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Old 05-20-2014, 07:53 AM
 
67 posts, read 108,675 times
Reputation: 166

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Having moved here from Minnesota where lawn sprinklers are rare, due to plenty of rainfall (often too much) I have limited knowledge of their mechanics. They worked perfectly last summer. I blew them out for winter, as directed by a neighbor. The problem I have now that I fired the system back up seems to be a pressure issue. When I turn the controls on to manually water, I have to physically turn off the exterior supply valve and turn it back on to get enough pressure to raise the sprinkler heads. This has to be done every time the controller switches zones as well.

Example- I turn on system. Zone 1 Heads barely dribble and don't raise up. I turn off water supply....then turn back on and the heads raise and work properly. Zone 1 times out, turns off, then system switches to zone 2 and the dribble begins again. I turn off supply....turn on...and zone 2 works perfectly. Then the problem repeats itself for zone 3 and 4.
Obviously I can't spend a summer doing this.
I removed the check valve out of the system thinking it may be the problem, but it didn't solve the issue.

I'm wondering if there is a pressure switch of some sort within my entire household system that may be the culprit? My entire life experience has always been with a private well and the system that goes with it and just don't have a mechanical grasp of any differences in this "city water" scheme.

P.S.- I'm frugal (cheap) and hope to diagnose and fix it myself before paying someone else. Ha
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:29 PM
 
Location: OH>IL>CO>CT
7,517 posts, read 13,624,634 times
Reputation: 11908
Some systems, in addition to a manual shut-off valve for the whole system for winter shutdown etc, have an electrical "main" valve. If you have one, perhaps it is malfunctioning when the controller switches zones. Also, if you have a anti-siphon vacuum breaker, have a look at it.

Also, a re-post to the House forum at //www.city-data.com/forum/house/ might turn up someone more expert.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:34 PM
 
1,690 posts, read 2,060,605 times
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Hmmm
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:25 PM
 
67 posts, read 108,675 times
Reputation: 166
Reed- When you say: anti-siphon vacuum breaker, are you referring to the brass unit with a seal on the top and bottom with a spring between the seals? If so, that is what I referred to as a check valve and have already removed it thinking it may be "hanging up". I think you're on the right track that there is another "main valve" of some sort that is malfunctioning. We have experienced intermittent pressure loss at times within the house lately. I'll have to investigate some more. Thanks for the reply. May have to break down and just get a professional in and git er dun!
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:10 PM
 
177 posts, read 314,992 times
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Yes, the vaccum breaker is the main component of a sprinkler system and keeps the water from going back into your house from the outside sprinkler lines (which may have dirt/debris in them).

I would also check each valve inside the control box (in the ground) since every year you usually have SOMETHING to fix on a sprinkler system!

Turn on each zone separately and listen to the valves, usually you can manually turn on each valve at the box location too. You may have a dead valve or ones that are not opening/closing correctly that is causing this issue.

Like I said every year you will be doing SOMETHING to a sprinkler system in the way of repairs.

The old joke about boats applies here: What are the two happiest days of a boat owners life?? The day you buy it and the day you SELL it!!
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Old 05-31-2014, 09:04 PM
 
Location: Falcon, Colorado, USA
43 posts, read 97,488 times
Reputation: 76
Somethings to check -
In the house - did you turn on the valve all the way? This should have been shut off when the blowout was done.
At the Back Flow (Check Valve) - make sure all the "bleeder" valves are closed. (small slotted circles) they should be perpendicular with the opening at the ends. Also at the lower end of the back flow is a thumbscrew that needs to be closed or it will leak just like the bleeders if left open.
Make sure that you have opened the valves all the way these are usually a handle that will only turn 90 degrees. if these are not all the way open low pressure will occur and when the system is off it will build up pressure then drop off again.
In the ground make sure at the end of the manifold the drain has been close off (if not the you will know b/c the box will fill with water. While there see if a valve was installed before the manifold starts to branch off. If so make sure this is open all the way as well.
If this did not fix your problem then you could have a "dirt" diaphragm - even the smallest grain of sand can cause them to malfunction. - this would be the best case scenario.
Next if could be a bad solenoid - but if the enter system acts the same way then this would not be the problem.
When the system comes on and the Zone is low/bubbling are the other zones off completely?
If other zones are still on (after 30 sec or so from being shut off) you could have a stuck valve/solenoid.
SHUT OFF WATER FIRST before trying below.
Stuck valves can be opened and cleaned if you feel moderately mechanically inclined. Just remember how things go back together (bust out the cell phone and video or take pictures as you are doing this)
If the Solenoid is bad you can check by removing is and swapping it with another zone and running the zone (just remember have solenoids in all valves before restarting. (Righty tighty, lefty loosy)
Last and the worst thing would be a break in the line.
First Shut off all running water in the house. (just don't have anything running dont not shut off the main) Then shut the valve off to the irrigation.
Now look at the water meter in the basement is the little dial spinning? If so you might have a leaking toilet or the icemaker is running. If it is not spinning, turn on the irrigation if should spin for less than a minute.
If it does not stop you have a leak. -Call a professional
If it does stop - so far so good. you now have water to the manifold in the ground.
Next Run a zone and watch how fast the meter spins - compare this to the others
If you have a "drip zone" this should be slower compare the zones and if any are much faster then there is a good chance you have a leak in that zone. But since you said more than one zone has issues I think one of the above steps could solve your problem.

Enough for now try this out and let us know what you find.

Jay

this might help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9reZ1LBes4k

Last edited by jaylind; 05-31-2014 at 09:05 PM.. Reason: update
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:17 PM
 
22 posts, read 34,312 times
Reputation: 26
Best advice you'll ever get - call one of the companies in town that does sprinklers in about March. Make an appointment for them to come out and get your system running for the year. They'll come out, turn on the system, fix any heads that that got destroyed over the winter (and yes, sometimes those heads simply implode). They'll make sure all your parts are working as they're supposed to. Yup, it'll cost ya $100 to $150 bucks to have them do it, but it'll save you a lot of frustration!

Robinson's is awesome. And if you call early in the year, they aren't really busy yet and they can schedule you an appointment.
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:25 PM
 
26,212 posts, read 49,044,521 times
Reputation: 31781
Typically we pay $40 for sprinkler activation and adjustment of the spray patterns, usually late April up here on the far north end of town. Paying attention to weather forecasts in late April is key to getting them turned on as soon as possible but without incurring a freeze up. If sprinkler heads or other parts are broken the price goes up accordingly.

In the fall we typically pay $35 for having the system blown out for the winter, usually early October. Then we use the hose-end sprinkler about once a month during the winter, on a mild day, unless there's plenty of snow.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:24 PM
 
22 posts, read 34,312 times
Reputation: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dosvi View Post
Best advice you'll ever get - call one of the companies in town that does sprinklers in about March. Make an appointment for them to come out and get your system running for the year. They'll come out, turn on the system, fix any heads that that got destroyed over the winter (and yes, sometimes those heads simply implode). They'll make sure all your parts are working as they're supposed to. Yup, it'll cost ya $100 to $150 bucks to have them do it, but it'll save you a lot of frustration!

Robinson's is awesome. And if you call early in the year, they aren't really busy yet and they can schedule you an appointment.
I should mention that we get aerated and sometimes over seeded or fertilized when we turn the sprinklers on. That accounts for the extra $$'s.
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