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Old 04-20-2022, 07:22 AM
 
Location: The Driftless Area, WI
7,253 posts, read 5,126,001 times
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My wifi pooped out before I finished--

In regards 4WD- nice but not necessary unless you're planning on pulling a 12 bottom plow thru clay or negotiating slopes too dangerous to be negotiating in the first place. 4WD just lets you get stuck 40 ft farther into the swamp.....Chains for the rear tires are good for snow plowing, particularly for a sloped driveway.

Because you're asking, it's obvious you probably aren't planning any heavy duty farming. HP 45 +/- is more than adequate for routine chores....The old Ford N series were only ~30HP and were the work horses for most small farms for decades.
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Old 04-20-2022, 08:45 AM
 
Location: Lost in Montana *recalculating*...
19,743 posts, read 22,654,259 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guidoLaMoto View Post
My wifi pooped out before I finished--

In regards 4WD- nice but not necessary unless you're planning on pulling a 12 bottom plow thru clay or negotiating slopes too dangerous to be negotiating in the first place. 4WD just lets you get stuck 40 ft farther into the swamp.....Chains for the rear tires are good for snow plowing, particularly for a sloped driveway.

Because you're asking, it's obvious you probably aren't planning any heavy duty farming. HP 45 +/- is more than adequate for routine chores....The old Ford N series were only ~30HP and were the work horses for most small farms for decades.
Speaking from experience and having operated quite a number of tractors, both older 2wd and modern 4wd- I would only own a 4wd tractor. There is little cost difference in the scheme of things and it sure as hell makes snow work and FEL work a lot easier. I have yet to need my chains, and if I do- I only need them for the front wheels which is a HELLUVA lot cheaper than rear chains.

Heck the cost of rear ice biter chains is more than likely the same as the difference between a 2wd/4wd unit.

However if one is inclined to operate a 2wd unit of any significant size, make sure the front is fully weighted down. Negotiating slopes was a daily fact of life when I lived in WV and I've had my share of front ends lift off the ground- especially a temperamental Farmall C and a one Massey 50.

Actually after the Farmall tipped up and my wife was watching- we bought that 4wd New Holland next.

Last edited by Threerun; 04-20-2022 at 08:59 AM..
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Old 04-20-2022, 09:06 AM
 
Location: Lost in Montana *recalculating*...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRM20 View Post
The bolded is important. If you get a tractor that's too small, you will be restricted in what you can do. A friend has a 48hp Kubota. It's mostly good, but can't run a 12 foot(or larger) batwing mower, so he has to pay someone to shred his fields, or take forever with a 6 foot mower. He really needs a 100hp tractor.
I do agree to some extent on the HP, but weight of the tractor is often overlooked. If you compare say a New Holland or Green Machine and a Kubota of the same HP range, generally speaking the New Holland/Deere will weigh more. Often a lot more. Heavier frames, thicker steel- better suited for ground engaging equipment. It really depends on what you plan on doing. Kubotas are nice, don't get me wrong- not being a brand snob. If you want to run a batwing yeah- you're going to need that rear PTO HP for sure.

My old Farmall A was only 16 hp but it weighed over 3,000lbs. It was fine for ground engaging chores. It's all gears and mass. It weighed as much as my New Holland 30hp tractor-



For a long time this was the only tractor we had. We took good care of it and it did a lot of work. My son is still upset we sold it when we moved from WV to MT.
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Old 04-20-2022, 09:12 AM
 
Location: Houston/Brenham
5,819 posts, read 7,231,565 times
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Having had both, I would always get 4WD. And I'm just a casual user, with a compact to mid-size tractor.

Maybe someone using a tractor as a pure farm implement on flat land doesn't need it (I have no idea). But as someone who uses a tractor in a variety of ways, some of which I'm sure it wasn't designed for, I love having 4WD. When those rear wheels start spinning, just pull up on the 4WD handle... and off I go!
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Old 04-20-2022, 09:19 AM
 
Location: Lost in Montana *recalculating*...
19,743 posts, read 22,654,259 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astrohip View Post
Having had both, I would always get 4WD. And I'm just a casual user, with a compact to mid-size tractor.

Maybe someone using a tractor as a pure farm implement on flat land doesn't need it (I have no idea). But as someone who uses a tractor in a variety of ways, some of which I'm sure it wasn't designed for, I love having 4WD. When those rear wheels start spinning, just pull up on the 4WD handle... and off I go!
YUP!

Look ma! No chains!

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Old 04-20-2022, 09:43 AM
 
Location: The Driftless Area, WI
7,253 posts, read 5,126,001 times
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Here's my experience with a 45 y/o, 48 HP (does it still rate that at this age?) David Brown/Case used for mowing 25 ac of fallow pastures with a 6 ft mower, using a middle buster plow to sod bust a small plot of that pasture for a garden, 5ft rotor tiller for that 10,000 sq ft garden and snow plowing a 300ft drive (12% grade) with 2WD and chains for the winter-- no problems....When it snows, melts, freezes solid and then another foot and a half of snow on top of the ice on that driveway and I need to clear it with a 6ft rear blade, 4WD ain't gunna get up the hill without chains....Never had the rear wheels spin without snow/ice.

Your results may vary....

It's a good bet the OP is a hobbyist like me and will use a tractor so infrequently that he'll need to keep a battery charger handy...No sense in spending money foolishly. Amortize the cost over the number of uses in the next 10 yrs. If he's going to spend $10,000 + implements, it may be a lot cheaper to just hire somenone else to do those chores.

BTW- 4WD adds $5000 to the cost of a new tractor https://www.costowl.com/b2b/industri...tractors-cost/ Chains cost $800.
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Old 04-20-2022, 11:19 AM
 
Location: Lost in Montana *recalculating*...
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OP- Do you want a front end loader?
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Old 04-20-2022, 11:32 AM
 
Location: Lost in Montana *recalculating*...
19,743 posts, read 22,654,259 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guidoLaMoto View Post

BTW- 4WD adds $5000 to the cost of a new tractor https://www.costowl.com/b2b/industri...tractors-cost/ Chains cost $800.
I haven't looked in a while but I think all newer New Holland Boomer and Case IH Farmall series are all standard 4wd. There may no longer be a 2wd 'option'.


https://www.caseih.com/northamerica/...-a-series.aspx

Quote:
Find The Right Traction
Both models feature standard 4WD for improved traction and increased power to the ground.
I would never go back to a 2wd only utility tractor. And I've operated in snow, on hills AND on ag V bar tires and never needed chains- not here in Montana.
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Old 04-20-2022, 01:37 PM
 
13,754 posts, read 13,316,954 times
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Thanks for all of the great input!
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Old 04-20-2022, 02:32 PM
 
Location: North Carolina
715 posts, read 1,039,406 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunterseat View Post
I want a multi-use tractor to drag (if not lift) round hay bales (800-ish#), help with farm chores in general, possibly post hole digging, snow clearing, hauling junk from one area to another.

I'd rather have a later used model. Hoping attachments wouldn't be impossible for me to deal with.

Even though it is, let's say money is no object. I just want to hear thoughts & suggestions, please.

We're only on four acres, and have a sub-compact Kubota BX tractor. Too small for what you're looking for, though ours would do it's dangdest to lift 800# on a 3-point bale spear! With our front end loader on the front it probably wouldn't pop a wheelie either ;O)


Just wanted to recommend Kubota. Great machines. Ours has a 23 horsepower in-line 3 cylinder diesel engine and the thing is tough.

Definitely agree on the 4 wheel drive for a larger compact utility tractor, as well. I've been in some clay and mud and stuff with ours and between 4WD and differential lock I just haven't been able to get it into something it can't get itself Out Of.
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