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This is true. Just clearing the codes is like clearing the cache on your computer. Disconnecting the battery is like rebooting your computer and everything gets reset back to ground zero.
If I did disconnect the battery would I have to wait 60+ miles for any codes to reappear, as if cleared with a scanner, or would they come back right away after reconnecting? Legit codes of course.
I would need to consider the benefits to risk with that one because that's a lot of miles in an unsafe vehicle. Also would want the diagnosing mechanic to be able to read the codes right away. I could write them down but if new ones came up, I'd prefer if they didn't drive around with that crazy seizing caliper problem and keep wearing down the new brakes, waiting for possible codes to appear while being a road hazard. ...that sounds way more dramatic than I meant but I don't know how else to put it.
I know you guys are right though, one code can throw another. Hmm
So, all that said, if I disconnect the battery would codes return immediately or take some milage to reappear?
If I did disconnect the battery would I have to wait 60+ miles for any codes to reappear, as if cleared with a scanner, or would they come back right away after reconnecting? Legit codes of course.
I would need to consider the benefits to risk with that one because that's a lot of miles in an unsafe vehicle. Also would want the diagnosing mechanic to be able to read the codes right away. I could write them down but if new ones came up, I'd prefer if they didn't drive around with that crazy seizing caliper problem and keep wearing down the new brakes, waiting for possible codes to appear while being a road hazard. ...that sounds way more dramatic than I meant but I don't know how else to put it.
I know you guys are right though, one code can throw another. Hmm
So, all that said, if I disconnect the battery would codes return immediately or take some milage to reappear?
Might not be unsafe but only troubling. Not all of the codes mean anything except that your emission control may no longer be working right. Of course, you cannot pass an emissions inspection if your car is required to get one.
Its the caliper seizing that makes it not safe. I live out in the country, 45mph+ is impossible to avoid. Going that speed and then suddenly braking because of the caliper is dangerous, especially with the lovely tailgaters we have. Also it can make the steeringwheel and whole car shake as if I have a flat tire. That usually happens on the highway at 65mph. I take hwy 265/65 or 540 to get to most places. If I can, I take the extra long route through town on business 65 because it's only 45mph.
Remember I'm on my 3rd caliper. Mechanic said one of the codes was ECM not communicating correctly with brake system. The brakes, rotors, and calipers were done by a different shop but they greased what needed to be greased also bled the brake lines. Said the brake lines and master cylinder are fine.
I passed inspection this November. Got a "Waiver" from the DMV for the p0446 evap code since I could prove with receipts sank over $200 into fixing that specific code. Also got new tires just to pass inspection.
2006 was just a horrible year for Pontiac Torrent. I've read so many complaints online and they're mostly 2006 model.
Evap code 0446 was annoying, probably wasting gas, but I could live with it. The other codes are troubling.
If I did disconnect the battery would I have to wait 60+ miles for any codes to reappear, as if cleared with a scanner, or would they come back right away after reconnecting? Legit codes of course.
I would need to consider the benefits to risk with that one because that's a lot of miles in an unsafe vehicle. Also would want the diagnosing mechanic to be able to read the codes right away. I could write them down but if new ones came up, I'd prefer if they didn't drive around with that crazy seizing caliper problem and keep wearing down the new brakes, waiting for possible codes to appear while being a road hazard. ...that sounds way more dramatic than I meant but I don't know how else to put it.
I know you guys are right though, one code can throw another. Hmm
So, all that said, if I disconnect the battery would codes return immediately or take some milage to reappear?
The ECM works in what are called drive cycles, meaning the ECM continuously monitors sensor readings over a period of time. If the ECM detects a problem, it sets a "pending code" but does not yet turn on any dash warning lights at that time. If the same error is detected again on subsequent drive cycles, the error is confirmed which then trips the appropriate warning light on the dash. Once corrected and the ECM no longer detects the same problem for a set number of drive cycles then the codes are cleared and the error lights go off. If a code scanner is connected to the ECM, then both pending and stored codes can be seen as they occur.
Disconnecting the battery clears all of the both pending and stored codes. Once the battery is disconnected/reconnected, the ECM restarts the drive cycle process from a clean slate so to speak. If problems are still detected by the ECM, then the same codes may return again which could happen within a few minutes or after driving several miles depending on what the specific problem is.
Regarding your safety concern, the best and easiest thing you can do right now is to pull the ABS fuse from the fuse box. This will disable the ABS system but will also cause the ABS light on the dash to come on. However, if it is an ABS system malfunction that is causing the caliper issue then pulling the fuse will fix that in the short term while the actual cause is being investigated. The only downside is not having the ABS system functional, but some cars don't even have ABS brakes.
The ABS system uses wheel speed sensors to sense wheel speed and traction. If the wheel speed sensors are bad then that can trigger false ABS system engagement. The wheel speed sensors are built into the wheel hubs, so the wheel hub must be replaced in order to replace the wheel speed sensors. At 100K miles, if your car still has the original wheel hubs then it may be time to replace them to restore normal ABS system function.
Wheel hubs for your model year cost $55-$100 each depending on brand and it looks like GM offered both ABS and non-ABS equipped vehicles for the Torrent in 2006. If your particular vehicle does not have ABS then there are no wheel speed sensors in the hubs.
I passed inspection this November. Got a "Waiver" from the DMV for the p0446 evap code since I could prove with receipts sank over $200 into fixing that specific code. Also got new tires just to pass inspection.
2006 was just a horrible year for Pontiac Torrent. I've read so many complaints online and they're mostly 2006 model.
Evap code 0446 was annoying, probably wasting gas, but I could live with it. The other codes are troubling.
Sometimes GM just doesn't get it right. The EVAP issues can be fixed but you can blow through $200 real quick just in labor costs. Did the mechanic by chance replace the gas cap when trying to fix the EVAP issue? Sometimes a bad gas cap or not tightening it enough after filling up at the gas pump will cause EVAP system issues. There are of course other causes as well, but that is a common one.
Ok....after doing some further research, the ABS wheel sensors on your car are not integrated into the hubs which is good news, but unfortunately not much cheaper, however that means they can be cleaned.
You might want to read through these thread posts from other Torrent owners.
Ok I'm going to try disconnecting the battery and abs fuse to see what happens.
Anything I can do myself is a good deal. I'll let you all know how that goes.
Read the links... thanks... still looking at them.
I tried replacing the gas cap a long time ago for the p0446 code but it didn't fix it. Someone once told me it would be worth it to invest in a gas cap from the dealer... is that true? Asking because I know for a fact dealerships often get some parts from chain stores like auto zone and such. $7 gas cap or $20 gas cap... they look the exact same to me including the gasket/seal on it, is there a difference?
Ok I'm going to try disconnecting the battery and abs fuse to see what happens.
Anything I can do myself is a good deal. I'll let you all know how that goes.
Read the links... thanks... still looking at them.
I tried replacing the gas cap a long time ago for the p0446 code but it didn't fix it. Someone once told me it would be worth it to invest in a gas cap from the dealer... is that true? Asking because I know for a fact dealerships often get some parts from chain stores like auto zone and such. $7 gas cap or $20 gas cap... they look the exact same to me including the gasket/seal on it, is there a difference?
It depends on the parts vendor....some are certainly better quality parts than others. Rockauto has ACDelco gas caps for $6-$11 depending on whether or not you want the tethered version, but ACDelco is OEM GM parts. If you've already replaced the gas cap then most likely the EVAP problem is something else like the EGR valve or EGR tubing being clogged up as was mentioned in one of the links. If you got a waiver then I wouldn't worry about the EVAP issues right now until after the other more pressing problems are resolved. When you fill up at the pump, tighten the gas cap 2-3 full turns past when it first starts clicking to make sure it's tight. Most people will stop at the first click which doesn't always guarantee a good seal.
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