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It would be best to dig up a patch and take it to your county extension service. I don’t know where you are, but here in GA, our extension office takes questions like this and some of the folks are expert at recognizing weeds in turf grasses, and recommending the right solution.
The photo is still not enough to identify the weed precisely.
Usually the details of the grass blade, the crown and the roots needed.
At first look it looks like tall fescue - the forage type.
Some tall fescues are used as a lawn in cool turf grass regions. Especially the improved tall fescue types - with the low growing habit and with the more narrow leaves, medium green color..
It would be nice to identify it - so you could use a proper herbicide.
For ANY herbicide to work - one must absolutely and precisely follow the directions on the label - if you don’t want to create a horrible problem of creating a herbicide resistant plant.
The weed you are trying to remove must be listed on the label - open it up for reading; the season, the timing, the quantity of application must be followed.
Tall fescues are tolerant of a lot of herbicides - there are a few specific ones that work - but those aren’t sold at big box stores -except glyphosate.
Example:clorsulphuron, foramsulfuron, fluazifop, etc.
What I would do in your case if the infestation is not excessive - without the use of herbicide.
After rain ( or watering) wait for a soil to drain so it isn’t soggy - just moist and easy to penetrate.
Now go around with the garden fork deep - the whole length of tines - 3 inches or so away from the edges of the clump of grass in order to loosen the soil in a slightly lifting motion - but don’t lift the clump of grass until the soil is deeply loosened all around the clump.
After that - plunge the tines under the center of the clump and try to lift it all- you could try to grab the clump with your hands and lift it - roots and all.
Shake the soil off - discard the clump - let it dry out in the sun to kill the roots if you want. Pick up by hand any visible broken off roots as much as you can from the inside of the hole.
You will have a hole in your lawn now. Square the hole and even out the soil in it; tamp lightly just with your gloved hand.
In an obscure location - find a matching size square of your Bermuda lawn - and cut the same size square out - the edging showel is the best for that or you could use a large steak or other serrated knife.
Alternatively - you could cut out several smaller square patches of Bermuda grass in different locations - and accurately place into your large empty spot - water the grass and tamp it lightly by hand - for a good soil contact..
Keep an eye on your lawn repairs- if you see the same weed popping up - from the roots remnants - just remove it immediately while it is still very small
On a side note: the fact that the weeds started to appear in your lawn- means that your lawn is thin- not enough Bermuda grass - empty spots on the soil surfaces and that the lawn needs attention - enough nutrients, proper pH level, proper maintenance and cutting.
Read what your Bermuda lawn needs to thrive. Otherwise the Mother Nature will put something else which will grow better in that spot - something which you may not like - like dandelions or crabgrass, or worse, etc
My lawn is just shy of two years old and it is still trying to thicken up. I live in far NW Arkansas just South of Missouri (1/2 mile). The soil is rocky. I started treating it heavily last summer and this spring with some pre-emergent. I don't like bermuda, but I don't have much choice in my location. I have seen some tall fescue lawns and they look nice.
It actually does not spread, but I have a lot of it. I blasted them last winter with weed/grass killer, pre-emergent this spring and I put Weed Stop on it last week and it is still green.
So it's staying green with all those chemicals???? It's not a weed or a grass... It's a UGO (Unidentified Ground Object)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoisite
Yes, that's a better picture and it can be enlarged by clicking on the image.
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Or OP can copy and paste it in the message like this....
My lawn is just shy of two years old and it is still trying to thicken up. I live in far NW Arkansas just South of Missouri (1/2 mile). The soil is rocky. I started treating it heavily last summer and this spring with some pre-emergent. I don't like bermuda, but I don't have much choice in my location. I have seen some tall fescue lawns and they look nice.
Your best bet is to learn (verify that you do everything right) from the simple fact sheets regarding lawns in your area prepared by a land grant university of Arkansas
Start by measuring your lawn - as everything you read would reference the size - from the labels on the bag of seeds to the labels on fertilizers, etc.
All is applied per 1000 sq.feet. You need to know how much you need to buy.
You could even change to an improved tall fescue lawn if it is suitable and easier to maintain in your area.
Just change over one 1000 sq feet at a time -
Alternatively - see if you could reduce the size of your lawn with some other plants if you don’t really need the expanse of the grass - like different type of easy care perennials, shrubbery of different heights, Japanese type gravel gardens, patios, decking with the shade cover?, etc.
If you concentrate on native to the area plants - they could be easier to grow, but some exotic plants have their role as well.
Think first of natural hazards to your area - and install a landscape which is hazards proof/resistant.
(Don’t grow evergreens next to the house if fires are common, etc)
Depending on your zip code - find out your hardiness zone and the type of soils- are they mostly alkaline or acidic, is it clay, loam, silt or sand mostly? Or any variations of it - sandy loams?, Etc. Are the soils “salty”? How much precipitation your yard gets annually?
All of the above and more would influence which type of turf grasses will do the best and what type of grass maintenance may require.
In addition - you microclimate matters - created by the mountains or large bodies of water, urban island effects, etc
I have a jug of 41% Glyphosate that I will test on this in an area that I am not concerned about killing my bermuda grass.
Glyphosate is non-selective herbicide: please follow the directions precisely- it is the law, but most importantly - it is the correct way to do the deed.
More doesn’t mean better or more effective when it comes to herbicides.
Watch out for herbicide drift - by the wind or air moisture movement. You may do more damage to your lawn and other desirable vegetation
Maybe you could brush it on?
Once the weed is (if) killed - you have spots of uncovered soil in your lawn - now what? Mother Nature tries to keep the soil covered -the same as your skin heals a wound. What would she plant in those spots? Do you have extra patches of Bermuda or fresh seeds?
Your problem arose from the thin lawn. You could make it worse if you leave even more of the soil bare or with the dead ugly looking vegetation= same as bare soil.
Digging it and immediately covering the soil with the patches of sod could be more effective - low tech could win in this case.
Think it through - goid luck
Last edited by L00k4ward; 03-11-2023 at 09:31 PM..
Glyphosate is non-selective herbicide: please follow the directions precisely- it is the law, but most importantly - it is the correct way to do the deed.
More doesn’t mean better or more effective when it comes to herbicides.
Watch out for herbicide drift - by the wind or air moisture movement. You may do more damage to your lawn and other desirable vegetation
Maybe you could brush it on?
Once the weed is (if) killed - you have spots of uncovered soil in your lawn - now what? Mother Nature tries to keep the soil covered -the same as your skin heals a wound. What would she plant in those spots? Do you have extra patches of Bermuda or fresh seeds?
Your problem arose from the thin lawn. You could make it worse if you leave even more of the soil bare or with the dead ugly looking vegetation= same as bare soil.
Digging it and immediately covering the soil with the patches of sod could be more effective - low tech could win in this case.
Think it through - goid luck
I will be spot treating with a pressure sprayer this instead spraying the entire yard. The spot I will be trying this is a low spot that I had already planned on getting some masonry sand to raise it and then putting new sod on top. Part of my thin lawn issue is my soil is very rocky. Prior to putting down sod they put a thin layer of soil on top of the existing soil/rock. I have to walk my yard each time to look for rocks that has popped up before I mow it.
To reply to another post this could be rye grass. I don't know what was planted when they put straw and seeds down on half of my lot. Last year I put out some bermuda seeds in some spots. I want to see how it does before doing more. After moving into the house I checked about getting the other half sodded, but the cost was ridiculous at that time.
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