Router wi-fi amplifier (connect, system, control, signal)

[Tantalust]

I bought a Jetpack 8800L router. Works okay so far

The main Verizon tower is very close, doesn't need amplifying, it's within about half mile.

I'll have an geenie or Reolink wi-fi cameras outside.
I want an amplifier/antenna on the Jetpack for my wi-fi cameras, not for the Verizon tower.

What should I be looking for?

I guess Google Mesh would work but there's nowhere to "plug it in".

[akrausz]

Maybe something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...JDTW03NK&psc=1

[Tantalust]

Thanks, that's the type I probably want.

[Paul_G]

Suggestions (based on having dealt with customers that added new WiFi devices that 'broke' their system):
- On a WiFi extender, set it up so that the SSID (WiFi network name) matches the Verizon unit settings exactly. This goes for the password settings as well.
- You also want to make sure that the extender is using the same network settings (subnet) as the Verizon unit. If the Verizon unit is set to be 192.168.1.1 (as indicated in the manual - link noted below), then the extender *should* be in the 192.168.1.xxx range also (where xxx is between 2 and 254, but NOT 1). There should also be another set of numbers (subnet mask) that are probably 255.255.255.0 - the extender's numbers should match the Verizon unit numbers. If devices have the same subnet (the 192.168.1.xxx numbers), it can cause a lot of issues within a network.
- Generally, for best results, the band being used (2.4 and / or 5 GHz) should be the same between devices. The Verizon unit indicates that it has both, while the extender seems the be 2.4 only. Various devices will *attempt* to connect to the 'stronger' signal which can result in it switching between the bands as you move around. With a single band in use, the connection should remain more stable. Note: 5 GHz signals can connect at higher speeds, but have a shorter range than 2.4 GHz does. In this case, turning the 5 GHz off for the Verizon unit may prove beneficial.
- The items mentioned above (about the SSID, passwords and subnet numbers) have to do with your ability to get everything connected to the same network. If everything doesn't match up, you could have (for example) a wireless printer connected to the Verizon unit at 192.168.1.4, while a laptop connected to an extender is getting an address of 10.0.0.6 (Apple standard, if I recall). If you were to try to print, your laptop wouldn't see the printer which is on the other subnet. This would be the same for using apps to control TVs, Sonos streaming units, etc. Everything needs to be on the same network.

There is a network scanner app called Fing - believe it is available for both Android and Apple. When you are connected to your wireless network, it allows you to see what is connected to the network and can be vary helpful in seeing if anything is missing that needs be connected / reconfigured to connect.

User manual for the Verizon Jetpack 8800L here: https://ss7.vzw.com/is/content/Veriz...i-8800l-um.pdf

Hopefully this may help you avoid / identify any issues you might encounter with your project.

[Tantalust]

^ That gets printed out and taped on the unit when I get it. Thank-you.

[Paul_G]

You're very welcome. Good luck.

[Peregrine]

That's a Jetpack...I would check with Verizon to make sure it will work with an extender before spending any money. It should, but I would confirm.