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I'm looking at 2013 Camry's and found one certified from a dealer, it's listed for $ 15,189 on their website. I used Edmunds TMV and it's pricing the car in clean condition at $ 16,624 (certified), $15,087 (dealer retail).
So these numbers won't help me in asking to lower the dealers's pricing. Any other tools I can use to bring down the price?
Ask him for his best price. If you agree with the price then buy it...if not go somewhere else. In general dealers have less wiggle room with used cars as opposed to new cars.
Dealers have incentives to move the new cars in volume. That is not the case with the used cars. You best bargaining chip with a used car is if you know the car has been sitting for quite some time. In that case the dealer could be more willing to drop the price to get it out of their inventory. Also a crappy carfax report could work in your favor but I would stay away from a car that has a ton of records.
Find out exactly what their "certified" used car program is. Was it a basic inspection with interior cleaning, oil change and lube job? Or more intensive.
Do they have a carfax on the car? Repair records (possible if it was a trade in for a new car and the owner always used a dealership). Have all recall items been dealt with? Look the vehicle up you want so you are armed.
Do some online comparison shopping on the exact car you want in say 100 mile radius. Print out ads. Makes it look like you are even more willing to walk. Keep in mind the average markup on a trade in is 2 1/2 to 3 times their purchase price with some repairs usually small.
If they can't bargain down go for added value items. Have them put extended warranty and/or free oil changes for a year or 3. Double check ALL you final paperwork and make sure it's free and not rolled into the final price.
Also look for the agent that looks hungry for a sale, they need some commission. You can always tell them apart.
Always look like you're prepared to walk and MEAN it. They usually will call within 24 hrs if they are willing to hit your price point if you do walk.
Find out exactly what their "certified" used car program is. Was it a basic inspection with interior cleaning, oil change and lube job? Or more intensive.
Do they have a carfax on the car? Repair records (possible if it was a trade in for a new car and the owner always used a dealership). Have all recall items been dealt with? Look the vehicle up you want so you are armed.
Do some online comparison shopping on the exact car you want in say 100 mile radius. Print out ads. Makes it look like you are even more willing to walk. Keep in mind the average markup on a trade in is 2 1/2 to 3 times their purchase price with some repairs usually small.
If they can't bargain down go for added value items. Have them put extended warranty and/or free oil changes for a year or 3. Double check ALL you final paperwork and make sure it's free and not rolled into the final price.
Also look for the agent that looks hungry for a sale, they need some commission. You can always tell them apart.
Always look like you're prepared to walk and MEAN it. They usually will call within 24 hrs if they are willing to hit your price point if you do walk.
What do you think is a reasonable drop percentage?
I really don't like haggling, I feel like just saying, 12.5k, that's it, cash or I walk out.
Is that an absolute no-no?
If you don't like haggling then pay the price they are asking. It is not that hard...usually it is just a meet in the middle game unless they know the car will sell that week.
If you don't like haggling then pay the price they are asking. It is not that hard...usually it is just a meet in the middle game unless they know the car will sell that week.
I understand, haggling is not a requirement to buy lol. I just find it to be such a waste of time to go back and forth, back and forth.
Like it's a common knowledge you ask a lower price, way lower price, like your example, 11k. The dealer knows when they give another amount, you will just counter it again. You already know your limit, they know their limit...so why not just go straight to 12.5k instead of starting at 11k then readjust it to 12.5k?
Anyways, just a thought. I mean, would they not sell it to you for 12.5k if you didn't start haggling with 11k?
I figure, if they won't sell it to you for 12.5k, it doesn't matter where you started, they still won't budge.
Or are they more likely to give you the car at 12.5k, if you started haggling at 11k, then readjusting, with a final 12.5k, rather than giving one amount and that's it?
I've actually always wondered.
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