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Old 01-16-2018, 07:34 AM
 
1 posts, read 665 times
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So I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty limited edition when I try to start my car it will not start because I have to keep my foot on the gas or it will stall I have to do this for about 20 minutes after I do this the car runs fine drives smoothly but once the car shuts off I have the same problem with starting the car back up does anybody have any ideas of what could be wrong with it I just got a new alternator put in so I know it's not the alternator thank you for all your help
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:16 AM
 
Location: Needham, MA
8,547 posts, read 14,012,666 times
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I want to say the idle is set too low but the fact that the engine runs fine once it warms up makes me think that's not the case.

Take it to a mechanic. They'll figure it out.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:18 AM
 
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Is the check engine light on? There are a number of reasons why this would happen but most would generate a code that would display the check engine light.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:21 AM
 
17,563 posts, read 15,226,764 times
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Just throwing things out there... I'd say there's a leak of some sort. On an older vehicle.. I'd probably start with the intake manifold gasket.. Small leak there as it gets warmer, seals itself and work backwards from there. A can of starting fluid would probably narrow it down if sprayed carefully. I think I recall Ford had a problem with the air cleaner housing(?) on the early 2000's Focus that would lead to a problem like this.. But.. my memory is awful and I may be confusing things here.

that's just a totally wild guess not being familiar with this vehicle at all. Of course, any of those vacuum leaks would likely cause a code to be set.. So, if there's no MIL lit up.. That doesn't totally blow my idea out of the water, but.. Certainly puts a dent in it.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:27 AM
 
Location: SC
8,793 posts, read 8,157,503 times
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Or it may be flooding due to injector leaks. Is there of huge cloud of black/gray when it finally starts?
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:30 AM
 
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this car's engine is entirely computer controlled.

the "fast idle" during start-up cycle should last about 2 minutes, maximum time, per federal emissions standards.

after that, the idle should come down to normal speeds without your assistance to keep the engine running normally.

There may be issues with the computer controls, engine sensors, or IAC (idle air control valve) unit, along with vacuum leaks (false air) to the intake tract on the engine.

If the CEL light is not on, it's unlikely that there are any "diagnostic codes" set in the computer for faults to begin troubleshooting the causation of this problem. There may be issues with underhood wiring connectors and/or grounds.

Diagnosing the problem will require a careful visual inspection and a scan tool to check out the computer sensors and IAC functioning. It's unlikely that the scope of the work will be within the skill range of an average DIY'er with a scanner, but if you have the skills, it shouldn't be a difficult problem to isolate and correct. Otherwise, take the car to a shop with the equipment and skills to deal with the problem.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:34 AM
 
Location: NW San Antonio
2,982 posts, read 9,832,376 times
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Normal idle, should be about 750 rpm, starting, on jeeps, from experience, has been about 1200 to 1300, on my inline six. If engine is dying, then you either have poor fuel distribution, or another would be fouled spark plugs that need to burn more before the engine syncs a little. Minor tune up could fix that. Less than $50 for parts.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:55 AM
 
Location: Long Island,NY
1,743 posts, read 1,041,107 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsprit View Post
this car's engine is entirely computer controlled.

The "fast idle" during start-up cycle should last about 2 minutes, maximum time, per federal emissions standards.

After that, the idle should come down to normal speeds without your assistance to keep the engine running normally.

There may be issues with the computer controls, engine sensors, or iac (idle air control valve) unit, along with vacuum leaks (false air) to the intake tract on the engine.

If the cel light is not on, it's unlikely that there are any "diagnostic codes" set in the computer for faults to begin troubleshooting the causation of this problem. There may be issues with underhood wiring connectors and/or grounds.

Diagnosing the problem will require a careful visual inspection and a scan tool to check out the computer sensors and iac functioning. It's unlikely that the scope of the work will be within the skill range of an average diy'er with a scanner, but if you have the skills, it shouldn't be a difficult problem to isolate and correct. Otherwise, take the car to a shop with the equipment and skills to deal with the problem.

this!
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:03 AM
 
22,653 posts, read 24,575,170 times
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IAC, that is the first thing that comes to mind.
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Old 01-16-2018, 12:20 PM
 
19,013 posts, read 27,562,983 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blktoptrvl View Post
Or it may be flooding due to injector leaks. Is there of huge cloud of black/gray when it finally starts?

This. You have to let more air in to adjust rich mix to more lean. As it warms up, petrol simply evaporates easier, so spark plugs stay dry and give good spark.
Clean injectors.
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