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The wheel bearing should be replaced ASAP. That's a real safety concern. Shocks & struts are a lower priority. You've got time to shop around for those, or even go several more months if the ride isn't too bad.
There is a lot of noise on the front driver's side - that's where they say the bearing needs to be changed. I will try the bounce test, thanks for the suggestion. I'm hoping our friend can look at it this week.
The shocks/struts were recommended that they be replaced, so I'm just in the early stages of figuring out what really needs to be done and how we will do it.
There is a lot of noise on the front driver's side - that's where they say the bearing needs to be changed. I will try the bounce test, thanks for the suggestion. I'm hoping our friend can look at it this week.
The shocks/struts were recommended that they be replaced, so I'm just in the early stages of figuring out what really needs to be done and how we will do it.
Okay yeah, you need that wheel bearing replaced asap. And though it's certainly not a given, the passenger side front wheel bearing might not be far behind. You might consider replacing both, if that part of the work is not too high.
The catch here is this... Both procedures require you to have an alignment done. If you do not do both things together, you'll spend an extra $60 (approximately) on an alignment, after you replace your suspension at some point in the future.
Okay yeah, you need that wheel bearing replaced asap. And though it's certainly not a given, the passenger side front wheel bearing might not be far behind. You might consider replacing both, if that part of the work is not too high.
The catch here is this... Both procedures require you to have an alignment done. If you do not do both things together, you'll spend an extra $60 (approximately) on an alignment, after you replace your suspension at some point in the future.
Humm, changing a wheel bearing does not involve a wheel aliment.
Even if you have to remove the hub.
Wheel bearings are rarely changed in pairs.
One failing has no "bearing" on the condition of the others.
I'm just surprised they didn't try to get you for a brake job too
1. Humm, changing a wheel bearing does not involve a wheel aliment.
Even if you have to remove the hub. 2. Wheel bearings are rarely changed in pairs.
One failing has no "bearing" on the condition of the others.
I'm just surprised they didn't try to get you for a brake job too
1. Yes, it absolutely does - unless you don't want to do the job right.
2. Bearings wear out. There's a 50/50 chance that the second bearing will go out within 5,000 miles of the first. It's worth considering.
What makes you think you need new shocks all the way around?
Do the bounce test yourself.
Stand at one corner and bounce the car up and down, get it bouncing as good as you can, then stop. count how many times it continues.
1-1/2 possibly 2 more times is fine then it should settle, if it keeps bouncing that shock is bad.
repeat these at all 4 corners.
As for the wheel bearing, any noise, was it loose, is the tire wearing funny?
I agree get a 2nd opinion.
The bounce test is nearly worthless. It will only show when shocks are completely shot. The friction in the bushings alone mask poor shock condition and one person's body weight is not enough to move the car.
A shock is likely significantly sooner than a bounce test will show. I would judge the conditions of shocks through ordinary driving on roads with dips and bumps. If the car bottoms easily on moderate bumps the shocks have probably lost much of their damping. If you hear/feel lots of suspension movement on bumps - same thing.
She can easily bounce a Honda and at 190lbs myself I can bounce a full size truck.
If the bushings were bad she would also see tire wear from this and from the bad shocks/struts. Cupping of the tire would be a good indicator.
Are the shocks/struts leaking fluid, do they squeak when you do the bounce test, which is in all likelihood is what the shop did.
A vibrating steering wheel, uneven tire wear, or excessive bouncing after stops are also signs that you may need to replace your shocks and struts.
I think based on what you all are saying that it does need new shocks and struts. It is a very "hard" ride. In our apartment complex we have to go over speed bumps and there is a hard thump when I do. I don't drive this car, I have a 2010 Elantra that I drive every day so there is definitely a difference when I do drive the Honda.
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