Starter broke, Masterlock and Gorrila Glue Rescued me. (running)

[M3 Mitch]

Usually used parts have a 30 day exchange only gaurantee. The starter you have in hand was rebuilt, right? Consider this idea - get the junkyard starter and put it on. My bet is it works fine for a long time. Keep your broken one, the only thing wrong with it is the mounting flange.

If you still have the car when the junkyard starter quits, you can transfer the mounting flange from the junkyard starter to the rest of your rebuilt one.

Keep in mind that Autozone will almost certainly charge you a core charge and won't accept your broken flanged starter as a core. You might as well ask, but usually a broken as opposed to worn part won't be accepted as a core.

You never said if the car is a stick or auto. If it's a stick and you live in reasonably open country with some hills such that push starting is not that hard, definitely go with the junkyard dog.

If it's an automatic, and/or you have to work outside with no garage, and/or you really have to depend on this car, you may be better off paying more for a rebuilt one.

A point, though - if you have a "real" import auto store, see if you can get a Bosch or Nippondenso, new or rebuilt. Some of the rebuilt parts from the big chain stores are not up to Bosch or Nippondenso standards.

The junkyard starter may indeed be as good or better.

Neither one will compensate you for labor, if you are doing the swap or if a shop does it.

I'll leave you with 2 of my favorite quotes from Clint:

"A man's got to know his limitations."

"Do you feel lucky, punk?"

In any case, don't forget that you need one more bolt, the one that Mr. Bodger left off.

I'm betting you put it back on in way less than the time it took you to worry it off.

If you are working with a very limited selection of tools, consider getting a more extensive set, maybe Craftsman - they are still pretty good.

Your McGuyver stunt tells me you have better mechanical sense than a lot of "pro" mechanics out there - the ones that are not really car guys, just sad sacks that needed a job and fell into wrenching.

[davidt1]

Dude, you are the best. The car is automatic. I don't even have any tool. Had to borrow a neighbor's today. I did have a set of Metrinch until it was stolen. I paid, if I remember correctly, about $60 for them at Costco years ago. They were the best tools I ever had. Now they are $200 at Amazon.

[Drilco]

best bet even though more exspensive is to get the autozone starter. the ears or tabs that hold the starter on are very important. as you know.even with welding it theres a chance it will break again.there is a lot of tourqe on the housing when the starter is engaged. replacement instructions can be found at autozones website. good luck. and that was an awesome job of getting the starter to work one more time .

[davidt1]

I can't believe I didn't make a note of it. There are two terminals on the solenoid. There is cable coming out of the battery and it goes to which one? Thanks once again.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg5/davidtr1/IMG_1213.jpg (broken link)

[Drilco]

im not 100 percent sure .but i believe it goes on the one on the left the one with the wacher on it.

[davidt1]

Originally Posted by Drilco

im not 100 percent sure .but i believe it goes on the one on the left the one with the wacher on it.

I am not sure either. Basically, there is a cable going from the battery + terminal to the + terminal on the solenoid. There is no marking on the solenoid. I don't know which is which. The length of the cable coming from the battery fits perfectly the one on the solenoid that is attached to the starter. I have to force it a bit if I want to put it on the solenoid terminal that is not attached to the starter.

Would I damage the starter/solenoid if I installed the cable on the wrong terminal? I haven't attached it yet because I am afraid to mess up. Thanks.

M3 Mitch, where are you?

[M3 Mitch]

Sorry, didn't look at the net over the weekend.

Using logic, the battery + cable would go to the nut *without* the wire going into the starter - the one on the left in your photo.

This is why you ought to buy at least a Chilton/Haynes/Clymer type shop manual.

Thinking about your situation, you *might* want to get an Allen-head type bolt for the one that's hard to get to, may be a little easier to install.

When you get done with this job, reward yourself with a decent tool set, see what's on sale at Sears. They typically have pretty good sets that go in a carrying case for around $100.

Take your ground terminal off your battery while you are doing this work, it should be the first thing you disconnect in this type of job, and should be the very last thing you hook back up.

Now would be a good time to put a set of those "anti-corrosion" felt washers under your battery terminals, and while I'm spending you broke pick up a battery teminal cleaning brush at the auto parts store, they are cheap, clean up the battery terminals and your cable ends.

[davidt1]

Will do. Rebuilt starter works. Thanks for all the suggestions and help.

[M3 Mitch]

So you are back up and running, then?

Keep in mind that all you need to fix the old starter is the mounting flange, you can find a junkyard starter and swap some parts around.

[davidt1]

Originally Posted by M3 Mitch

So you are back up and running, then?

Keep in mind that all you need to fix the old starter is the mounting flange, you can find a junkyard starter and swap some parts around.

Yes, I am up and running. Had to exchange the old starter for a rebuilt one at Autozone. Being a complete novice, I couldn't take a chance on a junkyard part.