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yes the next day. he replaced the IACV then it seemed to drive ok on the way home, noticed some sputtering. the next morning the engine shook and sputtered terribly when slowing down to around 55mph and on the way to his shop the car would stall every time i slowed down to stop at a red light. That would never happen previous, so whatever he did made the problem much worse in that the car was stalling when idle and powering off, brakes wouldnt even work. So whatever he did in replacing the IACV did not fix the engine sputtering and addittionally caused the car to stall when slowing to a stop. Not much i can do now, will just hope that something was actually wrong with the IACV and i didnt waste $420 but sometimes its just the way it goes, learn and move on i guess.
Did you get him to give you the old IAC? ou can hook it up to a battery and see if it operates. That may not tell you if it operated correctly, but if it will nto operate at all, you know it was bad.
Sometimes the code wil givew a aprt that needs to be changed but when look at the manual it will have things to check first before actual repalcement. Once had a friend who need to change a pump on anti-lock barke that showed was malfunstioning. But when he checked aqs manual stated it really waqs the block that feed ower to the punp> code tells you a part is malfunstioning but it can be caused by soething else. that when when factory manual is important on repair as it can be alot of things often.
the car is now starting to sputter and shake again. this time its at around 25 mph and 35 mph when i start to decel a lil. i'm not sure what to do with this thing. maybe it needs the entire vacuum replaced. the catalytic converter is also shot which causes a rattling chirping sound from loose fragments inside it. fla has no emissions test and it costs over a grand to replace so just dealing with it now. might be better off just selling the car to the mechanic for a lil more that what ive spent already and find a new ride, mechanic was interested in buying the car
the car is now starting to sputter and shake again. this time its at around 25 mph and 35 mph when i start to decel a lil. i'm not sure what to do with this thing. maybe it needs the entire vacuum replaced. the catalytic converter is also shot which causes a rattling chirping sound from loose fragments inside it. fla has no emissions test and it costs over a grand to replace so just dealing with it now. might be better off just selling the car to the mechanic for a lil more that what ive spent already and find a new ride, mechanic was interested in buying the car
If your mechanic is "interested" in buying your car he is playing you. He knows what's wrong and he can fix it cheaply. He didn't fix it yet--hoping you would sell him the car.
DO NOT fall for this scam that many mechanics play.
would a vacuum leak cause the check engine light error code to show the IACV was bad? and if so could the IACV be fine and the vacuum leak be the real problem?
Yes. It's also possible that you have a vac leak & a bad IAC. Check for VAC leaks first.
the car is now starting to sputter and shake again. this time its at around 25 mph and 35 mph when i start to decel a lil. i'm not sure what to do with this thing. maybe it needs the entire vacuum replaced. the catalytic converter is also shot which causes a rattling chirping sound from loose fragments inside it. fla has no emissions test and it costs over a grand to replace so just dealing with it now. might be better off just selling the car to the mechanic for a lil more that what ive spent already and find a new ride, mechanic was interested in buying the car
If you have a bad cat you can end up with fragments blocking the exhaust and that can cause a whole host of issues. Since you have no emissions, you don't need to replace the cat, but at the very least, you should get it "gutted" (basically stick a shop vac on one end and then use a broom handle or something to smash up the cat) or replaced with a straight pipe.
If the car had one vac leak, it may very well have more. My suggestion would be to find a different mechanic and have them take a look. What a good mechanic should do in this case is hook up a scanner and then test drive the car and see what is actually going on when these sputters/shakes happen.
If you have a bad cat you can end up with fragments blocking the exhaust and that can cause a whole host of issues. Since you have no emissions, you don't need to replace the cat, but at the very least, you should get it "gutted" (basically stick a shop vac on one end and then use a broom handle or something to smash up the cat) or replaced with a straight pipe.
If the car had one vac leak, it may very well have more. My suggestion would be to find a different mechanic and have them take a look. What a good mechanic should do in this case is hook up a scanner and then test drive the car and see what is actually going on when these sputters/shakes happen.
mechanics here dont seem willing to do anything illegal with the Cat. At most they might find an after market product for 1/3 the price and install that. The rattling chirping from the Cat is getting absurd, if i'm keeping the car i need to address that.
mechanics here dont seem willing to do anything illegal with the Cat. At most they might find an after market product for 1/3 the price and install that. The rattling chirping from the Cat is getting absurd, if i'm keeping the car i need to address that.
Shop around. You can find "test pipes" made to bypass the converter. It costs about $150 to get one welded in. It might be technically illegal to leage it in permanently, but they generally do not have converter police. The problem is it will mess up your )2 sensor readings and your car will likely run rich and the check engine light will be on permanently (cover it with black electrical tape).
We had to take our car to a shop at night and pay in cash, but we found a guy to weld in a test pipe. Gas mileage improved slightly due to the lack of a converter, but probably was balanced partially by the O2 readings being wrong. We ended up getting about 2 MPG better, it should hav e been a lot more than that.
It may be illegal to sell a car with a test pipe welded in. We did not have to find out, we ended up scrapping that car.
If you have vehicle inspections you will not pas if you remove the cat.
You can find test pipes or delete pipes with bungs, this will allow you to reinstall your 02 sensors.
Aslo sims, a resistor, can fool the computer by giving it a reading, so your fuel maping is not way out of whack.
Few shops will do this as don't want to be fined if they get caught performing or to have performed the work.
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