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Old 01-20-2015, 03:32 PM
 
Location: Arizona
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I never thought in a million years I'd be interested in living in Iowa, but after some brief research, I must say I'm intrigued! I do have a lot of questions though.

We currently live in the Phoenix metro area (hate it), which is pretty big. I like that I can run all my errands and take my kids to their activities within 10 minutes of my house. How big/compact is Des Moines and is this possible there?

What is there to do there? Museums, zoos, parks?? My daughter is very into gymnastics and I would like my sons in some type of athletic activity when they are old enough as well. Are there many options?

The schools seem good overall, especially when compared to here. Any that stand out or are recommended? Charter schools might be preferred over public.

Seems like it is a good place for jobs. My husband is a purchasing agent, but is very trainable and adaptable and open to just about anything. We are also considering opening our own business. Is Des Moines favorable for that?

Dog friendly? We have a pit bull and pit mix that we will not rehome. I didn't find any breed bans or legislation. Is this accurate?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-20-2015, 04:19 PM
 
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Compared to Phoenix, Des Moines has zero traffic and everything is within an easy drive. You won't have Circle K, but you will have QT's! No Ross stores, but you have Gordmans. No Filiberto's, but there is Taco Johns. (a couple of things I miss about DM) Living within a short drive of whatever you need is very easy.

Des Moines is not nearly as dog friendly as Phoenix. Breed restrictions are always an issue and rentals are not as pet friendly as Phoenix. That isn't to say you won't find a place, it just might be harder than PHX.

One thing you didn't question was the weather, and there is a vast difference between the 2 cities in that department!
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Old 01-20-2015, 06:25 PM
 
Location: Des Moines Metro
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OP, you really ought to visit for a long weekend when we get back to winter, unless you've grown up in the Midwest and have driven to and from work during our winters. Right now it's in the 40s because it's time for the January thaw, but in a week or two we'll be back to 20s with a snow cover.

I'm not trying to discourage you because there's a lot to like about Des Moines: it's family friendly, and I'm sure your children would find plenty of activities.

But don't underestimate the winter. That's been the deal breaker for a lot of families I've met who've transferred from warmer areas and only went skiing in CO a few times as their exposure to winter.

We get icy roads, snow, wind, and white-out conditions at times. Couple that with some very cold temps, like -5 actual and then -20 chill factors because of the wind. There will be a few days where you shouldn't leave the house and a few where you will have to leave and wish you didn't!

Then again, if you dress for it and love cold or fall in love with an outdoor sport, suddenly the icy commutes or shoveling just become part of the daily routine. I have ice cleats that fit on my hiking boots and go for walks most days because I like the outdoors and want to get in shape for biking season.

I also happen to like winter, as long at the temps are in the 20s and above. I'm not into the single digits and below, either. Brrrrr!
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:12 PM
 
Location: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElleTea View Post
Compared to Phoenix, Des Moines has zero traffic and everything is within an easy drive. You won't have Circle K, but you will have QT's! No Ross stores, but you have Gordmans. No Filiberto's, but there is Taco Johns. (a couple of things I miss about DM) Living within a short drive of whatever you need is very easy.

Des Moines is not nearly as dog friendly as Phoenix. Breed restrictions are always an issue and rentals are not as pet friendly as Phoenix. That isn't to say you won't find a place, it just might be harder than PHX.

One thing you didn't question was the weather, and there is a vast difference between the 2 cities in that department!
We are used to the obstacles pit bulls come with and we aren't the type of people who take their dogs everywhere (neighborhood walks, occasionally the park), we just want to be sure our dogs will be safe and not be confiscated and murdered due to ridiculous laws.

I didn't question the weather because I know where Iowa is on the map and understand north equals long, cold winters ha ha. I did mean to ask if it is still sunny during the winter. We were originally wanting to move to Oregon, but I have generalized anxiety and the months and months of gloom might be a problem for me. It doesn't have to be bright sun every day, it just needs to make an appearance now and then.

I hate traffic and idiotic drivers (no one in this area knows how to drive), so that will be nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meemur View Post
OP, you really ought to visit for a long weekend when we get back to winter, unless you've grown up in the Midwest and have driven to and from work during our winters. Right now it's in the 40s because it's time for the January thaw, but in a week or two we'll be back to 20s with a snow cover.

I'm not trying to discourage you because there's a lot to like about Des Moines: it's family friendly, and I'm sure your children would find plenty of activities.

But don't underestimate the winter. That's been the deal breaker for a lot of families I've met who've transferred from warmer areas and only went skiing in CO a few times as their exposure to winter.

We get icy roads, snow, wind, and white-out conditions at times. Couple that with some very cold temps, like -5 actual and then -20 chill factors because of the wind. There will be a few days where you shouldn't leave the house and a few where you will have to leave and wish you didn't!

Then again, if you dress for it and love cold or fall in love with an outdoor sport, suddenly the icy commutes or shoveling just become part of the daily routine. I have ice cleats that fit on my hiking boots and go for walks most days because I like the outdoors and want to get in shape for biking season.

I also happen to like winter, as long at the temps are in the 20s and above. I'm not into the single digits and below, either. Brrrrr!
I'll be honest I am not a cold weather person, but we want to live in a liberal state/city/area and liberal means north. No place is perfect and good schools and like-minded people are higher on our list than weather. We've had a rough time with friends in this ultra conservative area and want our new city to be more open to us.

How long is winter? The summers here are unbearable. It's too hot to go outside from late April through mid October and I just hate being trapped indoors, especially when it LOOKS so nice outside. It can be 110+ for several days in a row here and not even drop below 100 overnight. It's draining and we are so tired of it. I actually am also very tired of wearing the same clothes year round lol. There are no seasons here, which I miss (grew up in North central Texas). It doesn't FEEL like the holidays here and aside from temperature, there is little change in the weather here from season to season. So boring!

I have been looking all over the country for a place for us to live. It's been very difficult. Unfortunately we are not in the position to visit wherever we choose beforehand. Money is tight and we are trying to fix up our house so we CAN move. We will have to go based on significant research, instinct and faith!
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:36 PM
 
Location: Minneapolis
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First off, yes it is sunny in the winter.

Everything in Des Moines is 10 minutes away or less. It's so easy to get around.

There are not many museums, unfortunately. The science center and history center are okay and the at museum is quite good, but otherwise there isn't much. The capitol building is always worth a visit.

Chow's Gymnastics is located in Des Moines and they have trained more than one Olympic medalist. There are others as well of course, and plenty of local kids sports programs.

Every single school district in the area is good. If you get your kids in the Des Moines district, they will have the option to go to Central Academy, a magnet school downtown, for part or all of there school day starting in 7th grade. Central has the best academics in Iowa (some of the best in the Midwest) and also offers a bunch of career/technical classes and an IB program, and the best part IMO is that it isn't much less diverse than the regular schools in the city district. Anyone from any district can go to Central, but it's much easier for Des Moines kids.

Des Moines is consistently ranked one of the best cities in the country for small business.

Having read your other thread in the main forum, I would still say Minneapolis is a better fit for what you're looking for, but Des Moines is a GREAT and very very underrated city too.
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Old 01-21-2015, 09:06 AM
 
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If you are not a cold weather person, I would not recommend Iowa. You might be better suited in a place like Portland or the Carolinas where it is cooler than AZ, but not as extreme as Iowa.

Also, Iowa is FAR from liberal. I would call it pretty conservative, actually. But I am curious as to what issues you have with friends not wanting to be friends if you are liberal. For me it has never been an issue. My friends and I don't discuss politics much and if we disagree, well, we just disagree and move on. I have not found people in Phoenix to be any different than people in Des Moines. Phoenix people, if anything, are more laid back and "live and let live." Especially if you get to a small town in Iowa, where they often like you to fit a certain mold of married/kids/church on Sunday.

Another thing on weather, if April in Phoenix is too hot for you when it is generally in the upper 80s/low 90s and low humidity (many consider those temps very pleasant in the dry air) then July in Des Moines with high temps and very high humidity/dew point will kill you. People in Phoenix think 30% humidity is miserable during monsoon season, but that is a pretty dry day in Iowa.

Winters can be LONG and cold. Brutally cold. The sun does shine in Des Moines in winter...but not every day. There may be stretches of many days in a row of no sun. And when it does shine it does little to warm things up. It can be sunny and clear, but still be only 5 degrees out. And the wind! In Phoenix it is rarely windy. In Des Moines it feels like it is windy all the time. At 5 degrees, that wind goes right through you.

If you are used to pretty constant weather like Phoenix has, Iowa's weather is the opposite. Quite extreme. It can be near 80 and sunny one day and literally snow the next.

Weather aside, I think Des Moines is a great city. It's a good size to get around (not QUITE 10 minutes to everything, but within 20-25 easy), lots of great restaurants and shopping, easy traffic, great events. I am told the schools are good (no kids here so I can't say 100%).
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:32 PM
 
Location: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steel03 View Post
First off, yes it is sunny in the winter.

Everything in Des Moines is 10 minutes away or less. It's so easy to get around.

There are not many museums, unfortunately. The science center and history center are okay and the at museum is quite good, but otherwise there isn't much. The capitol building is always worth a visit.

Chow's Gymnastics is located in Des Moines and they have trained more than one Olympic medalist. There are others as well of course, and plenty of local kids sports programs.

Every single school district in the area is good. If you get your kids in the Des Moines district, they will have the option to go to Central Academy, a magnet school downtown, for part or all of there school day starting in 7th grade. Central has the best academics in Iowa (some of the best in the Midwest) and also offers a bunch of career/technical classes and an IB program, and the best part IMO is that it isn't much less diverse than the regular schools in the city district. Anyone from any district can go to Central, but it's much easier for Des Moines kids.

Des Moines is consistently ranked one of the best cities in the country for small business.

Having read your other thread in the main forum, I would still say Minneapolis is a better fit for what you're looking for, but Des Moines is a GREAT and very very underrated city too.
Thank you for your response! The schools there sound amazing. Just curious why you think Minneapolis might be better for me?

Are there festivals, family activities and things held during the warmer seasons?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ElleTea View Post
If you are not a cold weather person, I would not recommend Iowa. You might be better suited in a place like Portland or the Carolinas where it is cooler than AZ, but not as extreme as Iowa.

Also, Iowa is FAR from liberal. I would call it pretty conservative, actually. But I am curious as to what issues you have with friends not wanting to be friends if you are liberal. For me it has never been an issue. My friends and I don't discuss politics much and if we disagree, well, we just disagree and move on. I have not found people in Phoenix to be any different than people in Des Moines. Phoenix people, if anything, are more laid back and "live and let live." Especially if you get to a small town in Iowa, where they often like you to fit a certain mold of married/kids/church on Sunday.

Another thing on weather, if April in Phoenix is too hot for you when it is generally in the upper 80s/low 90s and low humidity (many consider those temps very pleasant in the dry air) then July in Des Moines with high temps and very high humidity/dew point will kill you. People in Phoenix think 30% humidity is miserable during monsoon season, but that is a pretty dry day in Iowa.

Winters can be LONG and cold. Brutally cold. The sun does shine in Des Moines in winter...but not every day. There may be stretches of many days in a row of no sun. And when it does shine it does little to warm things up. It can be sunny and clear, but still be only 5 degrees out. And the wind! In Phoenix it is rarely windy. In Des Moines it feels like it is windy all the time. At 5 degrees, that wind goes right through you.

If you are used to pretty constant weather like Phoenix has, Iowa's weather is the opposite. Quite extreme. It can be near 80 and sunny one day and literally snow the next.

Weather aside, I think Des Moines is a great city. It's a good size to get around (not QUITE 10 minutes to everything, but within 20-25 easy), lots of great restaurants and shopping, easy traffic, great events. I am told the schools are good (no kids here so I can't say 100%).
Actually, in my research, Iowa appears to be split almost evenly with the west side of the state being conservative and the east side liberal. Yes, the governor and a few representatives are republican, but the attorney general is democrat and Iowa voted for Obama last election. Iowa isn't as liberal as say Massachusetts or New York, but it's definitely not as conservative as Texas or Arizona. I don't mind conservatives as friends. I am not looking to have politically based friendship or to even discuss hot topic issues, but I had a bad experience where my group of conservative friends abandoned me when they found out I am liberal and I've had a rough time finding new friends. It was a hard thing to deal with and I don't want to do it again, so being in a blue or just more balanced area is important. We wanted to move before that happened, it just opened our eyes to some things.

The weather....

Again to be in a more liberal place we are going to have to move north. We have accepted this and are ready for the change. Portland was our original plan, but aside from the high cost of living, I have generalized anxiety and several months of gloom, without sun would probably be a bad idea for me. It doesn't have to warm up, I just need the sun out and shining vitanin D down on me every few days or so. April here is not entirely miserable, but it is that start of misery. And 85 degrees outside with wind, some clouds or shade is totally different than dead air and a clear sky with the sun constantly beating down on you. We are also not bothered by humidity. People complain about it here all the time and I don't even notice it ha ha. It will probably be noticeable there, but I imagine tolerable for us.

Thanks for all the replies so far. We are still researching, but like what Iowa has to offer so far!
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:20 PM
 
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I'm just going off 40+ years of living in the state and my experience of liberal vs. not liberal, and I would say I would never consider Iowa to be liberal. Not by any stretch of that definition. It may appear that way in research, but not from my life experience there (most of it was in eastern Iowa, the supposed liberal side). I honestly find people in Arizona to be much more tolerant in general.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:57 PM
 
Location: Des Moines Metro
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I'm a conservative, evangelical Christian . . . I've had zero problems fitting in. My sense is that it's really not that liberal. There are a lot of "middle of the road" people who are strongly live and let live, provided you don't provoke them, but compared to places like Iowa City, Madison, Ann Arbor . . . not overly liberal.

Depending on how important that is to you, Iowa City might be the better fit.

In any case, I would not move here without visiting for at least a long weekend.

I understand about money being an issue, but I've known a number of transfers both here and in Ohio (where I lived last) who thought they could "adjust to anything" and who were extremely miserable within six weeks or so.

It's one thing to do a move "sight unseen" when there is similar culture and weather: I would move anywhere in the Midwest next week if transferred because I grew up here and can deal with ice and snow / high summer humidity in Chicago or Madison. But I wouldn't move to NM without spending at least a week there.

Just my humble warning . . . I like people to be happy!
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Old 01-22-2015, 12:20 PM
 
Location: Minneapolis
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Originally Posted by Pennies4Penny View Post
Thank you for your response! The schools there sound amazing. Just curious why you think Minneapolis might be better for me?
Well first things first, I don't know why others in this thread are being so negative and discouraging about Iowa... It's a pretty progressive, blue-leaning swing state that is likely to become even more blue-leaning in the coming years. Compared to surrounding states, it is more liberal than Missouri, Nebraska, South Dakota, and Illinois outside of Chicago, less liberal than most of Minnesota, and about as liberal as Wisconsin outside of Madison.

For you, my inclination is Minnesota over Iowa because Minneapolis is a much more established city than Des Moines (Des Moines is growing quickly but it will be many decades before it looks the way Minneapolis looks today) and because Minnesota in general is much more like the Pacific Northwest than Iowa is, which is something you talked about being appealing to you in your thread on the main forum. If you like the idea of the Pacific Northwest, but you are hesitant about the clouds and rain, Minneapolis is absolutely the city to look into.

Quote:
Are there festivals, family activities and things held during the warmer seasons?
Not sure if you're asking about Des Moines or Minneapolis, so I'll talk about both.

Des Moines has a good resource for festivals here. The ones that come to mind immediately as especially fun and cool are the Arts Festival, the World Food Festival, and 80/35 Music Festival. Of course there's also the Iowa State Fair, although I have to say the Minnesota State Fair is bigger and better. The best thing hands down in Des Moines is the Downtown Farmers' Market, held every Saturday from May through October.

Minneapolis has festivals and things going on all year round, not just in the warmer months. In summer, there's the State Fair, the Fringe Festival (biggest independent theatre festival in the US), and tons of arts festivals and farmers' markets. In the winter the big two are the Holidazzle/Holiday Market, which just got majorly revamped this year, and the St. Paul Winter Carnival (starts today!). Then there are lots of local events and things going on all the time. There's a really cool kind of winter arts festival that's held in ice fishing huts on a frozen lake. Last week we just had the Lake Harriet Winter Kite Festival and the US Pond Hockey Championships on Lake Nokomis. This weekend St. Paul is hosting the second event in the ice cross downhill world championships.
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