Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I have a 2012 Ford Fusion. I had my front brake pad replaced new rotors were recommended, but I was told I could get by if the rotors were just resurfaced and it would be about $200 less. I took the cheap way out, and now when I have to stop or slow down from Interstate speeds I get some shaking in the front end. So is this something dangerous that I need to take care or now or can I wait awhile before I get new rotors and pay labor again ?
Yeah, if you didn't have this problem before it's a bad brake job. Heck, it's a bad brake job either way because if it was doing this before a proper brake job would have fixed it.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with resurfacing your old brake rotors as long as the thickness meets the minimum tolerance after they're turned. But in this case something absolutely wasn't done properly. Take it back.
generally, you'll find that the front rotors on these cars don't have enough thickness from new when they have worn down from a lot of miles to allow a resurfacing and remain at or above minimum thickness.
For the sake of discussion, we'll assume that the shop did measure the thickness and it was OK after resurfacing and that the surface finish was within specs.
My bet is that when they reinstalled the wheels, they overtorqued the lug nuts and warped the rotors. Typically, this happens when a installer uses an impact wrench to install the nuts and (1) doesn't tighten the fasteners in the correct pattern, and (2) just allows the impact wrench to tighten the fasteners until he decides to let off the trigger rather than use a torque wrench to bring the fasteners up to spec torque.
At this point, the car is probably not unsafe to drive ... but you should get these old rotors replaced ASAP so that the proper brake functioning is restored. And don't go back to the shop that messed it up to begin with ... if they couldn't do it right the first time, it's unlikely that they have the skills/knowledge to do it right the second time, IMO. This is some of the easiest basic work in the automotive biz to do properly, yet it's not done in a lot of shops by all their techs.
I haven't heard of any shop resurfacing brake rotors in the last 20 years. New rotors are only $25-$30, where as 20 years ago they could run over $100. How can a shop say they can save you $200 buy resurfacing.
Just last week I put new brakes and rotors on the back of my daily driver. The total price for all the parts was $110, that was it.
I haven't heard of any shop resurfacing brake rotors in the last 20 years. New rotors are only $25-$30, where as 20 years ago they could run over $100. How can a shop say they can save you $200 buy resurfacing.
Just last week I put new brakes and rotors on the back of my daily driver. The total price for all the parts was $110, that was it.
Back to the OPs question. Warped rotors if that is what it is can increase your stopping distance. Conceptually they can also eventually wear the pads out or even cause the rotors to fail.
Having said that, the rotors on our truck and van are usually warped within a few months after we install them. We just drive on them. Never had any problems with that. I did have rotors (and drums) all crack at once during a panic stop situation. But that was in a 1969 Le Mans that had the rotors turned at least twice, maybe the drums too (can you even turn drums? I do not remember).
Thanks for the replies. I will get the rotors changed ASAP. I'm already tired of the way the brakes feel. If I provide my own rotors is there any reason to get the more expensive ones ? https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...ers=4294854978
As for $200 it may have been a little less I just remember the quote with the rotors was somewhere in the $800 range and without was in the $600 range. BTW I also had an oil change, and control and ball joints changed.
ETA The quoted price included the shop supplying the parts.
Thanks for the replies. I will get the rotors changed ASAP. I'm already tired of the way the brakes feel. If I provide my own rotors is there any reason to get the more expensive ones ? https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...ers=4294854978
As for $200 it may have been a little less I just remember the quote with the rotors was somewhere in the $800 range and without was in the $600 range. BTW I also had an oil change, and control and ball joints changed.
ETA The quoted price included the shop supplying the parts.
Nobody on this board can tell you how your shop will feel about installing customer-supplied parts. Some are fine with it, some simply won't do it for liability reasons.
I haven't heard of any shop resurfacing brake rotors in the last 20 years. New rotors are only $25-$30, where as 20 years ago they could run over $100. How can a shop say they can save you $200 buy resurfacing.
Just last week I put new brakes and rotors on the back of my daily driver. The total price for all the parts was $110, that was it.
This really depends on the model of car. Looking online, the cheapest rotors for my car are $56.00. If you want OEM, you can get them discounted down to $90 online. At a dealership parts window, they'd be $125 plus tax.
I can't remember ever replacing just pads. The rotors are totally shot any time I need a brake job.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
