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Yes, it's long, but I'm trying to cover as many things as I can think of so that when it's time, I'm well prepared. I've asked a few of these questions here and there, but would like everything all in one place as I'm very serious about this five year plan. Any advice, information, etc are welcome, and even telling me I have failed to think of something is fine, but please don't be like what I've seen in other forums where the natives aren't all that tactful.
I've read a lot of these posts on moving to Alaska, and just like many places, some people tell you "go for it", and others tell you "stay away". I've been to Alaska, absolutely loved it, and the older I get, the more I love it. I have lived in cities, larger cities, most of my adult life, and as a young adult, that's what I liked. After living in Miami, I moved to another state, and lived in a smaller town. I wasn't sure how I would feel about it, but I realized, overall, I much prefer less people, even if that means I don't get all of the conveniences that a large city has to offer. To me, those conveniences are just not worth it. Currently I'm back in a mid sized city, for the time being, and I realize I can't stand it.
So, Alaska has been a place I've thought about moving to for about 15 years now. I've read a lot, I've done a bit of research, and I have an acquaintance who lives up there now. This person shares a lot of information, and it's unbelievable what I've learned as they learn. (They are from CA and just moved up last year.) I realize that there's going to be a lot more to learn, and I would like to go in to this as well prepared as possible.
My five year plan consists mainly of saving up and hoarding every last dollar that I earn that doesn't need to be spent on food each month, or my car insurance, things like that. After the tiny amount of bills I have to pay, I'm putting it all in to an account and not touching it. I plan to rent, at least for awhile, so my five year plan consists of obligatory first, last, deposit, pet deposit. I also want to have 2 years worth of rent, bills, food, etc saved up. I also need to set aside a good chunk because I'm coming with nothing, really. I will have only what fits in to my car, and that car also includes the pets that I'm bringing...the ones that are still alive when the move happens.
In addition, I want more information. People talk about how different it is, and I've seen some differences, but I'm curious what else do I not know about yet?
* I'm ok with darkness for long stretches of time. I'll probably be the only person in the state who looks forward to that time of year. Long stretches of daylight...well, that's what black out curtains are for. I love the cold. I prefer cold over hot. I actually do better when it's cold. I do not function well in the heat, (I've lived in both hot/tropical climates, as well as very cold climates...I know, for a fact, I do better in cold.)
* The person I know who lives there now sometimes shares food prices. Honestly, they don't seem any more expensive than where I was just before where I live now, and actually cheaper than when I lived in Seattle, with the exception of fruit.
* Rent is about the same as Miami, and cheaper than Seattle, from what I've been finding.
* Heat...not entirely sure, but I do know that where I just lived, people talked about spending a lot of money on heat to the tune of a couple thousand each winter, (sometimes less, depending on what type of heat they had).
* I'm still a little confused on the whole tax thing there. I understand that after a certain amount of money spent on a single item, you just don't pay any more tax? I keep forgetting how it works.
* Is there state income tax, and if so, what's the percent?
* One thing I just learned recently is about bear proof garbage cans. Apparently you can't just go get them at any time, they come available at a certain time, and according to the person I know, he had to be put on a waiting list. Comments on that?
* I am very familiar with guns, have no problem with using guns, enjoy shooting them actually, but really, seriously, what type of gun does one need to stop a ticked off grizzly...or is there one? I just can't imagine the spray doing anything but pissing it off. I've read a lot about the body language to know when a bear is definitely about to attack you, and when one is maybe not going to if you do the right things...but surely there's more.
* I think moose are neat, but as it was where I just moved from, I really don't feel any urge to get close to one.
* What other creatures do I need to worry about if I go out on a hike? Snakes? Venomous spiders? Angry possums like in Houston?
* I've been to states where people have no problem becoming your friend, and I've been to states where people are cordial, but really don't feel like getting to know anyone new. The person I know who lives there now seems to be able to make a ton of friends, and get people to talk to him whether they know him or not, and with very few exceptions, every one has been pretty cool. Is that the norm, or is my friend just really good at getting people to like him?
* How the heck do I get up there? Which is the best way? Do I drive through Canada all the way up, or do I take that ferry...and can I get to the Anchorage area that way, or do I still need to drive through Canada?
* If I have to drive through Canada, how hard is it to get the okay to transport your weapon through there? I know I need to let them know in advance, and get all the paperwork, but is it impossible, or is it just a matter of getting the paperwork?
* Same thing with pets.
* I'm not sure I really want to live IN Anchorage. I think I'd rather live in like Wasilla or Eagle River. Thoughts on those two places? Eagle River looks decent, but I don't know too much about Wasilla except that prices on rents seem to be a bit cheaper. Is it simply because it's further out from Anchorage, or is there another reason?
* Where are the less than desirable parts to live in either Wasilla, Eagle River, or, last choice, Anchorage? Every place has better areas, and not good areas...so where to avoid?
* I've lived in a lot of areas, and each area seems to have its own set of little customs. Are there any customs one should know about in Alaska so I don't tick off any natives? (Aside from the general: don't be a jerk, be courteous and considerate of others, don't mess up nature, don't demand that where you live in AK be like where you came from...which, no, I wouldn't move there if I wanted it like where I've lived before.)
* What do they throw on the roads in winter? Is it more chemicals that rust your car, or do they use something different?
* How long is a normal winter? This year it snowed well in to April, but it did that in the Northeast as well. I have absolutely zero problems with that...and again, may be one of the few, or only one who does not have a problem with that.
* I feed my pets a raw diet, and it would be fantastic to fish for some of their dinners. I don't eat fish, so the last time I fished, I was a kid. I know how to do it, but don't know a thing about particular fishing seasons, or the limits, or how much a license costs, how long that lasts, etc. Information?
* Do. Not. Laugh. My dad hunted, and I understand the reasons for hunting, but I've not done it. Nonetheless, I don't have an aversion to it, especially for deer meat, or whatever else. BUT, I'm not an idiot, either, and know better than to go out and try it on my own without any knowledge. Does anyone ever teach that, or do you just have to hook up with the right people? I'm being dead serious.
* I work from home as my own boss. Nonetheless, it wouldn't be so bad to get some little part time job somewhere for a little money, and also to meet people. Is it impossible to find?
* Because it seems to stay cooler in summer, does anyone even have a/c?
* Are dogs allowed out in the woods on hikes with you, or is there some kind of law, or a leash law or anything like that?
* If winter clothes were warm enough for Maine, would they be warm enough for Alaska? (I still have my Carhart.)
I know more questions will come up, but these are questions I think about often. Some of them sound ridiculous, but if you're native to AK, or you've lived there a long time, don't forget that the lower 48 likes to nanny the snot out of us over every little thing.
If you actually made it through this post, you have my respect. Not many will bother, they'll just think "tl;dr".
Thank you in advance for any information, comments, assistance, advice, etc.
Some quick replies to get the ball rolling:
No state income tax right now. That could change. Fairbanks fiscal cram session leads to new focus on revenue, spending, services | Alaska Dispatch News
Sales tax: no state sales tax. Some cities & boroughs have sales tax. Here's the details on Wasilla's sales tax: City of Wasilla, AK : Sales Tax Forms
Getting here: drive through Cananda or take the ferry from Bellingham to Haines and drive through less Canada or take the ferry from Bellingham to Juneau then the cross-golf ferry from Juneau to Whittier. But as part of the current budget crunch, they are parking all ferries on July 1st. So who knows what'll happen from there...
I live in Wasilla and we do not have a bear problem so I use a normal garbage can. Anchorage and Eagle River have a bear problem...
Less desirable places to live in Wasilla: hard to define. There's some obvious "bad neighborhoods" like Williwaw or Horizon. But otherwise it's a mix up. Best way to be sure is to work with a good realtor.
Some quick replies to get the ball rolling:
No state income tax right now. That could change. Fairbanks fiscal cram session leads to new focus on revenue, spending, services | Alaska Dispatch News
Sales tax: no state sales tax. Some cities & boroughs have sales tax. Here's the details on Wasilla's sales tax: City of Wasilla, AK : Sales Tax Forms
Getting here: drive through Cananda or take the ferry from Bellingham to Haines and drive through less Canada or take the ferry from Bellingham to Juneau then the cross-golf ferry from Juneau to Whittier. But as part of the current budget crunch, they are parking all ferries on July 1st. So who knows what'll happen from there...
I live in Wasilla and we do not have a bear problem so I use a normal garbage can. Anchorage and Eagle River have a bear problem...
Less desirable places to live in Wasilla: hard to define. There's some obvious "bad neighborhoods" like Williwaw or Horizon. But otherwise it's a mix up. Best way to be sure is to work with a good realtor.
Thanks! That does help. I knew there was a ferry to get me to Juneau, but didn't know if there was another one to complete the trip. I'd much rather deal with the ferry...if it's still going when I'm ready.
Also thanks for the tip on the obvious bad places...that's what I meant.
The page you gave me about the Wasilla sales tax is what I heard about, I just thought it was across the board.
Again, thanks for the information.
So...did I post this in the wrong place, was the post too long, (trying to be thorough), or am I just asking really stupid questions that no one wants to answer? (If you're not from an area, you ask everything you can think of to get an idea of even the most basic day to day stuff.)
You are posted in the right place... Some threads get more traffic than others. You might come back (in this same thread) and start asking single, specific questions...
If I get some time, I'll try and answer some more of what you asked.
My five year plan consists mainly of saving up and hoarding every last dollar that I earn that doesn't need to be spent on food each month, or my car insurance, things like that. After the tiny amount of bills I have to pay, I'm putting it all in to an account and not touching it. I plan to rent, at least for awhile, so my five year plan consists of obligatory first, last, deposit, pet deposit. I also want to have 2 years worth of rent, bills, food, etc saved up. I also need to set aside a good chunk because I'm coming with nothing, really. I will have only what fits in to my car, and that car also includes the pets that I'm bringing...the ones that are still alive when the move happens.
The more $$$ you have when you come, the better prepared you'll be to deal with what may come. So good call here. Pets: the less you have, the easier it will be to find a rental.
* The person I know who lives there now sometimes shares food prices. Honestly, they don't seem any more expensive than where I was just before where I live now, and actually cheaper than when I lived in Seattle, with the exception of fruit.
I have family in Seattle & Portland. Our food prices here in Anchorage/Wasilla aren't that much higher on most stuff. Now if you compare food prices in Bethel to food prices in the mid-west; BIG difference.
* Heat...not entirely sure, but I do know that where I just lived, people talked about spending a lot of money on heat to the tune of a couple thousand each winter, (sometimes less, depending on what type of heat they had).
We live in Wasilla in a new, 5* plus house with natural gas. Our gas bill is a couple of hundred a month in the winter, depending on outside temperatures. In the summer it's a lot less.
* I am very familiar with guns, have no problem with using guns, enjoy shooting them actually, but really, seriously, what type of gun does one need to stop a ticked off grizzly...or is there one? I just can't imagine the spray doing anything but pissing it off. I've read a lot about the body language to know when a bear is definitely about to attack you, and when one is maybe not going to if you do the right things...but surely there's more.
Where I hike here in Wasilla, I'm more worried about moose than bears. I've been around bears all my life. I've always viewed bears as wanting to stay out of my way. Moose are like meth addicts on heroin. They get pissed off and go crazy for no reason.
That being said, I've always though a .44 is fine for bear.
* What other creatures do I need to worry about if I go out on a hike? Snakes? Venomous spiders? Angry possums like in Houston?
No snakes in Alaska. I don't think we have venomous spiders. No possums. Just moose. Oh, spruce hen. They won't hurt you, but they'll scare the crap out of you by exploding out of the brush in front of you.
* I've been to states where people have no problem becoming your friend, and I've been to states where people are cordial, but really don't feel like getting to know anyone new. The person I know who lives there now seems to be able to make a ton of friends, and get people to talk to him whether they know him or not, and with very few exceptions, every one has been pretty cool. Is that the norm, or is my friend just really good at getting people to like him?
You'll find Alaska pretty friendly.
* If I have to drive through Canada, how hard is it to get the okay to transport your weapon through there? I know I need to let them know in advance, and get all the paperwork, but is it impossible, or is it just a matter of getting the paperwork?
No handguns. And you'll have to declare and do the paperwork on rifles.
* Same thing with pets.
They'll need all the right shots and paperwork.
* I'm not sure I really want to live IN Anchorage. I think I'd rather live in like Wasilla or Eagle River. Thoughts on those two places? Eagle River looks decent, but I don't know too much about Wasilla except that prices on rents seem to be a bit cheaper. Is it simply because it's further out from Anchorage, or is there another reason?
I like Wasilla. Palmer is good too. And the surrounding areas.
* I've lived in a lot of areas, and each area seems to have its own set of little customs. Are there any customs one should know about in Alaska so I don't tick off any natives? (Aside from the general: don't be a jerk, be courteous and considerate of others, don't mess up nature, don't demand that where you live in AK be like where you came from...which, no, I wouldn't move there if I wanted it like where I've lived before.)
Can't think of anything specific off hand...
* What do they throw on the roads in winter? Is it more chemicals that rust your car, or do they use something different?
I think it's just sand... Maybe they mix in something...
* How long is a normal winter? This year it snowed well in to April, but it did that in the Northeast as well. I have absolutely zero problems with that...and again, may be one of the few, or only one who does not have a problem with that.
For Wasilla, about mid-October to mid-April is winter. You can always get some late or early freezes or snow. I've seen snow in late May a few years ago.
* I feed my pets a raw diet, and it would be fantastic to fish for some of their dinners. I don't eat fish, so the last time I fished, I was a kid. I know how to do it, but don't know a thing about particular fishing seasons, or the limits, or how much a license costs, how long that lasts, etc. Information?
Get to know the ADF&G regulations: Fishing in Alaska, Alaska Department of Fish and Game
* Do. Not. Laugh. My dad hunted, and I understand the reasons for hunting, but I've not done it. Nonetheless, I don't have an aversion to it, especially for deer meat, or whatever else. BUT, I'm not an idiot, either, and know better than to go out and try it on my own without any knowledge. Does anyone ever teach that, or do you just have to hook up with the right people? I'm being dead serious.
I don't think anyone teaches... I think its just a matter of getting connected with people who will show you how.
* I work from home as my own boss. Nonetheless, it wouldn't be so bad to get some little part time job somewhere for a little money, and also to meet people. Is it impossible to find?
Depends on your skill set...
* Because it seems to stay cooler in summer, does anyone even have a/c?
Most homes don't.
* Are dogs allowed out in the woods on hikes with you, or is there some kind of law, or a leash law or anything like that?
Wasilla has a leash law. Maybe the MatSu Borough (our version of a county) does too. It's common courtesy to keep you dogs under control.
* If winter clothes were warm enough for Maine, would they be warm enough for Alaska? (I still have my Carhart.)
Should be. For southcentral Alaska, our winters aren't necessarily harsher, its just that they are longer.
I know more questions will come up, but these are questions I think about often. Some of them sound ridiculous, but if you're native to AK, or you've lived there a long time, don't forget that the lower 48 likes to nanny the snot out of us over every little thing.
Ask away.
I've made some comments in red above. All of them are my opinion, which is worth exactly what you paid for it.
Wildlife: Don't worry too much about bears. Prevention is your best bet: make noise and be aware. Agree with the above that moose are more of a danger. No snakes and not many nasty critters other than swarms of mosquitoes in season.
Winter: Maine gear should be good. Generally winter is from before Halloween to late April, but it depends on the year. Continuous snow cover is common. Cold snaps bring solidly below zero temps for most areas, but temps are generally mild compared to the Interior. Expect several big windstorms each year. Tthese are warm chinook winds that gust over hurricane force and make an icy mess as the snow melts.
Location: Eagle River is a nice suburban-feeling area near Anchorage, up against the Chugach. You need to like more of a narrow valley feel. The MatSu Valley is a longer and harder commute to ANC, and has some sketchier spots (along with many nice places). Lots of land out there.
Work: Part-time retail/hospitality work should be easy enough to find during tourist season.
It sounds like the winters are pretty much like Maine, but maybe just a bit colder...not much. And the winds...maybe more winds than in Maine, but I know about those biting cold winds...still, the cold is so. much. better. than the heat.
Good to know about the bears. So, if I'm hiking, should I just talk out loud, would that be enough? I'm really scared of coming up on a bear...I know darn good and well, I would never be able to "play dead". I would prefer not to have that problem, but I would also like to get out and enjoy the beauty of Alaska...peace and quiet...man...what a dream. I guess I have to do more studying. And get a .44
As for the little part time job I was thinking I might get to get to know people, and why not, bring in a little extra change: I've been in the hospitality industry for most of my adult life, (not in the last couple of years since I now work from home), so it's right up my alley.
I noticed on another thread that someone mentioned coolworks for seasonal jobs...that would be kind of cool. I'll look in to that to see if there's anything near the area I would like to move to. I would love to be a tour guide through Denali...can't imagine a better office. I guess it's probably a little too far from Anchorage area though to do any kind of daily commute. I have to remember that Alaska is HUGE and what is close on other state maps isn't close in Alaska.
Really appreciate the information, and the link about the fishing. Thanks!
It sounds like the winters are pretty much like Maine, but maybe just a bit colder...not much. And the winds...maybe more winds than in Maine, but I know about those biting cold winds...still, the cold is so. much. better. than the heat.
Good to know about the bears. So, if I'm hiking, should I just talk out loud, would that be enough? I'm really scared of coming up on a bear...I know darn good and well, I would never be able to "play dead". I would prefer not to have that problem, but I would also like to get out and enjoy the beauty of Alaska...peace and quiet...man...what a dream. I guess I have to do more studying. And get a .44
As for the little part time job I was thinking I might get to get to know people, and why not, bring in a little extra change: I've been in the hospitality industry for most of my adult life, (not in the last couple of years since I now work from home), so it's right up my alley.
I noticed on another thread that someone mentioned coolworks for seasonal jobs...that would be kind of cool. I'll look in to that to see if there's anything near the area I would like to move to. I would love to be a tour guide through Denali...can't imagine a better office. I guess it's probably a little too far from Anchorage area though to do any kind of daily commute. I have to remember that Alaska is HUGE and what is close on other state maps isn't close in Alaska.
Really appreciate the information, and the link about the fishing. Thanks!
I lived in AK for over ten years and did a lot of hiking. I can count the number of bears I encountered while hiking on one hand, and never had a real confrontation. Worry about mosquitoes, not bears.
Not sure whether Denali has tour guides per se. The bus drivers are drivers first and foremost, and my impression was that the designated tour buses had rangers for narration. Could be wrong about that. Daily commute from Southcentral would be out of the question anyway.
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