.5" galvanized roofing nails on the job. $50 per box x 2 boxes = $100
Add in caulking, and supplies - ~$300

Just the vinyl siding material could be $5,800 in material.

190 feet of soffit,
Cheapest stuff at the box store is $15 per 12.5' piece. Estimate 18 pieces. $15 x 18 = $270 in material
J channel is factored in the siding costs as are nails, caulk, etc...

295 feet of facia,
50' of trim coil is about $100 per roll. (2' H x 50' L) If your fascia board is 4", then you could expect to get about 3-4 pieces out of one cut. So total potential length of straight fascia metal might be around 200 ft. You'd need at least 2 rolls, so let's estimate $200 in trim coil material. No labor to bend it or cut it.

Trim nails are about $8 per lb. Let's estimate 5 lbs. $8 x 5 = $40 in nails.

230 of gutter (replacing) with gutter guards - (assuming 5" gutter with 4" downspouts and wire mesh gutter guards)
If it's seamless gutter you can estimate about $220 per 150 lineal ft for raw coil material to make a K5 gutter. you'll need two rolls. $220 x 2 = $440 for metal.
Gutter hangers. 1 every 16", so ~ 174 hangers. A pack of 100 is $44. You'll need two. $88 for hangers.
Outside miters (corners) are ~ $13 each. We said 8 corners, so $13 x 8 = $104 in outside miters
Inside miters (corners) are ~ $13 each. Let's assume 4 inside corners, so $13 x 4 = $52 in inside miters
Downspout outlets. Let's assume 8 downspouts. $1.20 per outlet x 8 outlets = $9.60 in outlets.
Downspouts. $18 per 10 ft length. Let's assume 8 downspouts at 20 ft length. $32 x 16 = $512 in downspouts.
Gutter guard - (Economy) $25 per 20 ft. $25 x 11.5 = $290 for gutter guard
We can figure in ancillary supplies. Screws, caulk, etc... ~$300

Total cost of gutter material could be $1,800 or more.

5 pairs of new shutters
This varies and can be as cheap as $30 per pair or as much as $120 per pair for vinyl. Let's use $65 per pair. $65 x 5 = $325 for shutter material

This includes removal of old aluminum siding and wrapping with new drainable house wrap
Removing the old siding and gutter won't be cheap. You could be looking at $3k-$5k just for removal and cleanup.

Tyvek house wrap is $150 per 9'H x 50'L roll. You could need $1,500-$2k or better worth of wrap. Depends on the size of the house.

Vinyl siding and ancillaries - $5,800
Vinyl siding labor - $2.75 per running ft install ($1,728 labor)
Soffit - $270
Soffit labor - $2.75 per running ft install ($2.75 x 190) - $522.50 labor
Fascia and ancilliaries - $250
Fascia install - $2.75 per running ft. If freezeboard is there, add $.35 per running ft ($2.75 x 295 = $811.25)
Gutter and all ancilliaries - $1,800
Gutter install/forming - $3.50 per running ft - ($3.50 x 230 ft = $805 + ($4.50 per downspout x 8 = $36) = $850
House Wrap - $2,000 - Assume about $600 in labor.
Siding/gutter removal and disposal- $2,700
Factor in permits, etc.... and other items that I may have missed off the top of my head.


$37,995.


You could safely estimate that in South Alabama you may pay over $23-$25k for the same work if we did it and we were hard to beat on prices. I would imagine costs are much higher in New Jersey. I don't know that it's really that unreasonable from what little info I have to go on.