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<>Come on, I can promise you the majority of the lug nuts on the road were last "torqued" by a garage gorilla with nothing but a maxed out air gun and imprudent trigger finger - a far worse situation that a little lube on threads.
And never using the proper star pattern of alternating lug nuts. Hence my reference to garages like NASCAR pit crews.
Location: By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthisle
Anti seize and threadlocker alter torque values by lubricating the threads... You're actually tightening the nut more than you should to reach the same torque
One firm involved states toque values may need to be reduced by 25% to achieve the same clamping force as with clean, dry fastener.
By golly the first time you break a lug wrench trying to remove a lug nut that's corroded to the stud, or you have to whack the wheel with a 8 pound sledge to get it loose from the center pilot, you will see the value of anti-seize.
By golly the first time you break a lug wrench trying to remove a lug nut that's corroded to the stud, or you have to whack the wheel with a 8 pound sledge to get it loose from the center pilot, you will see the value of anti-seize.
Randy Newman has a wonderful song in his operetta, "Faust" about the Lord and the Devil that applies here:
"Never in my life have I heard such b*11 $517". It's fun, look it up on youtube.
Since everything down there is made of steel it will all expand the same except for aluminum which might stretch the studs .0001 inch. Petrochemicals will just evaporate.
The reason the shop won't do it is a legal issue. Torque specs are based on unlubricated studs and any variation from that procedure lays them open to lawsuits if there is a failure.
Careful mechanics know better and know how to do it right.
Back on topic, I do not use anti-seize compound, although that is a valid choice. I have several cans of an out of production spray lubricant that contains tiny lead and copper particles. Works like a charm, even on boat trailer wheels.
They did not say the lugs t nuts woudl expand unevenly, they said the grease or antisieze compound would expand and since it is already squeezed into the space under pressure, put the lug nuts off (by causing them to self-spin, or even crack the nut or the lug.
Interesting to me someone commented replacing the lugs is time consuming. When I have done it, it was very easy and took only a few minutes. op the wheel off, tap the lugs out push new ones in. Done. Maybe newer cars are different. That is usually the case.
By golly the first time you break a lug wrench trying to remove a lug nut that's corroded to the stud, or you have to whack the wheel with a 8 pound sledge to get it loose from the center pilot, you will see the value of anti-seize.
Interesting to me someone commented replacing the lugs is time consuming. When I have done it, it was very easy and took only a few minutes. op the wheel off, tap the lugs out push new ones in. Done. Maybe newer cars are different. That is usually the case.
Depends on the vehicle and whether it's front or rear. Most front ones have been fairly easy in my experience, but some of the rear ones can be an absolute *****!
Never needed anti-seize on my lugs/wheel bolts, but I'm in Southern California and we don't see much precipitation. Also, my wheels come off every 3 months anyways. I do make sure to use anti-seize for other components that do not see frequent fastening/unfastening such as spark plugs/glow plugs. If I live in the Pacific NorthWest or New England area, I would bathe my car in anti-seize, WD-40, and other protectants.
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