Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
We will proceed cautiously and hope for the best. It's not a primary car, but useful for hauling and the rare occasion we get snow. We're just not quite ready to replace it yet.
We will proceed cautiously and hope for the best. It's not a primary car, but useful for hauling and the rare occasion we get snow. We're just not quite ready to replace it yet.
Check the rad cold, dead cold for being full, not the over flow bottle where the cap probably is.
Check the engine oil level.
Check the repair order of when the new cap was installed and see if any coolant was added.
What was the problem with the old cap in the first place which was discovered during an oil change????
There is a test to seek blown head gaskets via the radiator, and it is a simple test where gases are with drawn directly from the rad on a running engine thru a chemical that turns color from blue. I own such a tool but haven't used it in some many years, and forget what the blue color becomes in the presence of exhaust in the coolant.
The stalling......... I would go to a god shop and see if they can find any vacuum leaks...... The problem is finding a good shop.
Avoid quickmart and the like shops where the so called techs are just broom pushers. They can change a tire maybe on a good day and not get too much wrong.
Was the coolant level low when you overheated? Using a cap rated for a lower pressure won't directly cause the vehicle to overheat , it will only allow the radiator to boil over at a lower temperature. So if it boiled over a little each day it might have lost enough coolant in a week to overheat.
If the coolant level wasn't low then the whole thing is probably unrelated to the cap. So we'd either be looking at something else that happened in the shop or a complete coincidence.
I don't think the stalling is related either way unless, as Frank suggested, the overheating may have caused something else to fail.
Also don't forget, if it did boil over, it would puke into the overflow tank and then be sucked back in as the rad cooled. So you would not lose any coolant
If the radiator fluid was significantly low, I would look very suspiciously at the cap myself... If the Lib's 3.7 is set to operate as "normal" with up to 18 lbs of pressure in the radiator, and they put a cap on that will start releasing pressure at 16 lbs, it may have spent a week slowly venting out radiator fluid. Once there isn't enough left, the engine overheats, which can cause all kinds of damage.
Nope.. Cooling systems are closed systems. Boilover goes into the catch tank and then back into the rad.
What are you basing this on? The fact that there's no white smoke, no foam in the oil, no coolant loss, and it only got hot the one time makes it sound like it's NOT a head gasket issue. I've never known a bad head gasket to cause stalling, either.
I drive a Jeep, and I can assure you that all of these things - and LESS - will often cause one of those beasts to run rough and/or stall. Jeeps are known to be extremely fickle that way. Go to a Jeep technical forum if you doubt what I'm saying.
Also don't forget, if it did boil over, it would puke into the overflow tank and then be sucked back in as the rad cooled. So you would not lose any coolant
Actually the coolant tank has an overflow tube that spits it out on the ground if it gets full.
I would check BOTH the engine oil level and the coolant level in the radiator.....one or the other may be low and could be the cause of overheating.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.