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I've done this many times before,,,more than I care to relate , and I've always wondered..... "There must be an easier way".
After disassembling the starter motor, cleaning things up, installing new brushes, serviceing the commutator, it's time to reassemble.
Question: What is the trick to keeping the four brush holder assemblies compressed while putting the end plate back on the housing ?
Some end plate designs have a few holes near each brush location that will allow one to slip a piece of wire, or solder wick brade up and over the brushes to hold back the springs untill the end plate/brush assembly is over the commutaor and the long assembly bolts are in place. You can then pull the "helping hands" out and the brushes are driven forward etc.
Most starter design however do not provide for such obvious tricks. GM starters for example are closed and the brush assembly plate end except for the two bolt thru holes.
There's got be a trick,,or some kinda special tooling which makes this easier. I can't imaginr that rebiuld shops got thru the aggravation that always seems to occur.
Typical innane non-responce from someone who's never done it and hasn't a clue.
A replacement set of brushes is about $2.
I've probably rebuilt more stuff than you ever know but that is another topic. I prefer to replace the whole thing with a new or rebulit one without cutting any corners like some people do. How about them apples.
As to the OP question...it's called a (special home made tool).
I cut my eye teeth helping my dad in his repair shop in the days where a mechanic Rebuilt or Repaired starters/Generators from scratch. Those days they did not have parts houses and the like. He created his own small lathe to turn the armiture and brushes in many cases had to be soldered in place with no screw.
There was the time when 4 brushes were used and now they have two in many cars...that break down quicker. So much for quality control/longevity/service.
There are a couple of posters here who know what I'm referring too.
Stop and think...you also can make your special tool...I did for my own needs over 40 yrs ago...still have it in my Snap On tool box even tho I'm retired.
On older GM Delco alternators, you put a small cotter key in a specific hole where it holds the brushes compressed while you put the rotor back in. I know this is an alternator not a starter, but there is probably some similar trick for the starter you are working on. They were built by ordinary line workers at a high rate, maybe using specific **** or tooling, but frequently it's something simple like with the alternator.
The factory manual for your car may show a special tool, you can either buy it or make it, usually. What starter/car are you working on?
Steve...any chance I can persuade you to snap a picture of that home made tool and up load it on here ??
Mitch...I understand what you're saying ..it's just that often there are no access holes other than the holes for the two long blots that keep the whole assembly together. And the typical shoulder on the brush mount end plate that fits inside the housing in order to keep things centered as you put it back together doesn't help either.
Funny thing is this weekend project isn't even a car...it's a starter (permanent magnet type,,,not electrical field coils) is for a Briggs and Stratton 18 Hp lawn tractor motor.....But it's just a scaled down version of a typical automobile type thing. It was just that this time it occurred to me ask around for pointers..... for next time...and you're correct...clearly production lines have a "trick" for this procedure.
BTW...I have a fairly well equipped "home shop" including a Monarch lathe. and a Bridgeport milling machine ....so yes... I dress up the commutator etc...
Having said that clearly this not about "short cuts" etc
thanks guys
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Mitch & Steve
