What chemicals can kill a tree without harming people? (grown, concrete, input)
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Be advised that as the roots rot the ground will settle. You'll possibly need to backfill over time.
If it's a willow, those are notorious for weak wood, and while I hate the general tendency to cut down trees whenever they're a tiny bit inconvenient, a 5 story tall willow a couple feet from your house may well be the exception that does really need to go away.
If I follow you, as the roots decompose in the soil, cavities will develop. Would that weaken the building foundation?
Could you explain how to backfill the cavities and what to fill with?
From the picture, it is obvious that work has begun on limbing the tree, likely in preparation for removal, as Z described. That means that felling is not an issue, just the stump removal and prevention of water sprouts growth. Z's method is good. I might gather pine needles as mulch for the area to limit the regrowth. I've never seen a willow grow near pines.
Removing some tree branches (as shown in the photo) was unrelated to this effort. That was to allow sunlight to reach some apartments in the building behind the tree.
Good idea to use pine needles to mulch the surrounding area.
In deference to Zoisite who really knows her stuff, moisture favors the decomposing microorganisms that are doing the work. Covering it with black plastic helps retain moisture, exclude light those bugs don't like, and the warmth generated under the black plastic may also speed up the process.
Thanks for clarifying. Will need a black plastic cover then.
Thank you for the photo.
The devil is in details as they say and some recommendations must be changed regarding this particular tree.
As already pointed out - it looks like a willow tree - Latin name Salix spp.
close photos of the bark, shoots and leaves would help to confirm it. The climate of the geographical location would help too.
If it is a willow
The willows are very moisture loving, very fast growing but not very long lived trees and have a weak wood structure: it is a good idea to remove the willow completely - it is too close to the building.
Unfortunately, willow trees unlike the majority of other trees are readily sprout from the root system - the roots have advantageous buds and try to sprout numerous new plants.
Moisture will promote a new growth.
Willows generally have moderate ( and in some cases high) salt tolerance level - up to 5% of plant mass as some research determined.
The first choice still to grind the stump to oblivion and keep the area in grass as in lawn: so the new shoots which may potentially start growing could be cut when tender with the regular mowing.
The second choice if the stump has to be left for some reason - is to use herbicide - painting it on the stamp.
If allowed and exists in that country - oil based herbicide would promote deeper penetration of the herbicide into the tree roots killing it.
The deeper roots don’t need to be dug out.
Read the directions on the herbicide and follow them precisely: make sure that willow(Salix spp) is listed on the label; do not apply more then prescribed and do not apply it at the wrong time of the year.
Check what type of herbicides local authorities allow in residential environment (you didn’t mention the country)
If applied correctly according to the label - it is safe to use and won’t hurt anyone or anything.
Alternatively to the second choice - is to keep the stump dry and keep removing the sprouting shoots if any - one could just rub them off with the gloved hand when young -spring, summer and fall.
Herbicide use or not- if the stump remains then the bark surrounding the stump must be removed - it should not be too difficult - it is usually thick and corky, but separates easily if it is a newly cut down tree: it will help to keep the stump dry at first for several months - reducing or even preventing the sprouting of the shoots.
Let the stump dry out - as any moisture would promote regeneration of the tree around the stump and vicinity.
If you need help on how to fell the tree away from the building - the links with graphics below
In your case - most of the branches should be removed, the trunk cut in stages to lower levels in order to not let it damage the building accidentally
Attached is a photo showing details of the tree. Hope this would help confirm it's a willow tree.
The location is the Northeast of China. It's freezing cold in the winter but gets hot in the summer.
Previously we discussed two options of handling the stump: 1) Drill holes in the stump, use rich black soil and 100% nitrogen fertilizer to fill the holes, and cover with black plastics, so that it would rot quickly; 2) Use a stump grinder to get rid of the stump completely.
Now you suggest using oil based herbicide. It sounds like an alternative to option #1 (drilling holes and filling the holes with stuff).
I have questions regarding herbicide - We decided against using salt as "the salt migrates with the water in soil and could damage your concrete foundation eventually or other desirable vegetation" Would herbicide travel down the roots and impact the concrete foundation (similar to salt)? How about herbicide's environmental impact (to other desirable vegetation or to humans)?
By the way, thanks for sharing the articles on how to fell a tree safely!
Attached is a photo showing details of the tree. Hope this would help confirm it's a willow tree.
The location is the Northeast of China. It's freezing cold in the winter but gets hot in the summer.
Previously we discussed two options of handling the stump: 1) Drill holes in the stump, use rich black soil and 100% nitrogen fertilizer to fill the holes, and cover with black plastics, so that it would rot quickly; 2) Use a stump grinder to get rid of the stump completely.
Now you suggest using oil based herbicide. It sounds like an alternative to option #1 (drilling holes and filling the holes with stuff).
I have questions regarding herbicide - We decided against using salt as "the salt migrates with the water in soil and could damage your concrete foundation eventually or other desirable vegetation" Would herbicide travel down the roots and impact the concrete foundation (similar to salt)? How about herbicide's environmental impact (to other desirable vegetation or to humans)?
By the way, thanks for sharing the articles on how to fell a tree safely!
Just saw your reply:sorry for delay.
1. As I mentioned - the wood of the willow isn’t too hard.
Once the tree is cut down to a stump - using a simple tool - bark remover type hook or an axe - strip all the remaining above the ground bark.
You could use a chainsaw to cut the tree in tic-tac type fashion - removing most of the wood - basically destroying, splicing, chopping as much stump as possible if the stump grinder isn’t available and if you have a competent safe worker: use protection.
It could be done manually - with the saw and axe - takes longer but could be safer.
The best time to destroy the tree - is to cut it at the end of June - subjecting the remains to the heat of the summer and depriving the roots of ability to feed.
If the bark is stripped from the stump and the stump sufficiently mangled - it may not sprout any new growth.
If the stump remains still able to put out a new growth - tiny branches and green leaves - just rub them off every week - it will be easy.
Once the stump is completely dry - could take a few months of no growth? you may start using compost/soil in the drilled holes and on top of the stump with the additional nitrogen fertilizer/urine - to speed up the final decomposition like described in the earlier post
At this point you could keep the stump moist to help the microbes, fungi and insects to consume the remnants of the stump.
2) think the above should work well for you - you could even use the tree as medicinal as a final gift to the people -TCM?
I am not a fan of using herbicides- but sometimes it is a necessary evil.
The glyphosate type herbicide - does not suppose to have any soil activity as you are not spraying it around - but only brush it on the stump in sufficient quantities- read the label and follow precisely - to prevent the resprouting and damage the roots.
You don’t need to dig out the roots - eventually when they rot - you may see some depressions in the soil - just top it off with the soil to level - you may not even need to do that…
Tryclopyr could be brushed as well.
Below the link with some herbicides used in the US - which is labeled for willows - Salix spp in Latin - read under chemical control.
Please note that metsulphuron mentioned in this link is banned in China - so stick with glyphosate or triclopyr.
1. As I mentioned - the wood of the willow isn’t too hard.
Once the tree is cut down to a stump - using a simple tool - bark remover type hook or an axe - strip all the remaining above the ground bark.
You could use a chainsaw to cut the tree in tic-tac type fashion - removing most of the wood - basically destroying, splicing, chopping as much stump as possible if the stump grinder isn’t available and if you have a competent safe worker: use protection.
It could be done manually - with the saw and axe - takes longer but could be safer.
The best time to destroy the tree - is to cut it at the end of June - subjecting the remains to the heat of the summer and depriving the roots of ability to feed.
If the bark is stripped from the stump and the stump sufficiently mangled - it may not sprout any new growth.
If the stump remains still able to put out a new growth - tiny branches and green leaves - just rub them off every week - it will be easy.
Once the stump is completely dry - could take a few months of no growth? you may start using compost/soil in the drilled holes and on top of the stump with the additional nitrogen fertilizer/urine - to speed up the final decomposition like described in the earlier post
At this point you could keep the stump moist to help the microbes, fungi and insects to consume the remnants of the stump.
2) think the above should work well for you - you could even use the tree as medicinal as a final gift to the people -TCM?
I am not a fan of using herbicides- but sometimes it is a necessary evil.
The glyphosate type herbicide - does not suppose to have any soil activity as you are not spraying it around - but only brush it on the stump in sufficient quantities- read the label and follow precisely - to prevent the resprouting and damage the roots.
You don’t need to dig out the roots - eventually when they rot - you may see some depressions in the soil - just top it off with the soil to level - you may not even need to do that…
Tryclopyr could be brushed as well.
Below the link with some herbicides used in the US - which is labeled for willows - Salix spp in Latin - read under chemical control.
Please note that metsulphuron mentioned in this link is banned in China - so stick with glyphosate or triclopyr.
A large tree is about 40 feet tall. Its roots grow under a building and may damage the building foundation.
What is the easiest way to get rid of the roots of the tree?
Someone suggested cutting the tree above the ground and pouring salted water down the cut section. Hopefully the salt will kill the remaining tree with its roots. Is this a feasible solution?
So there are several ways to kill trees/tree stumps without resorting to chemicals. Safer for humans and all animals.
No need to use chemicals harmful to people or animals.
Hardly anything grows on a beach next to salty water!
Initially we discussed using salt as a natural way to kill the tree. Then someone shared his insight - "Please do not use any type of salt on your property: the salt doesn’t just disappear- even if the tree stump rotted eventually - the salt migrates with the water in soil and could damage your concrete foundation eventually or other desirable vegetation.
..."
You'll see the complete discussion for this if you go back to page 1 of this thread. For your information, the tree's roots may extend underneath a tall building close by. The purpose is to kill the tree with its roots while keeping the building foundation intact.
Last edited by LoveAlbuquerque; 03-06-2023 at 12:34 PM..
Initially we discussed using salt as a natural way to kill the tree. Then someone shared his insight - "Please do not use any type of salt on your property: the salt doesn’t just disappear- even if the tree stump rotted eventually - the salt migrates with the water in soil and could damage your concrete foundation eventually or other desirable vegetation.
..."
You'll see the complete discussion for this if you go back to page 1 of this thread. For your information, the tree's roots may extend underneath a tall building close by. The purpose is to kill the tree with its roots while keeping the building foundation intact.
That might be true if you use a dump truck full of salt. If you use less than a 20 pound bag you will be OK.
That might be true if you use a dump truck full of salt. If you use less than a 20 pound bag you will be OK.
Really, really bad advice.
Hope you realize that concrete foundation contains re-bars which hold it together.
The concrete is porous. The salt doesn’t magically evaporate. Rain, snow, underground water levels move the salt ..
Metal+ salt? Hmm.
Right now if you buy a house in some parts of CT - there is a disclosure about potential very serious foundation issues due to salt used in the mix or something like that in the 80th.
Why risk it when you could simply mechanically destroy the tree…? Or at least use a herbicide without any soil activity?
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and some recommendations must be changed regarding this particular tree.
