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Old 10-04-2008, 02:32 AM
 
Location: Sound Beach
2,160 posts, read 7,513,539 times
Reputation: 897

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Hi there...

Does anyone have one of the DIY Solar Hot Water Heaters from FAFCO??

Hot2o Solar Hot Water Heater - Do it Yourself (DIY) by FAFCO

I see they are about $2K and supposedly very easy to install. I wonder...how warm does the water get...and whats the typical usage limit before you need more than one panel. The brochure says a family of 5 may want a 2nd panel.

Just wondering if anyone can add ground truth. Thanks!!
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:52 AM
 
23,589 posts, read 70,358,767 times
Reputation: 49216
$2K for an unglazed system? No way would I buy.
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:13 AM
 
Location: The beautiful Rogue Valley, Oregon
7,785 posts, read 18,817,826 times
Reputation: 10783
We got a quote from a local supplier (Shelter Northwest) for a DIY system that includes 2 Heliodyne 4x8 flat panel solar thermal units, the heat exchanger units, pressure regulator, all the various bits to plumb, pipe and regulate it. Roughly $4,200 (including crating and shipping). Because of where we are, it has to be a glycol system and a drain-back is not the best fit.

In my state, I get state and federal tax credits, but only if I install an approved unit and have it verified. The credits work out to be around $2,500 (if I've done my calculations correctly).

If you live in the Gulf Coast area (and I assume you do), the unglazed units (usually used for pool heaters) might work. Check with your local electric utility and see what they say.
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:01 PM
 
Location: Sound Beach
2,160 posts, read 7,513,539 times
Reputation: 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea View Post
$2K for an unglazed system? No way would I buy.
They claim that unglazed is better...in that the glaze actually blocks some sunlight from reaching the cells. Not true??

Why are glazed panels better? I'm still in the learning process as you can see...thanks!!
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Old 10-04-2008, 11:04 PM
 
Location: Sound Beach
2,160 posts, read 7,513,539 times
Reputation: 897
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW-type-gal View Post
We got a quote from a local supplier (Shelter Northwest) for a DIY system that includes 2 Heliodyne 4x8 flat panel solar thermal units, the heat exchanger units, pressure regulator, all the various bits to plumb, pipe and regulate it. Roughly $4,200 (including crating and shipping). Because of where we are, it has to be a glycol system and a drain-back is not the best fit.

In my state, I get state and federal tax credits, but only if I install an approved unit and have it verified. The credits work out to be around $2,500 (if I've done my calculations correctly).

If you live in the Gulf Coast area (and I assume you do), the unglazed units (usually used for pool heaters) might work. Check with your local electric utility and see what they say.
Actually I'm on eastern Long Island. I have good exposure on half my house all day (the other half is shaded in summer). It does freeze here...but I think the drain-back takes care of that.

I think I would get 30% back...so the total cost would be something like $1300. I am just wondering if this thing is a piece of junk :-)
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Old 10-05-2008, 09:01 AM
 
Location: The beautiful Rogue Valley, Oregon
7,785 posts, read 18,817,826 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexei27 View Post
Actually I'm on eastern Long Island. I have good exposure on half my house all day (the other half is shaded in summer). It does freeze here...but I think the drain-back takes care of that.

I think I would get 30% back...so the total cost would be something like $1300. I am just wondering if this thing is a piece of junk :-)
If you are Long Island, unglazed is NOT better and will not work very well any time other than high summer. Think of it this way - you put two gallons of hot water outside in the winter, one in a plastic bucket, and one in an insulated bucket. Which stays warmer longer? Glazing = insulation.

We opted for a glycol based system because of the possibility of freezing in winter. Yes, a drain back system is supposed to drain the water completely back, but the dealer/installers we talked to had seen too many systems where water pooled, either in the collectors themselves or some part of the system and froze. Granted, those were probably older systems.

Check you local library for copies of Home Power (or go online and register to browse their articles) for a TON of info on solar thermal.
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:28 AM
 
23,589 posts, read 70,358,767 times
Reputation: 49216
"If you are Long Island, unglazed is NOT better and will not work very well any time other than high summer. Think of it this way - you put two gallons of hot water outside in the winter, one in a plastic bucket, and one in an insulated bucket. Which stays warmer longer? Glazing = insulation."

Nicely explained. The insulation is actually the layer of dead air (or gasses or vacuum depending on the collector) between the glazing and the absorbing surface.
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Old 10-05-2008, 10:07 PM
 
Location: Dayton OH
5,759 posts, read 11,358,171 times
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Imagine parking two cars in a parking lot on a cool but sunny day for one or two hours. One car has a black interior with a dark color exterior, and the windows are rolled up. The other car might also be a dark colored car but all the windows are left open and the sunroof is left open.

Which car will be the warmest when returning to get inside after one or two hours? The one with the windows rolled up, of course, and it will probably feel hot inside. The other car with all the windows down and sunroof open will feel about the same temperature as the outside air.

Answer about solar water heaters is the same principle, glazing helps hold heat in while the sun is heating the dark surface containers inside. The glazing needs to be plain clear glass, not the Low E type of glass used in most contemporary home windows (with UV reflecting film built into the glass).
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