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First time dog owner. It's a 10 week old yorkie. We can't get her to go on pad or outside. I don't know what to do to get the puppy on track. How do I get her to start going to the door when she needs to go? I don't want pads in the house. I have left some trying to see if that helps. But she doesn't know to go on them. I've left her scent on some to help her. But she still will go in the house. What can I do to get her going outside? I'm clueless on how to train her. Thanks
Crate. Get a crate. Put her in there to sleep, after she's eaten, been outside to piddle, and play.
Put her in the crate. Put a little puppy bed in there, some toys. Give her an hour or two to sleep. When she wakes up, immediately take her outside. She will probably piddle, tell her she is just the most wonderful puppy ever, and then bring her in. Most dogs will not piddle in their crate, they like to stay clean.
After she eats a meal, take her outside. You may need to leave her in the crate more than you think in order for her to learn. She will get to where she will whine when she needs to go outside. She will learn, but you have to be diligent to take her outside a lot.
Edited to say don't ever yell at her or rub her nose in it if she messes up. Its your fault that she does that, not hers.
Take her outside to the same spot several times a day and stay with her until she goes. Then praise her to high heaven and give her a cookie. Repeat, then repeat again. Go with her. Don't just throw her outside.
Take her outside on a leash and stand in one spot..no playing, no talking, no nothing other than "go potty". If she goes, praise her. If she doesn't, she goes right back into the crate. When she cries in the crate, you take her back outside and repeat the process.
Frequent trips outside to maximize opportunities for success and therefore rewards. Whatever you think is frequent, make it even more often at first.
Accompany dog outside each time. Reward for potties immediately, not once back inside. * Remember: rewards are defined by the dog, not what the human thinks is rewarding. Make sure you aren't bringing the dog directly inside after successful potties. We don't want to teach him that potties equal the end of outdoor time.
Constant supervision so that all accidents can be caught and interrupted. The only time you can address an accident is when it is in progress. How you interrupt the accident is very important. If your interruption is intimidating or frightening you will end up with a "sneaky" dog who won't potty in front of people. Your interruption must convey "woops! wrong spot buddy - let's get you to the proper potty place asap" - not "no no bad dog". When he's caught in the act, interrupt by briskly moving toward him saying "no no no no no" in a pleasant but urgent HIGH PITCHED tone then RUSH him outside to finish. If he finishes outside, big rewards, praise, and party. If he doesn't finish outside back inside and watch him like a hawk.
Confine to a safe zone when direct supervision can not be provided. Safe zone means an area in which he is unlikely to eliminate. During times when you'll be briefly distracted consider tethering the dog to you/keeping him on leash to make sure you eliminate the possibility for accidents to go unnoticed.
The worst thing that can happen: accident goes unnoticed. It is it's own reward i.e. "relieving" so he is in effect being rewarded for going in the house.
Clean all accidents thoroughly with a specially formulated enzymatic cleaner such as Nature's Miracle or Simple Solution, NOT a regular household cleaner.
Never ever show a dog his accident and then punish him for it. After the fact, the dog will NOT make the connection that you are punishing him for pooping in the house. All he'll learn is that you are a highly unstable psycho that lashes out at him unpredictably and for some weird reason involves poop in these meltdowns. If you want to punish someone for accidents, punish the person who was supposed to be watching the dog when the accident happened.
Stick to a consistent feeding schedule and learn how soon after eating your pup tends to "go".
Be mindful of water intake and let out accordingly.
Learn your pup's unique "need to potty" signals and respond accordingly. Potty signals can include sniffing, circling, pacing, staring, vocalizations, and taking a break in play. Always bring pup outside right away after he wakes up in the morning or from a nap.
We want your dog's experience to be: "Every time I go to potty in the house I get interrupted. Every time I potty outside, I get treats, praise, play and petting." He'll choose to potty outside.
Now here's a potty training plan for people who need / want to use the crate more often:
Here is a plan for teaching your dog to love the crate:
About Crates:
· Dogs are ‘denning’ animals and most naturally enjoy being in den / cave-like environments (many dogs will curl up under or behind furniture in tight spaces).
· The crate should become a cozy, pleasant den in which your dog can relax. (This means the temperature and bedding must be comfortable).
· The crate should NEVER be used as a punishment or “time-out” area. The crate should not be overused.
· The crate should be located in a main/used area of the house, but out of the way.
· Some dogs prefer a more ‘open’ crate, such as a wire crate not covered with any blankets, while others prefer a more enclosed feeling, such as a plastic or canvas crate, or a wire crate with blankets used as ‘curtains’.
PHASE 1:
· During this training phase, tie the crate door OPEN so that it will not close behind the dog by accident and startle her.
· Place treats, toys, bones, and chews at the back of the crate while the dog is loose in the house and let her discover these on her own.
· Optional: Praise in a soothing tone when the dog enters the crate to explore.
PHASE 2:
· Guide the dog into the crate as you cheerfully say “Go in your crate” (this will become your permanent command) Lure her with a tasty treat to coax her inside and praise for any movement in the right direction.
· Once she is inside, gently close door, calmly PRAISE, and slip additional treats through vent hole to reward.
· Leave dog in the crate for 5-10 seconds, then open the door and allow her to exit if she wishes.
· GRADUALLY increase supervised time in crate using the above method – We want to convince the dog that she will never be abandoned in the crate and that she will always be let out.
· Once the dog is responding to this training, put her in her crate with a stuffed kong or other long lasting, edible chew and leave for very short periods.
· Gradually increase time dog is left in the crate while you are away.
REMEMBER
· Do not reward barking, whining and fussing by letting the dog out when she is doing so. Wait for quiet (or elicit quiet by making a kissy or clucky noise), then let her out.
· Always praise the dog for going into her crate.
· Always provide the dog with a safe, irresistible chew item when she is in her crate.
· It is helpful to go back to Phase 1 occasionally to ensure the positive association with the crate continues.
· Some owners may wish to feed meals in the crate as an additional means to build a positive association.
When used properly. One thing i have not seen mentioned here is to make sure the crate is the right size for your dog. It should only be large enough for your dog to turn around in comfortably. If the crate is too large the dog will go in the crate despite your best efforts and then you have a whole new set of problems. Don't leave in the crate longer than the dog could possibly hold it. If it is a small dog, take the dog out often they have small bladders and need to go more often than larger dogs. i hope this helps someone.
Frequent trips outside to maximize opportunities for success and therefore rewards. Whatever you think is frequent, make it even more often at first.
Accompany dog outside each time. Reward for potties immediately, not once back inside. * Remember: rewards are defined by the dog, not what the human thinks is rewarding. Make sure you aren't bringing the dog directly inside after successful potties. We don't want to teach him that potties equal the end of outdoor time.
Constant supervision so that all accidents can be caught and interrupted. The only time you can address an accident is when it is in progress. How you interrupt the accident is very important. If your interruption is intimidating or frightening you will end up with a "sneaky" dog who won't potty in front of people. Your interruption must convey "woops! wrong spot buddy - let's get you to the proper potty place asap" - not "no no bad dog". When he's caught in the act, interrupt by briskly moving toward him saying "no no no no no" in a pleasant but urgent HIGH PITCHED tone then RUSH him outside to finish. If he finishes outside, big rewards, praise, and party. If he doesn't finish outside back inside and watch him like a hawk.
Confine to a safe zone when direct supervision can not be provided. Safe zone means an area in which he is unlikely to eliminate. During times when you'll be briefly distracted consider tethering the dog to you/keeping him on leash to make sure you eliminate the possibility for accidents to go unnoticed.
The worst thing that can happen: accident goes unnoticed. It is it's own reward i.e. "relieving" so he is in effect being rewarded for going in the house.
Clean all accidents thoroughly with a specially formulated enzymatic cleaner such as Nature's Miracle or Simple Solution, NOT a regular household cleaner.
Never ever show a dog his accident and then punish him for it. After the fact, the dog will NOT make the connection that you are punishing him for pooping in the house. All he'll learn is that you are a highly unstable psycho that lashes out at him unpredictably and for some weird reason involves poop in these meltdowns. If you want to punish someone for accidents, punish the person who was supposed to be watching the dog when the accident happened.
Stick to a consistent feeding schedule and learn how soon after eating your pup tends to "go".
Be mindful of water intake and let out accordingly.
Learn your pup's unique "need to potty" signals and respond accordingly. Potty signals can include sniffing, circling, pacing, staring, vocalizations, and taking a break in play. Always bring pup outside right away after he wakes up in the morning or from a nap.
We want your dog's experience to be: "Every time I go to potty in the house I get interrupted. Every time I potty outside, I get treats, praise, play and petting." He'll choose to potty outside.
Now here's a potty training plan for people who need / want to use the crate more often:
Here is a plan for teaching your dog to love the crate:
About Crates:
· Dogs are ‘denning’ animals and most naturally enjoy being in den / cave-like environments (many dogs will curl up under or behind furniture in tight spaces).
· The crate should become a cozy, pleasant den in which your dog can relax. (This means the temperature and bedding must be comfortable).
· The crate should NEVER be used as a punishment or “time-out” area. The crate should not be overused.
· The crate should be located in a main/used area of the house, but out of the way.
· Some dogs prefer a more ‘open’ crate, such as a wire crate not covered with any blankets, while others prefer a more enclosed feeling, such as a plastic or canvas crate, or a wire crate with blankets used as ‘curtains’.
PHASE 1:
· During this training phase, tie the crate door OPEN so that it will not close behind the dog by accident and startle her.
· Place treats, toys, bones, and chews at the back of the crate while the dog is loose in the house and let her discover these on her own.
· Optional: Praise in a soothing tone when the dog enters the crate to explore.
PHASE 2:
· Guide the dog into the crate as you cheerfully say “Go in your crate” (this will become your permanent command) Lure her with a tasty treat to coax her inside and praise for any movement in the right direction.
· Once she is inside, gently close door, calmly PRAISE, and slip additional treats through vent hole to reward.
· Leave dog in the crate for 5-10 seconds, then open the door and allow her to exit if she wishes.
· GRADUALLY increase supervised time in crate using the above method – We want to convince the dog that she will never be abandoned in the crate and that she will always be let out.
· Once the dog is responding to this training, put her in her crate with a stuffed kong or other long lasting, edible chew and leave for very short periods.
· Gradually increase time dog is left in the crate while you are away.
REMEMBER
· Do not reward barking, whining and fussing by letting the dog out when she is doing so. Wait for quiet (or elicit quiet by making a kissy or clucky noise), then let her out.
· Always praise the dog for going into her crate.
· Always provide the dog with a safe, irresistible chew item when she is in her crate.
· It is helpful to go back to Phase 1 occasionally to ensure the positive association with the crate continues.
· Some owners may wish to feed meals in the crate as an additional means to build a positive association.
This ^ and you can also search ViralMD who also has a good system for potty training.
OP keep in mind your dog is only 10 weeks old and will not have full control of their bladder until they are 4-6 months old - don't give up and if you need to find someone to help out during the day if you are gone more than 4 hours at a time. You'll have to have a lot of patience so be prepared for a long run. I'd also suggest puppy classes once your dog is fully vaccinated, training your dog will help you bond and will help with potty training as your dog learns to learn. Also, keep in mind your dog breed is known for difficult potty training so it might take you longer, also, there is nothing wrong with training to a potty pad too for a toy breed, I have several friends with Yorkies and their dogs do both.
First time dog owner. It's a 10 week old yorkie. We can't get her to go on pad or outside. I don't know what to do to get the puppy on track. How do I get her to start going to the door when she needs to go? I don't want pads in the house. I have left some trying to see if that helps. But she doesn't know to go on them. I've left her scent on some to help her. But she still will go in the house. What can I do to get her going outside? I'm clueless on how to train her. Thanks
She is a puppy and puppies are like babies, all they do, is eat, drink and sleep...and poo
So, keep her in a small crate at night....Take her out to go a lot and I mean a lot....go to the pet store and buy some urine. I don't remember what it's called, but it's a bottle of stuff that you put on the ground where you want her to go. When she does finally go, do not clean it up, let it lay there so she knows to go again, in the same spot, then clean it up....do Outdoor potty first, don't worry about her going to to door to let you know....but when you get going with this, then start worrying about the rest of the stuff....right now the object is to get her trained to go outside....and it takes a while, until they are 6 - 9 months...
If you have other dogs, it is easier. Do not let her out all by herself, put a leash on her, otherwise she will go out and get preoccupied with other smells and noises....so, as soon as she eats or drinks take her out to go...do not walk her...stay there with her until she goes and then praise her the moment she is done, and give her a treat....only one treat....but be quick with the praise, otherwise she won't connect it....
and then take her out before you go to bed, don't expect much at first, it takes a while and a whole lot of patience and repitition...so, work on it...if you let her go and she keeps going in the house you will never train her.
Having a puppy is a huge responsibility and a well trained dog takes a whole lot of work. Sign yourself up for a puppy kindergarden class and then continue the training at home. Puppy kindergarden classes helps to teach you the "how to's" Dogs do not fail b/c they are bad dogs, or hard to train dogs, they fail b/c their owners do not know the basics....and keep up the training at home or are to lazy to get up and take them out, to keep after them....and work with them...if you do, you'll have an amzing pet and family member, that is rewarding....but start training now...so the dog learns to concentrate on your needs and wants...and what it is supposed to do. Then take your dog to the grocery store and stand in front of the store with the dog on a leash and allow it to socialize with people, dogs, and cats....but puppy kindergarden class is an essential.
All of the above about training is very good. but no one has mentioned puppy kindergarden....so, remember, huge responsiblity...by the time the dog is 9 - 12 months old her behavior will then be pretty much in check. Females mature much quicker then males.
So good luck, the more work you put into her the more you will get out of her, and remember a puppies attention span is pretty limited so long work outs will not do. You will learn all that at puppy kindergarden.
I don't understand it when people say yorkies are hard to train. Diligence and consistency are the key to housetraining ANY dog IMO. K9coach gave excellent advice and if you follow those guidelines, it will work.
Btw, I have two yorkie mixes and they were quite smart at learning to go outside to do their business. I used virtually the same methods that k9coach outlined. It is hard work, and sometimes a real PIA, especially if it's cold, snowing or raining, but well worth it in the end when you don't wake up to, or come home to stinky messes on your floors.
I don't understand it when people say yorkies are hard to train. Diligence and consistency are the key to housetraining ANY dog IMO. K9coach gave excellent advice and if you follow those guidelines, it will work.
Btw, I have two yorkie mixes and they were quite smart at learning to go outside to do their business. I used virtually the same methods that k9coach outlined. It is hard work, and sometimes a real PIA, especially if it's cold, snowing or raining, but well worth it in the end when you don't wake up to, or come home to stinky messes on your floors.
I totally agree....you only get out of a thing, what you put into it....and a dog is an investment, just like anything else.....
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crates are great
When used properly. One thing i have not seen mentioned here is to make sure the crate is the right size for your dog. It should only be large enough for your dog to turn around in comfortably. If the crate is too large the dog will go in the crate despite your best efforts and then you have a whole new set of problems. Don't leave in the crate longer than the dog could possibly hold it. If it is a small dog, take the dog out often they have small bladders and need to go more often than larger dogs. i hope this helps someone.
