Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
My oil pan gasket is slightly leaking. More a cosmetic issue, not really losing big quantities of engine oil. Does the AT-205 Re-Seal work for such an application? - I would like to wait until my next oil change to replace the gasket. Thanks!
I've been working on my cars for 50 years. My friends in the car hobby and I have learned the hard way to avoid additives and sealants. They can often do more harm than good.
Fix what needs to be fixed.
Use what the factory says that the car was designed for.
I've been working on my cars for 50 years. My friends in the car hobby and I have learned the hard way to avoid additives and sealants. They can often do more harm than good.
Fix what needs to be fixed.
Use what the factory says that the car was designed for.
Thanks. Good idea. That would be the gasket plus some gasket maker.
I have had pretty good luck with leak-stop potions when it comes to most minor leaks. Rear-main seal is another story, nothing I have tried seems to work.
the only resealers I have ever found that work are ones for hydraulic applications for internal lip seals - like in pumps and trannys. Leaks to the outside stay leaks to the outside until you drop the pan.
Put down some kitty litter till you can replace the gasket (assuming it's the gasket and not the rear main seal).
If you have one of those stamped steel pans, you have to be very careful not to overtighten it as this can cause it to bulge up between the bolts. A thick gasket is needed because the stamped steel flange isn't very accurate, but then you get the overtightening leaks. The best solution is a cast and machined aluminum pan, but that may not be available.
Personally I've had the best success in sealing stamped steel pans and valve covers with the orange silicone sealer, applied in a thin layer to both sides of the gasket. Both the crankcase and pan flanges MUST be clean and dry. You also need to check the pan flange with a straightedge to make sure it's flat, and use appropriate tools to fix any noticeable out of flat conditions.
Pouring goop into your engine in the hope that it will stop a leak is a real good way to foul up your engine, especially if you've got some small oil galleries that are already somewhat sludged up.
My oil pan gasket is slightly leaking. More a cosmetic issue, not really losing big quantities of engine oil. Does the AT-205 Re-Seal work for such an application? - I would like to wait until my next oil change to replace the gasket. Thanks!
The advise given has leaned toward using the little if any of the gooey stuff and I agree. 110,000 ago my car had 150,000 miles and it started hammering down in the oil pan area gave me a serious warning. So I pulled the pan and found it full of sludge and the oil pickup was clogged. Cleaned it up upgraded the oil filter and started using better oil.
That said, you were asking about the pan gasket so here is what I did. While the pan was off I removed the old pan gasket and remembered it came off in one piece. Had the car since it was new so I know it was the original. Very little if anything holding it on. So when I put the new pan gasket on the pan I did not use any sealant of any kind. To hold it in place I used a couple of pieces of thread to secure the gasket to the pan via bolt holes. While the pan was loosely bolted in other holes I cut and removed the thread.
Then I tightened it all up, being it was flat uncomplicated one piece cork gasket with lots of room to work around the pan it worked out well. That's until about 3 months ago when I spotted oil on the driveway and the gasket was near having 110,000 on it. So I check out where the leak is coming from and yes it was the oil pan. Well being lazy I get under that pan and check those bolts for tightness, yep the were all loose as a goose the gasket shrunk. I tightened up and now the pan and driveway and clean again. My oil leak was just a reminder to me that I promised myself to pull the pan and do another in pan inspection for sludge after 100,000 miles which caused the pan gasket replacement on my car.
Stay tuned for an update with photos further debunking the Corolla Sludge Mystery posted in city-data Toyota section next oil change.
My oil pan gasket is slightly leaking. More a cosmetic issue, not really losing big quantities of engine oil. Does the AT-205 Re-Seal work for such an application? - I would like to wait until my next oil change to replace the gasket. Thanks!
I wouldn't off the top of my head recommend an oil additive for this situation. There are Permatex spray on solutions I would prefer.
At the end of the day mostly chain garages recommend oil pan gasket replacements when they are not really economically in the interest of the customer.
If you can DIY this, do it. If not you can buy many cases of conventional lube oil for what these guys would charge you to fix this.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
This worked for me.
