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I back my 8' wide 5th wheel through a 12' gate and even that feels tight.
We used to take a 12 ft disk through a 10 ft gate. I can't remember how. It is just a matter of practice and confidence.
Once with a tow truck, I had to back around a 90-degree corner with a car hooked up and then after 100 ft, I hade to make another 90 degrees turn and then back fifty feet and then another 90 to back into the garage.
I was a parts counter guy and then got a tow truck job. A great bunch of guys at the Dealership and they were just testing me.
I measured again this morning. The posts are actually 8'4" wide. WTH?! Who builds such a narrow gate!?
Good news is that the fence was built with a gate that was originally 10' wide. So I don't need to replace much fencing, I might even be able to hang a gate from the old existing post. When I bought the house, a brand-new steel gate had been (shoddily) installed. I guess the old one must have been falling down and the owners decided to cheap-out and replace it with a smaller gate. Weird, because I would think it costs more to dig and pour the footing for an entirely new post than it would to buy a larger gate.
I measured again this morning. The posts are actually 8'4" wide. WTH?! Who builds such a narrow gate!?
Good news is that the fence was built with a gate that was originally 10' wide. So I don't need to replace much fencing, I might even be able to hang a gate from the old existing post. When I bought the house, a brand-new steel gate had been (shoddily) installed. I guess the old one must have been falling down and the owners decided to cheap-out and replace it with a smaller gate. Weird, because I would think it costs more to dig and pour the footing for an entirely new post than it would to buy a larger gate.
My long/steep dirt/gravel logging road driveway has a 10' gate. It's been there 30 years so the bolts & nuts on the hinge end are frozen. The gate is dragging so i put a 4" rubber spring loaded gate caster in black, on the end of gate to make it easier to open & close. $36.15 is too much. I bought it at Home Depot for less then that.
My parents did this with a 5th wheel after they got too old to use it for camping. They also built a "carport" over it so as to not worry about roof maintenance, which is a big issue with older RVs of all type. With all family being in other cities/states it was a great guest house, used several times a year. One tip is to not leave the waste tanks open to the sewer, wait until at least 2/3 full, or at least after being used a few days, then drain and flush. Otherwise the hose will build up hard deposits inside. Check the tires for age before moving it, they can blow out if too old and brittle.
Not just the hose but the bottom of the tank. Yuck trying to clean that. Yep, you can keep the grey tank open if you want but black tank closed until you are emptying. If you keep both closed until emptying then empty the black first then the grey to clean the hose out. Take it around the block every few months and run the generator periodically for a few minutes even though it is on house power.
Anybody use a hand-cranked trailer caddy? How about an electric one?
I've come full circle to seeing the benefits of a trailer (lower maintenece, registration, smaller) but I still have a parking problem. I need to pull the trailer in forward over about 40 feet of pretty flat, paved space, including passing through a gate with about 4" of clearance on a side. I cannot do this with a vehicle attached. I don't want to drop >$1,000 on a fancy caterpillar trailer caddy.
I've found online positive reviews of a $500 hand-cranked trailer caddy and some cheap $300 chinese junk with the same idea but including an electric motor that can be hooked to a lead-acid battery. Anybody ever used one to move a ~4,000# trailer a significant distance?
I haven't settled on a Class-C vs a Trailer. I'm just going to go with whatever shows up for sale and seems to be the best value/most suitable after the summer ends.
Anybody use a hand-cranked trailer caddy? How about an electric one?
I've come full circle to seeing the benefits of a trailer (lower maintenece, registration, smaller) but I still have a parking problem. I need to pull the trailer in forward over about 40 feet of pretty flat, paved space, including passing through a gate with about 4" of clearance on a side. I cannot do this with a vehicle attached. I don't want to drop >$1,000 on a fancy caterpillar trailer caddy.
I've found online positive reviews of a $500 hand-cranked trailer caddy and some cheap $300 chinese junk with the same idea but including an electric motor that can be hooked to a lead-acid battery. Anybody ever used one to move a ~4,000# trailer a significant distance?
I haven't settled on a Class-C vs a Trailer. I'm just going to go with whatever shows up for sale and seems to be the best value/most suitable after the summer ends.
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
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I'd go for the remote control tracked caterpillar like MH movers use.
It would be cool to have a huge crane that could place it where you want it... Including high up in a tree. Me neighbor has a monster crane. It is very fun and handy to have around the house. I think the boom is 70 or 80 ft tall (and can expand). It can lift over 100,000#. That should cover it. Insurance and inspection is a tad spendy.
My sister in law did this to add a third bedroom to her house.
We will not visit until we can stay in the house.
It's an eyesore.
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