Last month's electric bill (Redux) (Houston: new home, water heater, camper)

[HoustonRonnie]

So, we built a new Perry home into which we moved in early June. 3000 sq/ft, one story. We moved from a 1980 sq/ft 1 story home in the Silverlake area. I'm proud to report that our June electric bill for the bigger home was $55 less for the month than the smaller home during the same month last year... $319 vs. $374. Two A/C's vs. one, radiant barrier, double pane insulated windows... kept the thermostat basically at the same temp: 75, front door south face on both.

I'm a happy camper.

Ronnie

[EasilyAmused]

See, I'm seeing all these numbers on newer homes and people doing tricks and flips for lower bills and I'm curious....

But here's where I'm at.

1960 House. 4,000 sf. Detached garage. 1/2 the windows replaced and blown-in insulation.
Canopy of 60+year old oak trees. There's a south wind all the time here.

Three units. One on 75 always. Two that are 75 during the day and 68 at night. Oh, and the units are 7-14 years old.

...I'm staying under 400 a month. Last June was a steep one over 500, but that was one heck of a June.

So my question is, are all these "energy efficent" homes really built they way they are claimed. Or do big trees and detached garage make that much difference? Because I always hear how god-awful old homes are, and it doesn't seem that bad from the numbers I'm seeing.

[HoustonRonnie]

Originally Posted by EasilyAmused

See, I'm seeing all these numbers on newer homes and people doing tricks and flips for lower bills and I'm curious....

But here's where I'm at.

1960 House. 4,000 sf. Detached garage. 1/2 the windows replaced and blown-in insulation.
Canopy of 60+year old oak trees. There's a south wind all the time here.

Three units. One on 75 always. Two that are 75 during the day and 68 at night. Oh, and the units are 7-14 years old.

...I'm staying under 400 a month. Last June was a steep one over 500, but that was one heck of a June.

So my question is, are all these "energy efficent" homes really built they way they are claimed. Or do big trees and detached garage make that much difference? Because I always hear how god-awful old homes are, and it doesn't seem that bad from the numbers I'm seeing.

That's why I started this thread. I'm seeing on the other thread 2500 - 4500 sq ft homes with bills of under $300. I have no clue how they do that. I've lived in Houston for 19 years and my high bill in June July Aug has never been under $300. That's four separate homes, ranging in age from 25 years old to newbuild. In each, I kept the thermostat between 74 and 76 at all times... one zone, two zones, three... didn't matter.

I actually watched them build this new Perry home. I'm one of those noodges that went over almost every day to monitor progress. They did everything they said was included such as radiant barrier, R33 in the attic, double pane windows all around, Energy Star this and that including A/C units. I can only conclude that it does make a difference. If I can cool a newbuild that's 1000 sq ft larger than the older home I recently lived in for $50 - $60 per month less, then I can come to no other conclusion. Neither home had a detached garage, neither has trees to speak of..... I had a garage fridge in both... I can only attest to what I've experienced.

Lastly, I work in energy finance and I've never believed the forward curve on natural gas prices. For that reason I've almost always selected a plan that floated against spot gas prices. I never fixed a rate, ever. I've been paying between 9.5c and 11.0c kwh.

Ronnie

[pat33]

Hi

When I still lived in Germany and was planning on moving to Houson, I used to read these threads about high bills. It really did scare and shock me. I now am in Houston for 2 years and live in a 2200 sq ft home with a 4 ton 13 seer unit/ pay 9,3 -10 cents per kw. My highest summer bill was 180.00$. My last bill was 130.00 for July. I guess it always depends on how cold you want it in the house.
My ac is set all day at 78. I do not need a cold house at night (68) and do not understand why alot of people set the ac colder at night.

Pat

[tstone]

From personal experience the newer buildings I lived in were quite a bit more efficient, better balanced and more comfortable than the older ones. I experienced the same as Ronnie, larger newer home = smaller bill all 12 months. For Jun-July $158 for 2200 sq ft, 1 story w/ 10-ft ceillings, 15 yrs old house.

Detached garage might help or might hurt if you have a bunch of windows there instead. I haven't figured that one out yet. Trees make a difference. Failing that, solar screens are even better. And you can keep all your windows open w/o heating up the place, fading the carpet & furniture and losing your privacy. But what you save with trees may be eaten up by foundation and other concrete repairs.

My tricks and flips = those screens + some CFL bulbs + programmable digital thermostat. Ceiling fans were pre-installed w/ the house. I got the cheapest R410A AC system because the old one was pooped out due to lack of previous owner's maintenance. That's it. I'm thinking about getting insulation put in because @ 15 yrs old it has settled some.

I'm also paying the same with fixed rates. Hovering between 9.5 and 11.0c as well.

[EasilyAmused]

Yeah, but what I can tell is that maybe I'm running 60-80 bucks more a month with my AC is cranking lower. I just know that there are long periods of time that the units aren't running. Without AC on, the house stays right around 80 on a 95 day. But yes, I hit those low rates too. I'm thinking there's something to the detached garage.

As to tree roots, the house/pool deck and trees seem to have been getting along for almost 50 years. The driveway, not so much, but that's a different type of pour.

[tstone]

You mention cycling-- I have noticed one common thing in newer homes is to have a slightly undersized unit that runs almost all day and cycles at night. Benefit is it keeps the humidity significantly lower and the home more comfortable. Running the ceiling fans while the AC is on all day makes it feel much cooler on you. Keeping them on all day/night keeps the house better balanced. Also each unit might have mulitple air filters in the ceiling. Hottest air rises, gets sucked into the evaporator first, etc. Registers are along the perimeter of the house, and point directly toward the heat grade (windows) instead of the middle of the rooms.

The biggest downside is it takes freakin forever to cool things off if you set it higher while you're gone, as long as the sun is still out. If you have house guests in the afternoon, better to put it where you want it before 11am and hold it there or it may not cool down where you want it. Once it gets there, it will hold fine though.

All these minor details = more efficient than the older styles. Add better R values on newer brick, sheet rock, insulation, windows, shingles, etc and... you get the picture.

[wheretogo]

To make these comments more informative, please add how your dryer and cooking is fueled ? That DOES make a huge difference on your electricity bill.

I think most of the new homes (mine included) are using gasfor cooking and most builders provide a Gas connection and vent in the laundry room for the Gas dryer.

[EasilyAmused]

Originally Posted by wheretogo

To make these comments more informative, please add how your dryer and cooking is fueled ? That DOES make a huge difference on your electricity bill.

I think most of the new homes (mine included) are using gasfor cooking and most builders provide a Gas connection and vent in the laundry room for the Gas dryer.

My house is all gas except for the washing machine. It was all plumbed that way back in the 60's. I think the 70's and early 80's was more electric. I do have a massive Vent Hood that is electric and I have to run it when I cook. I have a professional range and it puts out a lot of heat. Without the hood running, it could easily cook up the kitcehn 5 degrees.

[tstone]

Gas only for the water heater and furnace. Water heater in attic keeps it hot in the summer but I dread the day it starts leaking.

Ceramic cooktop stove, plain-o electric in-wall oven.