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EDIT: I am not asking about TrueCar. My question is when/how to involve TrueCar in the process. Reading comprehension is key.
I know about TrueCar and how (and how not) it works.
Dealer has one price, TrueCar has one lower and my company's car buying perk (powered by TrueCar) is even lower. Since dealers pay a commission to TrueCar, should I even go through the process? Should I just simply mention the number (and that they need to go lower), do not even mention TrueCar, or should I still commence the process via TrueCar? Honestly, the current TrueCar price is pretty low, and it is the only reason why I am looking at new over used.
How should I schedule a test drive without screwing over the sales person doing the test drive out of the commission? Sounds like dealing with the internet team might lead to better deals.
Not sure how to even start off the negotation process over the internet. Simply go to a dealer's website and find a contact? I do not have the means to visit every dealer, but hopefully I should not need to.
Last edited by Tycho Brahe; 05-19-2016 at 01:22 PM..
I noticed building out a car to your exact preference is generally more expensive route. If you take something off the lot, it can be cheaper. So it depends on your flexibility in terms of color, options, price, etc.
I noticed building out a car to your exact preference is generally more expensive route. If you take something off the lot, it can be cheaper. So it depends on your flexibility in terms of color, options, price, etc.
My last purchase I managed to get $1000 under the USAA partnered TrueCar price. I was in there on the last day of the month at the end of the model year though.
Internet quotes are easy. Head over to edmunds and use their request a price quote dealio that contacts multiple dealers in your area and gets them in a price war. See if you can do better than the Truecar price. If not, just use that.
You need a drivers license mostly for a test drive.
Just have a friend do the test drive - then just pull over and drive.
This way your name is not provided.
If TrueCar gives you a price you would like to pay then walk in there with that price in mind. Negotiate and maybe you will get lower.
Or you can just go in there with the certificate and pay that price with no haggling. That is the perk of truecar for the buyer...no haggling.
This is what I did a few years ago when shopping for a second vehicle. Wasn't in the mood to deal with all the back and forth haggling, so I took to true car and researched a 2014 Honda Civic lease. For an EX model the best I saw at the time was $229/month with $0 down. Walked in with the true car certificate and told the salesman "This is what I want to pay and I'm comfortable with. If you can honor this price we have a deal". After speaking with his manager for about 10 minutes he came back and said "it can be done". Filled out all the necessary paperwork and my vehicle was ready the same day.
You need a drivers license mostly for a test drive.
Just have a friend do the test drive - then just pull over and drive.
This way your name is not provided.
I bought a new car in February 2015 and did not think TrueCar's pricing was all that great. My starting point is always 15% off of list and I was able to get pretty close to that. If your TrueCar price is near that, then go for it. That's a pretty good deal.
Also, try to avoid all the dealer add-on's like extended warranty and (especially) paint sealers like Zurich Paint Shield or anything like that. Most of them are junk and they will do a hard sell on you. If you want something like that go to a professional detailer that can properly prepare the car and apply the sealer.
There is a caveat to the extended warranty though. Say in the negotiation you manage to get the car down an additional $500(or get some dealer options thrown in like auto dimming mirror/fogs/all weather mats) if you agree to a $2500 extended warranty. As long as the warranty is one you can cancel for a full refund in the first 30 days as is common you can use it as a bargaining chip.
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