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Hi--I've never posted in the auto forum before, but I could really use some advice. I need to buy another vehicle--something that will handle well in snow and on rural roads, so preferably 4-W or all wheel drive, with decent gas mileage. I'm not as concerned about looks as I am about reliability. I haul teens and tweens everywhere. Normally my DH checks out cars for me, but he's traveling nonstop for the next six months and working 24/7 while he's on the road, so I need to do this in the next month myself. I want to buy used, low mileage--I'll hold on to it, and drive it into the ground. I've been looking online mainly at 2009 and 2010 Subarus--the Foresters and the Outbacks--but I'm open to any and all suggestions. I'm paying cash, and I'm not trading anything in. If I can do this for under $20,000.00, it would be great.
Are there any tricks to this? I'm a little lost here. I've read to wait to the end of the month, don't let them know if you really like a vehicle...etc. Can I expect them to knock off 10-15%? How do I know if I'm getting a good deal? Should I hit all the dealerships and play them against each other for comparable vehicles? I'm a pretty savvy shopper, but this is a little embarrassing--I've never bought a car on my own before. Any and all advice would be appreciated.
i think you've got a good choice on the vehicles. what you need to do is some research, which with the internet these days, makes it very simple.
visit autotrader.com, and go shopping! enter the brand (Subaru), model (Forester/Outback), and year model (2009/2010)...you'll also be able to define your search area with your zipcode...
what this will do is give a good idea of how much those vehicles are being sold for in your area, which is what you're needing to know. of course, the price will be what they're asking, and rarely do they sell for the asking price...just keep that in mind.
also, make sure you get "carfax" and "autocheck" vehicle reports, they will tell you if the care has been in any major wrecks, or if there's any title defects.
about the price, leave emotions out of the deal...if they're asking $25k, offer a few thousand below, knowing full well they will most likely meet you somewhere in the middle...after their counter offer, if you're still not happy, let them know you're gonna have to go home and think about it...at that point, they'll most likely ask you what it's gonna take for you to buy right now...then maybe throw another offer a tad bit lower than they're asking, or you can ask for new tires, tinted windows, etc to sweeten the deal.
hope this helps, and if i missed something, i'm sure there'll be others with some solid advice.
Buying used always has some variability, but do get an idea for what the cars are selling for. I'd look at KBB.com and CarMax's website and see what the high end of pricing is (CarMax is high end), and then look for prices below those. I think edmunds.com also has true market value pricing for used cars, but it may only be for new.
When it comes to buying, always be ready to simply walk out - you're buying a mass produced car and you don't need to deal with any jerks. I usually check out the car in person, and if I like it, start looking for things wrong with it I can use to lower the price (a scratch, higher than average miles, bald tires, that kind of stuff). It might be good for you to have the car taken to a mechanic elsewhere than the dealer and inspected for $50 or so - this will tell you better than any CarFax if the car has been damaged or abused since CarFax only reports insurance information for the most part.
Since you have cash, you can do two things - offer a lower payment in cash on the spot, or negotiate financing with the dealer to get a lower price (with the dealer expecting to make profit on the interest over time), then pay the whole sum with the first payment (kind of a dirty tactic).
On a side note, if you are looking at Subarus, settle on a trim you like. You can get a base 2010 Forester with under 10k mi for the same money as a loaded 2008 2.5 XT with 30k mi and both will basically look the same and have the same reliability, but the loaded XT will be nicer to live with. I'd look at cars up to three years old and within your price range, and test drive the base models and uplevel models to familiarize yourself with what they offer and what you really want.
You have no idea how helpful this is. I'm in Nebraska--one thing I've noticed is that we have less selection, and the dealers list price for what seem to be comparable used vehicles is higher here than in adjoining states--is it because we haven't been hit as hard with the recession? Is it worth a drive to Kansas City if they're listing them for several thousand less, or can I use that to negotiate with a local dealer?
I've paid cash for most vehicles I've owned in my life and find that I get a much better deal from an individual selling a vehicle than from a dealership, personally. Mind you my price range tends to be in the $5,000 range when purchasing a used car so I'm usually looking at solid older vehicles, not as new as what you're considering. I'd love to have 20 grand to play with! )
I second the suggestion to spend some time browsing on sites like Autotrader, and also get anything you're interested in mechanic-checked and do a carfax report as well.
You need to know how to play the game. First you need to know what you are looking for and what minimum options you want to be there. Next do your research and see where the price sits for the item you are looking for. If on the low end its higher than you looking for, then you need to look for an older car. Next go to a site like Trader.com and set it to a 100 mile radius. This way you will know the pricing for different towns. Once you have a hit, go see the car (bring a printout with you). At the dealership show them the printout and tell them you want to test drive it (they will probably copy your drivers lic). During the test drive they will ask you things that sound like small talk, give them no personal information. If you like the car, dont tell them. They will take you to desk and start the bargaining process. Low ball them from the start (lets say $2000 less than what you are willing to spend). You will spend the next half an hour bargaining. Once the number is close to where you want it to be but they are not agreeable, stand up quietly thank them for their time and walk away. Go to your car, get in and make a fake phone call and read some alternate printouts you brought with you. If they are hungry for the sale, someone will come out and knock on your window. Go back in. They will usually offer you something to drink, take it. Some more small talk will occur and usually a manager might step in. This is where/when you go for the deal. Make your cash offer including all fees plus what you want fixed on the car. If they counter the offer, tell them the same dollar amount again but you are willing to pay cost on the the repairs and want free labor. If they counter offer within $1000 and accept the rest, close the deal. This process takes approx 2-3 hours and is a battle of the wills.
Here are some notes: Do not bring a partner with you, period. Arrive at the dealership mid-week after 5pm. Do not fall in love with the car.
During closing, I request all fluids & belts be changed as part of my repair list (and I've gotten them to change tires too).
If its a used Subaru you are looking for, look to buy it from a non Subaru dealership (I tend to stay away from generic used car lots) as they want to unload as soon as possible what doesnt fit in their floor plan. Also you will usually not have problems with getting the title.
You need to know how to play the game. First you need to know what you are looking for and what minimum options you want to be there. Next do your research and see where the price sits for the item you are looking for. If on the low end its higher than you looking for, then you need to look for an older car. Next go to a site like Trader.com and set it to a 100 mile radius. This way you will know the pricing for different towns. Once you have a hit, go see the car (bring a printout with you). At the dealership show them the printout and tell them you want to test drive it (they will probably copy your drivers lic). During the test drive they will ask you things that sound like small talk, give them no personal information. If you like the car, dont tell them. They will take you to desk and start the bargaining process. Low ball them from the start (lets say $2000 less than what you are willing to spend). You will spend the next half an hour bargaining. Once the number is close to where you want it to be but they are not agreeable, stand up quietly thank them for their time and walk away. Go to your car, get in and make a fake phone call and read some alternate printouts you brought with you. If they are hungry for the sale, someone will come out and knock on your window. Go back in. They will usually offer you something to drink, take it. Some more small talk will occur and usually a manager might step in. This is where/when you go for the deal. Make your cash offer including all fees plus what you want fixed on the car. If they counter the offer, tell them the same dollar amount again but you are willing to pay cost on the the repairs and want free labor. If they counter offer within $1000 and accept the rest, close the deal. This process takes approx 2-3 hours and is a battle of the wills.
Here are some notes: Do not bring a partner with you, period. Arrive at the dealership mid-week after 5pm. Do not fall in love with the car.
During closing, I request all fluids & belts be changed as part of my repair list (and I've gotten them to change tires too).
If its a used Subaru you are looking for, look to buy it from a non Subaru dealership (I tend to stay away from generic used car lots) as they want to unload as soon as possible what doesnt fit in their floor plan. Also you will usually not have problems with getting the title.
Good luck.
bro, you sound like an *******
and from your method that you are describing, you are the type thats going to get gouged by the dealer....trust me.
Is it worth a drive to Kansas City if they're listing them for several thousand less, or can I use that to negotiate with a local dealer?
Thank you...
absolutely, if you think you're gonna save more than what it cost (time & gas) to get you to wherever, then go for it!
just do your research, then do a little more research...and don't sweat the negotiation process. one thing that's helped me through a couple auto purchases that i learned from a good friend, when negotiating try talking as little as possible...inevitably, there'll be some ackward silence after you put your first offer in there, and that's for a reason...just sit there with a big smile on your face and wait for there response!
and like another poster said, there's cars all over the place...although, the dealer will want you to feel like this car you're wanting is a one of a kind!
and from your method that you are describing, you are the type thats going to get gouged by the dealer....trust me.
First: There is no room on this board for personal attacks. You can agree or disagree with my methods of shopping.
Second: I've used this method for shopping for cars for over 30 years. If I don't get what I want, within reason, I walk. That said I've owned every car I've ever gone looking for.
Third: Every person has their own comfort level of what they are willing to pay. You will never get exactly whats in your head, but usually within an acceptable range.
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